Projects 41 plymouth coupe 392 hemi build thread

Cool Looking Car, Can't Wait To See Progress. If I Ever Do Another Build That's The One.

 

Thanks for the comments guys.

 

Thanks guy's for the correction.

 

I won't forget Rich!

 

Gary, let me know what kind of rum you're drinking, I'll then have some and maybe then I'll understand your answer. By "link" I presume the rod end bearing and by "knuckles" you probably mean the uh uh uh......coupling thingies?

 

Ivemstill got this to do and I'm scratching my head every now and then. Glad to see you solution.

 

I'm not sure how much clearance you have Rock, but for me the routing of the steering was more or less pre-determined by the shape of the chassis and the position of the headers. I've found that by using quality linkages/couplings/bearings/ etc, it probably made the job easier. There's just a bit of time involved in getting the correct angles and length of the rods. I'm sure you'll manage!

 

From the pics, I don't think you'll require another rod end bearing. Maybe throw the wheels back on and try to see if there's any unwanted movement with the linkage. Just a thought. Looking good Eric.

 

I've taken your advise and mounted the wheels. The rear of the car is still on jack stands and lifting the back of the car slightly. This created a little more weight on the front wheels, compensating for the lack of hood/grill/fenders.

Movement of the steering went without any problems, as smooth as can be. (even though the rod end bearing is held in place by a clamp)

 

glad to hear everything works smooth. I need to get double d shaft for my 40 now that I finally got the right joint for my power steering box. I have to mount my steering column solidly though before I attempt to do the measuring for the lengths of the shaft.

 

Yep, that is what I was sayin'

 

Looks like the frame will be ready soon for the next phase.I dont remember what was your decision,paint or powdercoating?

 

You're right. It all starts with positioning your steering column in the desired place and then the fun can begin. And remember, measure 7 times and cut once.

 

The frame will hopefully be ready for powdercoating early next year. At the moment I'm still working on the doors, then its on to the deck lid. After that I'll need to drill all the holes in the frame for my brake and air lines. So I'm not there yet, but hope to get a lot done in the next month or two.

 

Eric glad to hear there is no binding! Keep on keeping on.

For what it is worth when doing the steering linkage I use 3/4" wood dowling and keep a few 3/4" round bore u-joints on hand. The dowl is easy to cut, fits well in the joint and cost a bunch less then the shaft does, especially if you get into the "I cut it off twice and it's still too short" brain fart mode of operation.....

 

Thanks Bill. The luck I had was that the position of the center u-joint was more or less pre-determined, so I was left with a 12" shaft of which I ended up using less than 6" for between the center and drive shaft joint. It all just takes careful measuring and patience.

 

Powdercoating is a good choice,just remember to screw bolts to every holes that has a threads on the frame,that way the threads will be protected from the powder coating.I've done that with my shovelheads frame when powdercoating it and its been a really good trick.

 

Can't I just re-thread the holes after powdercoating? The frame will first be sand blasted, dumped in a bath of zinc, followed by powdercoating. So I'm not sure if I have a chance to screw the bolts in there during this process......

 

I've never zinc bathed anything,just sandblasting and then taken the parts to powdercoating.But that zinc bath doesnt sound a stupid idea..
Well,i guess you can ask the powdercoater to screw the bolts before powdercoating,if he is willing to or ask his opinion about this.My powdercoater suggested this yrs ago and i think he was right.The powdercoating is real hell with the threads.

 

Thanks for the advise. I'll ask him to put the bolts in there. With regards to the zinc, this will also be done inside the frame. That's why I've drilled quite a few holes in the chassis so the zinc can enter and air can escape.

 

Yes!! Finally got the bottom of the door done. I know......took your time. Back in the garage again tomorrow to attack the inside trim and get that into a chopped shape. Should be another challenge.

 

turned out real well.

 

My powdercoater just uses plugs in the bolt holes so they stay clean.

 

Just tell the powercoater to " Mask the threads". We do a lot of it at work and that's the term that they use.

 

Thank you. I know a few people out there may be scratching their heads as to why I would spend so much time on the bottom of a door. I still live by "do it once and do it good" and I'm sticking by it!

 

I learned from my dad that if you don't have the time or will to do it right the first time what makes you think you will have it when you need to do it the second time.

I understand, my 48 Ford half ton had the frame body worked to slick as the top, got it done and set the cab and bed on and the wife asked "why did you spend so much time on that when no one will ever see it?" and my answer was and always will be "I know it is there, I know it is right and I want it better then the next guy would".

Keep on keeping on....

 

Years ago when I helped my son build his 55 Chev pu I put a sign in the shop "Why do I never have time to do it right but I always have time to do it over".
Terry

 

Bill and Terry, you both are correct. I like the way you guys think!

 

Thanks for the advise gentlemen, it's appreciated!

 

awesome coupe man! epic chop and a killer hemi to boot