Scat balanced Stroker Kit for Flat Head Has anybody actually used one?

Im wanting to buy a Scat stroker kit the one with Scat H beam rods and Ross pistons but before I pull the trigger on this I'm wondering if anybody here has actually used one and what size? Were there any Balance issues? They are allegedly balanced already. Were there any clearance issues with the block (8BA) or piston dome to head issues? I was hoping to pretty much buy one and install it without a bunch of additional machine work other than boring (Clearancing, balancing ETC... So I'm looking for some real world first hand reviews of this kit. Thanks in advance Mike

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1939-1953-Flathead-Rotating-Assemblies,5401.html

 

Mike, my club brother kwmpa (Kevin) used the big 304ci one in a 59AB, hasn't fired the engine yet but I think he said the machine shop had to rebalance the entire assembly... send him a pm maybe?

 

I am also curious.

 

Russco, I am not sure how good of a relationship with your machine shop you have, but I can honestly say that one of my best friends owns a machine shop, and he does all my work. I have had him do several engines, and my next planned build is a stroker, but not a flattie. He told me, even when one of these companies offer something as balanced, he rebalances it because they never include specs as to what bob weight they used. He is the one who the engine comes back too if something breaks, so he plays a game of CYA. With that said, if your machinist has done flattie work, he should be able to tell you the limit of stroke before clearancing is required, and I was actually told that I could do my own clearancing for my stroker if I wanted to. Clearancing is not a critical measurement except, there is a fine balance between taking enough material out, and not taking too much. Even SCAT would be able to tell you the stroke limit without block work if you ask them. I would also mention that my machinist told me he has never had a balanced rotating assembly come in from any of the manufacturers that wasn't a little off, but he suggested I go with Ohio Crankshaft for my rotating assembly. Just another supplier to think of...JMO

 

I've read posts on other web sites (ford barn & flathead 32 to 53) that the scat cranks are not without balance problems. You might go to those sites and check further before making such an expensive purchase.

 

Balancing, or rebalancing is not really a big deal, it takes a little bit of time. Any qualified shop can balance a rotating assembly no matter where you buy it. You just need to make the concious decision wether to buy it as balanced and live with it, buy it as balanced and have your shop check/rebalance it, or, if it is an option, buy it as unbalanced and have your shop balance it while handling your clearancing and other machine work. I personally trust my shop, and they would rebalance it if it wasn't right when it got to them.

 

Thanks for the replies. I have a thread on Ford Barn now but so far no one there has first hand use of the entire balanced kit. I was aware of balance issues with the Scat crank and stock rods. I was hoping to just be able to have the block bored and install this assembly and get the car back together asap. I have a decent machine shop but they are pretty busy right now and about an hour away from me.

 

We ran the Scat balanced kit in our Bonneville car. We set three records with the 304 ci kit. Did not have to clearance any on the block. I did spend some extra and had the pistons and the bearings coated with some Teflon like stuff. I am not a perfectionist (to say the least). I believe in getting stuff done and if it doesn't work redo it. That said, I would probably get the rotating assembley re-balanced before I use it again. Phil

 

Thanks for the input Phil that is a little reassuring. Bump for the nite crew

 

Russco, I can assure you SCAT is a reputable company. I have personally used them for decades on various engine builds up to 1000 HP. Performance beyond that, I turned elsewhere of course, as then things became one off generally. That said, I would trust thier balancing. Remeber this is a production shop and not a race engine shop. They do manufacturing of high performance componants. Yes they make and sell thousands of rotating assembly's per year. Ask them nicely and they just might give you a bob-weight for each stroke and over bore combination. The average person really doesn't need to know this anyway. Will the balance be as good as I would do for you, probably not, BUT close. Now, here is what's REALLY important, anyone who has ever spun a crankshaft knows this. Balancing is a black art to some degree, and heres why.
No-one in the world has yet to fiqure out exactly how much oil is on a rod, piston, etc while the engine is running, OK. Yet, when we calculate a bob -weight, we add a arbitrary number for "oil" in grams that we assume will be rotating and recipricating with the componants while the engine is running. No one actually knows this amount other than the Almighty himself. So years of experience teaches us that approxiamately this amount for this length rod and so forth and so on.
Most good engine builders will balance a critical assembly to plus or minus either 1 or 2 grams at either end of the crank. I would safely specualte that a assembly such as the SCAT you mention would be plus or minus 5-7. Maybe even 10, and that's fine for all but a all out race only engine. More than enough, I quarantee it. Heres why.
We once took apart a brand new crate 454 from G.M. and completely disassembled it and basically recorded al of the findings as far as tolerance, dimension, and yes after calculating the bob -weight, I spun up the crank too. This is going back around 15 years now, but I want to say in the neighborhood of 35 grams front and 40-45 grams in back- OUT OF BALANCE!. yet my point is, this engine installed in your Chevelle probably would or could have gone 200,000 and you would never have known any better how bad the crank was out. Yes, this is a TRUE story, TR

 

my op with those cranks are that they are probably better than most oem cranks. I have purchased oem chevy big block steel cranks and have had to send them back for runout at the center bearing. some as much as 0.004... These cranks were the same as those installed in oem engines as production performance big blocks sold to the public .when I complaned to the sales rep he stated I need to turn them to correct the runout for performance applications. they met oem standards for toleranceas as built .There is a big differance in crankshafts for custom built engines versus the oem performance standards .its all about its intended use

 

I have heard from more than one source that Scat cranks and rods are now being made in China. Is this true? Can anyone confirm what I have been told or is it just rumor?

 

I know that some of their stuff is made off shore, so is Eagle. That doesn't mean it isn't a good product.
But it took my machinest a long time to talk me into trying Eagle products.
Larry T

 

I have used one scat 286 kit. its good stuff. the balance was double checked and it was ok
the bearing clearance was correct and no modifications were required to any of the parts
in the kit the engine works good
I just ordered another one from speedway for my next project
If I see china parts I will post that info and send the kit back my ford dont speak Chinese

 

I built a 4" Scat unit. One of the rods had never been honed to size on either the big end or small end. You can draw your own conclusions.

 

Point taken FlatJack But did they make good on it? I would venture to say thats not the norm fro them they sell a shit load of stuff.

Anybody else Im getting ready to buy this I guess. Thanks Mike

 

It sounds like you want to trust the parts as good and throw it together.
There will be stories of guys that yank an engine out, swap in other parts before the block is even to room temp and run it another 100K miles. There will be other stories of checking every part for specs and some little overlooked thing turning around and biting them in the ass.
It's up to you and your pocket, but I try to confirm as much as possible with a build.
Straightness, clearances and balance are all good things to check.

 

Mostly I'm concerned with the balance being close enough to use as is and having to do a bunch of clearancing on the block for the rotating assembly? For some reason there are no shops that offer balancing locally. I always check bearing clearances thats not really the issue.

 

A gram scale and some specs should let you at least verify the balance is close.
Weigh all the parts and compare to the numbers they provide.

 

Never used the flatty setup but I have used that same basic setup on other builds. The only difference should be the application right? First one I used I checked the balance at the local race shop. It was right on the money.

Anyway no experience with the flatty setup but the setup works for other applications.

 

My personal opinion would be, Scat does build some good stuff. I have read several articles where they say that the new nodular iron cranks from Scat and Eagle are in many ways stronger than a 60's forged crank due to quality and technology in manufacturing. Yes, I do believe they are made overseas so if thats a hang up for you, you may want to verify it.

Long story short, I would buy it and run it as is out of the box. The final thing to remember is its a flatty, its not like your going to be turning 6K +. At the RPM's you will be running even a half assed balance job would last forever in a flatty.



Scot

 

Question for those in the know: Are you supposed to balance the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate at the same time as the crank?

 

I do if at all possible. But a lot of shops don't think that it is necessary. I bought a scat ballanced assembly for a small block a couple of years ago that came with a flexplate and balancer.

But getting back to your question the balancer and flywheel or flexplate should be included in the balance. Someone is going to say that the flywheel or flex plate is neutral balance as well as the balancer but you can just get it closer with them then without them.

 

I have used and sold 100's of Scat flathead kits and never had a problem.

 

There ya go.

I figured that the quality would not be any less for a flatty than an SBF.

 

Thanks Thats what I'm looking for. I'm ordering today 4.125x3 5/16

Now on to cam choice, Im thinking about an Isky 1007B or possibly a L100 regrind

 

Balance it,...regardless of it's being "factory balanced" or not....Well worth the money !

4TTRUK

 

Finished a build for a '34 roadster for a good friend just last year. Did a 59A with a 276 kit (3 5/16X4). Over 6k miles and he is still VERY happy with it. No balance problemd, no fit/finish problems Everything mic'd and plasitgauged perfect. I have used various Scat products over the years and have gotten to know Tom Lieb (owner and all around good egg) personally during that time. He builds quality stuff and is on the shop floor most every day making sure. I have heard 2nd and 3rd party problems but never from anyone personally.

 

I used one of the 286cid kits in our '50 about 2 yrs ago. Had no clearence issues, have no vibration problems, just washed everything good and put it together.

 

Just bought a '33 Ford 2-door sedan out of CA. On it's way to Colorado, the block froze. The guy's insurance (Hagerty) is covering it! It's a 59A that was rebuilt 750 miles ago. I saw that kit and was thinking about putting it in, since I'm already there ya know . I thought I look on here to see if anyone had used it as well. I love the HAMBers!!
I think I will buy the kit an report back! Thanks HAMBers!