First let me start by saying this is one of the most awesome sites Ive ever seen! I was lurking for about a year and joined a few weeks ago. VISIONS/INSPIRATIONS: I want to build a fender-less open tub/phaeton/touring hot rod. I love the look of traditional (rat) rods and would keep mine with either the natural rust/green patina or possibly paint it Rustoleum matte black. I saw a really cool looking tub on the web at http://www.greasemonk.com/slamchop and it is one my design inspirations. PARTS COLLECTION: I had been collecting a few 1929 Model A parts for about a year in hopes of keeping it cheap, but didnt realize what a big deal trying to register a pile of parts would be in California. I recently lucked out on eBay and got myself a 1929 Murray 4-Door sedan (actually, a complete body shell with a clear title). I also have a front and rear Model A cross-member. I also have a Model A 4-banger (unknown internal condition) and a tranny. I also have a 1932 (as told to me by the seller) stock front axle, spring, and split wishbones. DONOR CAR: I have a 1972 Ford F250 with a crummy body and cracked frame, but great engine (freshly rebuilt 390 with forged pistons and solid lifter cam). Dana 60 rear with 3:73 gears and 8-lug wheels. THE PLAN SO FAR: For the frame Id like to use 2x4 steel tube and base it loosely on a stock Model A frame, although with a kink in it right the firewall. Id like to use the 390, C6, and Dana 60 from the donor truck. (Although the Dana rear-end may be too big for this car.) I love the look of chopped cars and wouldnt mind doing that, but Im 64 and need clearance for my balding head. Also, I really, really love open cars -- Ive removed the roofs of a 1977 Chev wagon, a 1983 Rabbit GTI, and a 1988 Corolla two of these cars I actually drove for quite a while. Anyway, Im really leaning towards making it an open tub. THE BIGGEST PROBLEM: The main difficulty Im having is what to do about the missing floor and structure. Ill try to post some pictures. There is rust, but its really not bad enough to eat away all of the sub-frame. This car must have been almost all wood, including where the sub-rails should be. My question is what is the best way to handle this? Do I fabricate sub-rails from scratch? I can do simple things with a MIG and 1-inch tube, but beyond that would be a stretch. Can I use repro sub-rails from a Tudor? Thanks in advance for the help.
You dont need no stinkin floor.Most of a fordor is wood.Just use 1 inch box tubing and bild your own sub floor. here is some pics of my truck i am building with a fordor cowl and sedan parts.If you build you a your own frame work you can channel or section any way you like.Also built my frame from Model A dimensions out of book called building a chassis by Tex Smith.heres a pic of the frame which I built.At first I used fact cross member but it did not work out with spring combo and as low as I wanted car. Frame was built then kick up was put in later as this kept everything square. Later shoe
[I have a 29 murray 4 door, I bought mine w/complete running gear, the body is all there, but the wood is mostly shot. we plan on a chop and channel over the kicked, z'd and boxed stock frame. I am over 6' tall and my wife is no shrimp either so we plan on pushing the seat way back and using the rear area for gas tank, battery, cooler, etc. as of this very moment we are planning on hopping up the 4 banger, but things chaaaaaange sometimes. I don't see many 4 doors around, 2 drs are much more popular. will mine be the only Taxi to paradise?
Pretty funky design, isn't it? Looks like a 30/31, but is truly a '29. Cowl top and sides are all one piece of sheetmetal, with the '29-style gas tank bolted *under* the cowl sheetmetal. Yah, I'm tempted to use my 4-banger, too. Those things look pretty cool. But I have this Ford FE 390 (+.040 over) screaming to get into a lighter car. How much chop/channel are you planning?
[QUOTE='29MurrayTub]Wow! Excellent floor pics! Thanks! Do the doors work, or did you weld them shut? BTW, cool truck![/QUOTE] Yes the doors work I framed them as well and hammered and dollied the tops to make them into roadster doors.
After you have the car on a frame I'd just make a floor out of some decent gauge sheet aluminum. At least in the toeboard area. You might have to make some angle iron pieces undernieth for support. I wouldn't use the killer truck rear, but you might be able to sell it to someone with a 4x4 or just trade for something else. Traditional and rat rods are two different things. Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Car was sold a couple of years ago. I was moving (actually moved twice) and it was too hard to move. And name '29MurrayTub was changed to real name.
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