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1934 Plymouth / 241 Red Ram HELP!!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by uglyoldcrow, Jan 7, 2012.

  1. uglyoldcrow
    Joined: Oct 3, 2008
    Posts: 98

    uglyoldcrow
    Member

    Need some HELP HERE!. I'm having a 241 Red Ram built for my 1934 Plymouth PF Coupe. The coupe has it's original independent front suspension in it. I am planning on changing it out for the early Dodge/Plymouth wavy front axle. The 241 Red Ram has a center sump pan on it now. My engine builder just asked me if I needed to change the oil pan to rear sump not to interfere with the front axle. Anybody done this before. Thanks, Jim
     

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  2. TP
    Joined: Dec 13, 2001
    Posts: 2,023

    TP
    Member
    from conroe tx

    Your axle will be well in front of the oil pan. I am using a 241 in my 28 ford pickup also. You will have no problem. Nice coupe. One of my favorites. TP
     
  3. uglyoldcrow
    Joined: Oct 3, 2008
    Posts: 98

    uglyoldcrow
    Member

    I guess I must be the First to put an old 241 Hemi in an old Plymouth!
     
  4. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,958

    George
    Member

  5. TR Waters
    Joined: Nov 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,439

    TR Waters
    Member
    from Vermont

    Dodge did not make a rear sump pan. You could conceivably cut a front sump pan entire in two and reverse the sump. (except the drain plug will now face forward)
     
  6. Cool-View
    Joined: Jan 1, 2012
    Posts: 23

    Cool-View
    Member

    A friend of mine is building a 33 Ply couple with a 241. The very front of the engine is over the axle. I am helping him on it. It came from the factory with the tube front axle. I'm not sure if the frame rails are the same between the independant and straight axle front end. The straight axle frames have a kick out in the front for the spring hangers. We used the lower part of the 6 front engine mount and the upper part from the 241 and welded them together so it looks like a factory installed engine. The steering box will not work in the factory location. We may rotate it down and add a joint. Even if we do this the cross link looks like it may hit the pan. It won't be a problem for the axle but may for the steering. We also had to remove some of the transmission cross member to clear the bell housing. He is running a selector 3 speed that I made a floor shifter for. He is using the stock brake and clutch peddles. That's about how far along it is. Next time I get over to his place I'll try and take a picture or two.
     
  7. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,384

    Andy
    Member

    I cut my pan all up!. I reversed the sump and shortened it and moved it to the rear. I made the sump a bit longer also. I blew up a Chevy II back in the day with the front sump pan. I am not going to try that again. I welded a piece of 1/4" pipe to the side of the pan and used a pipe to tubing fitting to use a chevy chrome dip stick. I am also using a chevy pick up.
     
  8. Cool-View
    Joined: Jan 1, 2012
    Posts: 23

    Cool-View
    Member

    I got over to take a couple shots of my friends 33 Ply. One shows the front of the frame with the kick out and the spring hanger. The other shows the front cross member and the front motor mount we made. I think your cross member is much different as well as the front of the frame.
     

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