I am sure this has all been covered before but i can"t find a definite answer. I am building a 31 Model A coupe and I do not want to Z the frame in the rear unless I have to, I do not want an in the dirt car I am trying to end up with the rear tires following the curve from the fender opening, can i achieve this look with just a dropped spring or will i have to Z the frame
Well I would Z the frame if you are going to change the drive train . If not you will be making a big mistake ! The frame will not be able to take all the abuse a different drive train with a bigger engine and a lot more torque and HP . It's your ride but just don't take anyone you love with you in that thing . Look just do it the right way the first time and either Z the frame or box it . It's just pure safety that you need to keep in mind . Just my opinion ! Retro Jim
Well that's one way to 'bump' it to the top; just noticed this post/question. You don't have to 'Z' the frame; depending on what rear end you're going to run, you can go with the original Model A rear cross member, w/or w/out reversed eye Model A spring and maybe take one or two leaves out, or use a T spring which should lower it a little, or fabricate a straight cross member and go another route. I've always preferred the stock 'A' cross member and spring; what else I do to the spring or what shocks I use depends on the diameter of tire I'm going to run. I pretty much like the same 'visual' distance between the tire and fender throughout most of the 'arc,' and keeping the tread area itself just under the fender to keep rock/mud damage to a minimum. Just read Retro Jim's post; I personally go with boxing the frame if I'm running anything with any substantial horsepower.
One other thing I would do to help with strengthening the frame is use either a modified '32 center 'K' member (kinda pricey) or an 'X' member. Dagel's makes an 'X' member that I've used that is reasonably priced and easy to install along with boxing plates.
I've been looking at Dagels boxing plates and X member and I most likely will go that route, I agree with you about the tire and wheel well opening, thats exactly what I want to end up with. I had a guy tell me once that he used a model a front spring in the rear but no one else has ever heard of this trick
It all depends on how you set the rear suspension up. If you go with a spring behind you can probably get close with out a Z, but I'm not sure you can really get the tire that high up on the body without a notch anyways. My coupe is close to where you want but with a small Z and I'm not sure if I loaded the suspension it would get there without the rear hitting the frame as I only have a few inches of travel now. As for the spring I've never heard of a front spring, but using a model T spring will lower the rear a few inches. I have played around with my spring pack a few times to get a comprimise of ride height and stiffness that works best for me. You can see pictures of my coupe on my profile to get an idea of my ride height on the rear with 31" tire
Sorry if this was out of line, I have gotten several PMs since I posted this thread and I sincerely meant to thank them all for their info, not to come off looking like a giant douche bag, I have also gotten a couple that were very specific about my reply. I really have to think these things thru before i post. Have a safe and happy new year everyone Joe M.
Hey Russco. That is one beautiful coupe, it looks like mine will work out perfect then since i have channeled it three inches already it should put the tire right where i want it. Thank you Joe M
That is the biggest problem with the internet, sometimes the typed words come out with a different meaning than we intended, and you aren't looking directly at the person to know exactly what he meant. Glad you cleared that up, I was thinking you were impatient. Don
tricks to texting and posting on the internet. add a smiley face and no one can assume you are being an ass hole
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