Projects Got the parts....why not build a speedster?

Pardon the Hijack but your post caught my eye. Never heard of this and Google came up empty. Care to share.

Now back to our previously scheduled programing

 

Yeah, were still planning out the inaugural run. Sounds like it could be pretty cool though eh?

 

It is a bit of an inside joke between one guy daydreaming about building a speedster, and one guy actually putting one together.

The Tug Hill Plateau which is neither a hill or a plateau, is a geographic area of Upstate NY north of the Mohawk river and west of the Adirondacks. It is best known for snow, lumber, and the people who can tolerate one and work the other.

The area is riddled with lumber company unpaved haul roads, that usually go into the woods but not through or out. So the area needs to be cir***navigated to get any where by vehicle (except snomobile, ATV or Jeep). The cl***ic, Well it's just over the hill but you can't get there from here, kind of place.

So the thought of a group of spindly speedsters setting out on a chase around the Tug is at this time a rhetorical reference for a wild goose chase. But if The Great Tug Hill Speedster Runs does ever materialize, you will here about it here.....

However it may have a precursor in the form of the Great Tug Hill Reliability Run, for pre 1960 vehicles, if we could ever drum up enough interest a**** NY Hambers.

 

As a quad and dual sport bike rider I am familiar with Tug Hill, which is why I was surprised to not know about a Tug Hill Speedster event. Create it and we will be there!

 

I'm LOVING this!!! Subscribed!

 

YUP !!!! Me too

 

What's the plan for the body? Bugatti style "boat tail" type deal?? Sketches?? Great project!! I've been putting aside a few items to do this very thing as well!

 

I'm curious to see how you tackle the mechanical brakes. It shouldn't be very difficult to find a stock model A brake cross shaft and then work from there. I've got a stash of parts that I've been collecting for a similar project. Thanks for posting your progress.

-Mitch

 

How much travel is there in the brake actuating levers at the wheels??? Reason I ask is gonna be wierd. Could you take the front wheel cylinders like ar on the front of your desoto, and build attachments for them at each wheel to actuate the levers hydraulicaly? As you remember they are single ended single action cylinders, and with 4 of them you could actuate the brakes by mounting them externally and connecting them to the brake levers. then plumbing them up to a MC.

 

This is the end goal.

I'm starting to plan out the body now. I called my metal supplier and got a quote on some .050 Aluminum, I believe its 5052 aluminum. 4x8 runs about $60, 4x12 goes for $98. Also I have to go to the lumber yard and get some plywood for the buck and hammer forming panels. Once I get my body mounts made up I can start that whole process. I'm doing the mounts now, slow day at the shop.

 

I have the rear brake rods, and I have a cross shaft. Now its just a matter of figuring out what goes where. Between the top and bottom rods im not sure which does which. One rod works the service brakes, the other is the parking brake. Once I get that cross shaft mounted I will have to make up a rod to connect the pedal to the shaft. I don't forsee running any front brakes. Mainly because I don't have any of the parts and Im a cheap *******.

 

With that much shape I would consider 3003-h14 instead of the 5052. You can do it though. Just a little harder to work. 3003 is a little bit more expensive, but will be a little bit easier to work with the same results as the 5052 in the end.

Great project!!

 

Me thinks that this idea has merit!

 

Thanks for the tip, I only decided on 5052 because thats what someone else reccomended. Like stated previously, this is my first attempt at light guage aluminum. I can weld the thicker stuff all day long.

 

Just slightly OT, how's this for inspiration? Reminds me of your trophy topper shot. Anyone remember these wind-up toys by Schuco? I believe they still make some of them. Gary

 

Yeah, it's still good stuff and the price is just a tad better than the 3003. Since your project isn't that large (physically), I would consider spending the little bit more for the 3003. In the end, the price compared to everything else you're doing will be a wash.

Keep us posted!

 

Yeah, I'm not gonna nickle and dime myself on materials. Especially when it comes to time saving material. My one concern about using the 3003 is it may be too soft, after this body is all said and done I do intend to beat the **** out of this car. I'm worried that it won't be able to handle the dings and dents as well as say 5052...

 

I'm diggin that middle pic. The "trophy topper shot" is actually the Monopoly car.

 

This one keeps me awake at night.

 

That there is one of my all time favorite cars. Perfect proportions.......

I love this build, can't wait to see the body come together......

 

Right after I made this comment it was like all hell broke loose at the shop. The phone was ringing off the hook. A customer walked in that I haven't seen for years. I had to go pick up the shop truck from the mechanic...

I got two mounts made up. Im thinking i'll only need 4 more, maybe 3. Im not sure.

I did go to Lowes and bought a 4x8x3/4 medium density particle board to use as hammer form panels, and hopefully I'll have enough left to use as a buck.

 

Scooter, I was planning on using 18ga. sheets, or .050. Do you think thats a good idea, or should I try and get .060? Also, does the 3003 H-14 need to be annealed if I was to TIG weld it? Seems I read somewhere certain materials do not need annealing.

 

I'll be watching this one.. I love speedsters. The JAP speedster is good inspiration. I also love the ****** Mary modified as well, wood frame and all.


iPhone - TJJ app

 

Building this for a customer! He brought me a driveline, frame, firewall and dash. I had to build the rest. Speedsters rule!

 

Awesome. What happened with the mechanical brake parts? I could probably use them

I noticed your from NY too, where abouts? I'm in the Rome area.

 

skin neck ***ty

 

I went to the metal supply today and picked up a sheet of 3003 H14 aluminum .050 thickness. Seems like pretty good stuff to work with. I cut out the pattern for my firewall, roudered the edges, and hammered out the firewall. I didn't have my camera, so no pics today. Will post tomorrow.

I really need to learn how to anneal this stuff.

 

Heres where I'm at on my firewall.
I cut the particle board out, and used a rouder to round the outer edge, then cut out the tunnel area and again used the rouder this time with a 45degree bit.

Then I cut the aluminum an inch wider on each side than the hammer form. That was stupid, I should have stayed about only a half inch over. I hammered the outer edge using a rubber mallet and a large flat body hammer. The outer edges look like **** because I left too much material on. I learned my lesson though, for the tunnel I only went the half inch, it came out perfect.


Here it is sitting on the ch***is "somewhat" where it belongs. I still have to go back and put some beads on it for general aesthetics and strength.



Sorry about the poor quality pictures. This is my first time using the new camera I got for christmas. Hooefully I'll figure it out soon.

 

lookin good Joe!

 

I just realized that I may have made the firewall too narrow. Looks like I am going to have to cut the pad off my clutch pedal and rotate it 90degrees, and still wear some "skinny shoes" Chuck Taylors should do the trick.

I layed the firewall out so it would be flush with the outside of the frame, then after sitting on some blocks where the seat would go I realized "****, this aint happening" going to be a tight squeeze with 2 people in there. I may stagger the seats a bit. I also have to go back and cut off 2 bodymounts that I allready welded solid on the frame. I must not have been thinking clearly because I welded them on the outside of the frame rail when they were suppose to be inside. I swear its like I have dimensia lately...