I recently picked up a 32 roadster project with an original 32 trans / rear setup. I am going to convert to hydraulic brakes, but not sure about the 32 trans - can that be used with the 8ba stock flathead. , I am not that familiar with the 32 trans and rear, I used a 39 trans and 41 rear in my model A project few years ago. Is the 32 a crash box like a model a trans? What about the rear end.? Should I be concerned about that? Thanks for the input
if it's any consolation to you, this deuce roadster belongs to a friend of mine. It has a real Corvette 283 with 2x4 carbs, a stock '32 ******, and a stock '32 rear axle. It still has the original mechanical brakes also. I've driven this car and it runs like stink and even stops great.
It will bolt up as long as you use the small pressure plate. It does have the straight cut gear teeth, so speed shifting will be nil. And strength of the trans and rearend has been argued on the HAMB before. All in all, the 39/41 stuff is a step up, but not really that far up. Give the 32 stuff a try and see if you can stand them. If not, upgrade.
When you say small pressure plate - which one should I look for , I have the 8ba setup that camewiththe motor. Thanks for the input
You can use the stock 8ba flywheel and a pre-48 pressure plate and clutch disc, 9" or 10" will work. Stay away from the 11". You need to have your stock 8ba flywheel redrilled for the pre-48 pressure plate. Had mine done for about $30, this is the easiest way to accomplish what you're after. Oh and I bought my pressure plate and clutch disc from NAPA.
Thanks for the input, tried searching for posts on the strength of the 32 trans and rear. Any comments?
First of all ... your '32 transmission is worth a few more bucks to somebody who wants an original '32, it that's what it is. If it is not important to you, a later transmission would make more sense money-wise. The '32 has synchros in 2nd and 3rd like the '39, BUT the synchros are a different design and not as strong. So, a set of '39 or later gears would make more sense driving-wise. The rear should be fine.
Really your first consideration, being unfamiliar with the Deuce transmission, is to learn if the parts are model B or model 18. Ron
So V8. Case is generally same as all others, so you can convert to later '39-48 gears if it is necessary. You are of course getting the somewhat rare deuce clutch lever and the right mount, plus most likely the car's original serial number... Main case differences from '35 up are the taper at front of bellhousing, which can cause minor (grind the affected bosses inside) clearance issues with 10 and 11 " clutches and a little less room under the big gear on cluster, which sometimes requires minor clearancing or just altered order of parts installation with some ge****ts. The other case difs are only of interest to restorers... Synchros are less sophisticated than '40 up types, presumably slower shifting, but I doubt they are weaker. Low and reverse are straightcut, noisier and theoretically stronger...as with any early Ford trans, what is inside may no longer match original after 80 years of rodders. Any major upgrading requires one of the later shift tops. How to ID and date case, then ID and date innards: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91515&highlight=39+trans+prices&showall=1
So V8. Case is generally same as all others, so you can convert to later '39-48 gears if it is necessary. You are of course getting the somewhat rare deuce clutch lever and the right mount, plus most likely the car's original serial number... Main case differences from '35 up are the taper at front of bellhousing, which can cause minor (grind the affected bosses inside) clearance issues with 10 and 11 " clutches and a little less room under the big gear on cluster, which sometimes requires minor clearancing or just altered order of parts installation with some ge****ts. The other case difs are only of interest to restorers... Synchros are less sophisticated than '40 up types, presumably slower shifting, but I doubt they are weaker. Low and reverse are straightcut, noisier and theoretically stronger...as with any early Ford trans, what is inside may no longer match original after 80 years of rodders. Any major upgrading requires one of the later shift tops. How to ID and date case, then ID and date innards: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91515&highlight=39+trans+prices&showall=1
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