shortening an AV8 drive line

I am in the process of building an AV8, I just finished the front end and now it is time to tackle the rear. I have a 33/34 torq tube and drive line, I planned on using a 48-4684 6X10 spline adapter by turning down the 10 end to fit into the hollow drive line. It seems as that adapter is in very short supply in this area, so I was wondering if some of you older HAMBers have amother way to skin the cat. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, cobbie61

 

I thought Mac's or someone like that sold new ones?

If you can't find one, and you can find a machine shop that can cut & re spline a '46 thru '48 solid continuous diameter driveshaft, you can do it that way too or have the driveshaft cut, shortened, welded & balanced. You'd just have to find the driveshaft which should be easy. I had one re splined at Schroeder's in Burbank, CA.

You could probably sell that '34 driveshaft for the same amount it would cost to have a driveshaft shop shorten one. I had one shortened and balanced here in Denver for about $140 and I just used a 6 spline adapter.

 

I'm also in process with an AV8, using a later banjo 37-40. I know the early V8 rears are still similar to model A, small bells and banjo case. And as you've found 10 spline. later rears 35-48 can handle more from a hopped up flathead. From what I hear you should really just leave the 32-34 banjo's to the restorers, being what they can handle. You still have to open it up right? Change bearings and races, and well I'm in there I'm going after some 3.54 gears. With the drive shaft to be cut down there are threads out there on cutting it, but if you can find a shop that can make a new one for you that would insure that its straight. Also more banjo info..
http://www.flatheadv8.org/fordrear.htm

 

I used the whole 37 driveline & frontend 3.78 gears. After bare block & case were where they needed to be & rearend mounted where it needed to be tube was shortened to fill the gap. Make note of how far out the driveshaft is from the end of the bell, recall it's 3/8". That gives you the new overall shaft leingth. Mine was about 18" shorter, shortened the solid shaft and machinist figured I need no center bearing. I made a jig with roller bearings for the ends to roll in while I welded the middle to be able to turn the shaft to check for straight. Worked good, It is smooth & quiet up to 70

 

I think the 34 shafts are a hollow tube about 1 5/8" or so. I did the exact same thing you want to do a few years ago. I turned down the end of a 6 spline end from a 36 driveshaft so it slid into the 34 tube. I dropped it off at Machine Service and they welded it true and balanced it for 45 bucks.

Rob

 

I think the 34 shafts are a hollow tube about 1 5/8" or so. I did the exact same thing you want to do a few years ago. I turned down the end of a 6 spline end from a 36 driveshaft so it slid into the 34 tube. I dropped it off at Machine Service and they welded it true and balanced it for 45 bucks. Once the drive shaft is pinned to the rear I slid the cut torque tube on and welded it up using the front bearing to center it.

Rob

 

Re-cutting the splines is really pretty easy. If ya' need help, drop me a PM

Pat

 

thanks, guys but I did not mention that I had a 33/34 rear end Just the drive shaft and torq tube. I am using all 40 running gear. thanks everyone.