What is the best/cheapest way to install a Auto Meter inline transmission temp gauge. Auto Meter wants $42.00 for their #2286 3/8" transmission temperature gauge inline manifold to the radiator inlet? Shipping/handling is $9.95 + $42.00 = $52.00. I already have a braand new Auto Meter transmission temperature gauge. I'm way over budget on this avatar.
Your response is a bit ambiguous. Are you suggesting welding a bung on the trans pan? And, then running a sender from it? My 302 has a AOD behind it without a drain plug.
I did mine by adding a "T" in the cooling line, had to add a ****** to fit the sender. Still cost 20+ $ for the fittings.
The most accurate place for a ****** temp sender is the pan. If you have an aluminum pan, drill it and tap it! If not then there are a few things on the market to make it, quick, easy and painless. Or weld a bung on it.
I just bought a BM trans pan for my 518 Mopar trans.It has a fitting in the pan for a trans temp sender.Derale also has inline sender fittings you can buy.
What are you going to with the info from the gauge? The fluid temp will scare the he'll out of you. 290 to 350 degrees is normal. If you have a high stall converter, it goes even higher. Sometimes it is bet not to know, ignorance is bliss.
If you run temps that high on a regular basis you will destroy the clutches. 250° should be the max for short intervals...that is why you NEED a gauge and that is why we have trans oil coolers. .
I installed a Bowtie Overdrive (BTO) Level II 200 4R/ 2200 stall convertor, 3.42 posi, alum radiator, in my other car (see album). BTO recommends 160 degrees as an ideal operating temperature. Their trans pan came with a threaded hole for a temp gauge. On a 105 degree day, at 70 mph, the trans fluid can get as high as 175 degrees in the pan. Maybe I'll take off the avatar's trans pan and weld a bung in, and while I'm at it, a drain plug. 73RR, I have a copy of the Transmission Exchange's chart stapled to my garage wall to scare the hell out of me, so I make sure to install a trans temp gauge .
Drain plug is a must. Apparently you and I are the only ones who can't afford an early trans rebuild... .
nonsense.an auto trans with temps like that could even flame.ignorance is not bliss,its in some cases a $4000.00 repair bill.a properly cooled trans is from 150 to 200 degrees, 250 max for short periods.any hotter,find the problem and remedy it.
cyberus,the higher stall causes the higher temp.a tranns can run 175 all day long and live for years.i have been in this car stuff for over 45 years and have found that alot of (well meaning perhaps)people just do not know what they are talking about period!you're trans is fine,
Best place to install the temp sensor is in return line from cooler back to the transmission per Phoenix Transmission Products http://www.phoenixtrans.com/ Regards, X
hat may be their recommendation, but I respectfully disagree. While it may be nice to know how cool the returning fluid is, the real important info is how hot is the transmission getting...and that is best determined by either the pan fluid temp or the EXITING fluid temp. Ideally one would know both the exiting fluid temp and the returning fluid temp to verify the cooler is doing it's job. However, knowing that the operating temp is too high tells you the cooler is inadequate and improvements are needed. Conversely, if the temp is in the desired range, the cooler is sufficient. Ray
B&M also recommends placing the temp sensor in the return line in their installation instructions for their gauges and sensors. http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Co...Transmission-temperature-gauge-kit-white-face .. then see "installation instruction .PDF" I'll go with the experts Regards, X
IIRC, some transmissions have a pressure test port you can put the sensor in, but that may be GM only.
so, you are ***uming I am not!!!! I understand your position, and I should have hedged in my reply a bit.....just saying what seems logical to me and why. Perhaps it depends on WHAT temperature is recommended and WHERE it is being monitored. Is the chart in the previous post referring to pan temps or return line temps? ? This is one of those "when all else fails, read the instructions" moments ! Ray MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL !
I put mine in the pan, 283/ glide with 12 qt and harrison cooler, never got hotter than the water. Later did the same thing with stock pan and no cooler, still never got hotter than the water?
Heck... I only know what they tell me... I'm certainly no expert. My opinion is that you could probably put the sensor in any of the locations mentioned, and that by watching for any significant change from a normal reading so as to alert you that something might be wrong. Merry Christmas! Regards, X
Many do have a pressure test port, but I am not sure I would put the temperature sensor there. Seeing how dainty many of them are, I am not sure that they would handle the pressure delivered at that port. It could end up ugly.
Thats how I did mine in my old Camaro. Took about 15 minutes and 15 bucks worth of fittings from the local hardware store.
hnstray.the very reason you put it in the return cooling line is you want to know exactly how hot/cool the fluid is going back in.this fluid moves fairly fast.not like jello.in the pan (NOT).the cool fluid is pouring in on the senser.hot feed (NOT) the fluid needs to quickly get from trans,to cooler to back to trans to keep everything cool period.even the manufacturers who designed them have spent tons of hours under all kinds of lab and real world conditions.you could put a gauge in both lines.waste of money/piece of mind just my 2 cents.they make them,follow their directions.
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