Can anyone suggest a good master cylinder to use on my T Roadster? I have drum/drum Econoline brakes. The M/C is under the floor. I need one with no residual pressure valves, no power booster M/C, and not a Ford that you can't remove the pushrod from (I have an adjustable one already). I've tried a few different ones already.
I used a CNC brand 1" cylinder on my T roadster. The one I used just had a threaded fitting on top for a reservoir/fill line that I ran to a small reservoir that I built. Height was important to me since I didn't want it hanging down below the frame rail. CNC makes them in about 4 or more sizes. The 1" works OK with 4 wheel discs on my roadster.
You are asking the age old question "How long is a rope?" Think about it, you have huge variables that you DONT ****ING KNOW. What are the wheel cylinder bores on your car, front and rear? Without that, you are ******* in the wind my friend. Dont tell us what you THINK they came off of, tell us what the BORE SIZES are!!!!!! It does make a difference.
how bout a 1940 mc with a 39 pedal ***embly?? Very compact and self contained, inexpensive, and nostalgic. That's what i"m using. Use good rubber lines and have a ebrake for backup since this is a single chamber design.
Wrong, need to know what he is using. Go to the doctor and say your arm hurts? Dont think he needs details. Huge mistake lots of guys make, ElPolacko and I drink ourselves silly over these posts!
Even tho the Pinto was disc/drum I have been using it drum/drum for 12 years on my 35 and 39 Ford pickups,. What problem do you have?
The Ford M/C is a viable candidate. If you buy it rebuilt or new, the pushrod is lying in the box and separate. If you get a junkyard M/C and rebuild it - you should for sure - you can destroy the old piston if necessary to get the pushrod out. Fwiw - I've pulled them apart by gripping the M/C in a vise (use hard wood blocks for pads) and giving the pushrod a yank. You may have to use a tool to apply sufficient leverage, but when enough force is applied the little flat triangular spring will collapse inward and allow the pushrod to slide free. When you mock up the M/C don't install the retaining spring until final ***embly.
Tman: Lighten up; I thought we were friends after the Cl***ic Auto mess ( I got my refund) Any way I'm running a '46 Ford pickup open drive rear end with STEP BORE wheel cylinders and '66 Econoline front wheel cylinders. I can do the volume needed math and just about anyone will work that's bigger that is bigger than 7/8 bore. It just seems there is a draw-back to everyone I think aabout using. (Like The Ford Pushrod problem) I'm sure we'll figure something out. Oh: You Tub looks great. Cool ride. Butch
I'm running a m/c out of a 64 mustang in my 27 T it's everything you need. Autozone has them for like 35 bucks Jake
No worries, I just hate misinformation being p***ed on. Simply saying say."Grenada" can get you sveral different specs. Your Econoline was a 1" Bore MC with 1 1/8" wheel cylinders in the front The old Ford Truck was 1 1/16" MC with 1 1/8" Wheel cylinders in the rear A master cylinder Wagner #F64885 which is 1" is a good baseline to start. It is one of several that GM used on the C-10 pickups in the late 60s in a non-power application. Coincidentally, both my 54 Chevy and my T ended up with the same parts in them as far as wheel cylinder bore sizes. That Master cylinder was a perfect match for both cars. Thanks for the kudos on my Touring.
Thanks: Tman: You always come through for us oldtimers. I'm just getting frustrated with all of this RUN DISC BRAKES stuff. I grew up with what they call nostalgia now. Want to show people how it use to be and you don't need $25,000 for a T to be built right.
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