Projects Giant speedster project

Another leak at Yonah Station. This time a pipe froze. Then, after the fix, another pipe blew. Then we went to North Carolina for a weekend. Update soon. Hang in there.

Jerry

 

step/box

I checked on my pipe repair at the Yonah Station and it seems to be holding. I can't afford another leak. Water is a landlord's bane. I beadblasted the angle that supports the running board and step. I cut them in two because I've got to add about 7/8" to them. I also ordered some carriage bolts from McMaster-Carr but they won't be here until tomorrow afternoon. The right side step will be a little more fun since I don't have to build a box.

Jerry

 

I love the big yellow book, mc master carr gets used alot

 

How about a Giant Diamond T Speedster? was a barn find after it was done speedstering it was a Farm Tractor until 1962. This was at the Hot Rod Aram in Tacoma Washington in 2008. Sorry no other info on this beast. Good Luck with your project. Darrin Himself

 

That is a nice dropped axle in that Diamond T. A lot of hours into that wood tail too. Used as a tractor EH? That would be the Caddilac of tractors for sure.

Doug.

 

I do like that.

I have a pair of those diddly little Brooklands screens I was going to use on my RPU, bit I was worried they might look too small. Obviously not.

 

Carriage bolts

My carriage bolts came in but they needed a little polishing to get that old timey look. I used a split nut I made up years ago to hold bolts in the vice or lathe. I made up several sizes. It's the only way I know not to screw up the threads. You can also drill a hole through the nut for a guide and you'll be able to drill a perfect hole in a bolt every time.
the bolts polished up good but then I realized I have to cut to the square part to fit the hole. All this work to get something that looks like a rivet.

Jerry

 

If you can, you might want to square-out the hole instead? So it won't turn & all that. I'm sure you thought about it, just wondering how you would get the bolt to stop from turning if you round off the square part of the bolt.



Tom

 

I expect you are double nutting the shank to keep it from turning while you tighten the bolt (extra long shank).

But if you want something that looks like a rivet, you could hot rivet it.

IIRC there is a thread on here somewhere about how to do that.

 

Use an inch long piece of 1/2" round bar, drilled to fit close on the thread diameter, then saw it along its length so it can flex. It'll grip the thread well but not damage it, as the load is spread over a large area. It'll also align and centre the bolt in the chuck automatically.

It is an easier, quicker and more accurate way to hold the bolts than your small split nut.

Here's one off the web, with a built in shoulder:

 

Where have you been!

Water leaks, broken toilets, crazed renters, cold weather...
I'm back now

Where was I? So I cut the letters off the carriage bolts and cut off the square part under the head. Then I installed them on my spacers and daubed some paint on the head. I put the frame covers on and slapped them with my palm. I squinted and looked for microscopic marks. Which I saw. I drilled out the marks and checked to see it I was in any way accurate. Close enough! Now you can see what all the fuss was about. I don't want to be drilling in painted frame covers. Next the other side and then the front frame covers.

Jerry

 

Spent a few hours drilling holes in the frame covers, cutting them out here and there to fit over the shifter mount, etc. I'm thinking I'm going to take them to my buddy at the body shop and have him paint them. How much an that be? Question: (no, it's not a trick) How do you keep a die grinder bit from chattering. That drives me crazy. Everything is fine. You're grinding away. Suddenly the thing starts chattering and nothing you can do except get off the power and wait for it to stop.

Jerry

 

its just true or un true also change angle

 

A sharp countersink is less likely to chatter than a dull one, in my limited experience. Consistent pressure also helps. Lower speeds are better than faster speeds. Lubricant might help extend the life of the countersink but doesn't seem to have a positive or negative effect on stopping the chatter. The number of flutes, in my experience, doesn't make much, or any difference, on the tendency for the countersink to chatter. Some countersinks are advertised as being "chatter free" but I think they perform well because they are new and sharp.... once they become dull they chatter at the same rate as the others, IMHO. Unlike drill bits, dull countersinks aren't as obvious when they need to be replaced or sharpened (I have never sharpened a countersink but I am guessing that it could be done by an enterprising person).

 

sharpening the single flute countersinks is easy as pie, but you need to have your workpiece clamped to keep it from walking around when using them

 

Hey everyone,
I'm an open kind of guy so I thought while everyone is waiting for the next installment I'd tell you what's going on. My biggest renter is leaving and that's put a serious hurt on my already strained finances. This means that for the next few months I've got to devote a lot of time to remodelling the building so I can attract some new renters. I'll keep posting but the pace will slower. The NAPA people are cleaning the place out and removing the paint but inside I'm converting the warehouse space to retail. That means I've got to install a dropped ceiling, some ac units, and interior walls. If you know of anyone who need to rent space in Cleveland GA, send them my way.

Jerry

 

Sorry to hear that Jerry- hope a new customer comes in soon!

 

Chin up, Brother.
Life get's in the way sometime, but you'll overcome!

 

weren't them picker guys lookin ????

 

Sorry to hear that, I wish you good luck with the future.

 

Sorry to hear that. Natural brick looks real good.
A nice vintage car shop, museum or storage facility would be great, but will have to take what you get.

 

WORK!

I actually got some work done on the speedster. I painted the apron, 2 front frame covers, the footwell and the toolbox/step with high build primer. I also ordered some threaded couplers which I need to hold the frame covers on. They might be in tomorrow. BTW some of you might have noticed I have a little advertisement for a book I wrote down below this text. Well, I've got a new one out called KING OF ALL MEN. It's a fictionalization of the 1908 New York to Paris race. Just 99 cents but you've got to have a Kindle.
http://www.amazon.com/ebook/dp/B006Z2ERIS

Jerry

 

Frame covers

I need all the holes to be in place before I paint the frame covers. More dabbing paint of threaded couplers and more drilling holes. I think all the holes are done now. Next I have to bring over the cowl and set it up along with the radiator and the wood shelves under the hood. Then I can drill those holes. Maybe someone can tell me why even though I used the website for my new book, the link still takes you to the old book. Hey, I piddled around and got it working. Not sure how.

Jerry

 

i like your color change black will look nice.............

 

Last wee bits

I'm rounding up the last wee bits to put in place so I can make sure the frame covers have all their holes in place. These are the old running board supports which will go just behind the right front wheel on the frame. I'm not sure what they will carry. Not the running board. I might use them to support a spare tire or maybe another toolbox. I might use one to hold the front fender in place. Regardless I needed to straighten them and blast them. I put a coat of POR15 on them but forgot to take a picture. Tomorrow is paint day for the cowl, the running board supports and the footwell.

Jerry

 

They should support a wooden box that holds your goggles and leather helmet. Maybe your driving gloves too, unless those are in the glove compartment.

 

More paint and stuff

I spent the morning building a new sign for the old Napa store. Then I checked out the paint on ths inside of the cowl and the footwell. Wait, did I tell you I painted those parts? Anyway, I used some Sherwin Williams epoxy I had laying around. This is under the hood or under the foot stuff so no one will see it too much. Then I remasked the cowl and tomorrow I'll put some hi-build primer on the part that shows. I painted the running board supports with the same stuff. Next I brought over the radiator, gave it a quick buff, then installed it. Hey, the beast is starting to look like something again. I have to install the cowl and hood to do some minor adjustments next.
Jerry
__________________

 

Looking good Jerry!

 

Final Fitting

Sounds like a guy getting his last suit before they lay him in the coffin. The cowl has it's last coat of primer now. The next step is to make up the hood sides. One has to have a cutout for the exhaust pipes. I'm thinking the other side needs a duplicate cutout to show case the Seagrave Special on the manifold. I'd like to find some vintage looking mesh to put in the opening--brass or something. Anyone got any ideas? The exhaust side has to be two pieces. Time to make a pattern or a mock up. Sorry about the pic quality, the batteries in my camera died.

Jerry

 

A broad inverted "U" shape cut out of the bottom. Full the U with Stainless mesh on a 45 degree bias - brass would work too, it might call attention to itself too much. On the bottom on pass. side just a flat bar. On drivers side, individual fingers that fit over the individual exhaust pipes.

That's how I see it anyway. Lets you show off the motor while keeping fingers and birds out.