I'm considering parallel leaf springs for a 36 or 7 Ford front axle. I'm going for lightweight and simple. The front axle won't show, will be fendered. Will U-bolts need to tie into the axle via "mounting pads"?
I see plenty of set ups the other way around, mostly because those axles are in less demand and therefore less expensive than the Ford axle. Why go the other way with a Ford axle? use the right axle no? Cheaper, easier, no question on alternative attachment
Just saw that done yesterday...It was under a home built trailer at a friends cabin. Bolted together through the spring and axle via the hole for the perch. Just paint it flat black and rattle can the wheels red....You`ll be "In"
Actually, I started thinking about how I could use the perch holes or drilled beam holes to mount a mounting pad. There would be no flat black or red wheels, and I'd try to do a good job.
I just saw it done on the front of a "project car" at the Phoenix swap this weekend... This was fenderless, and I wish I could unsee it! Don't mean to knock what you are thinking about, but the biggest problem I see is not welding the perches to the axle, but what are you going to do with the front half of the springs hangng out the front of the sheet metal? If you look closely, you'll note the most early Chevys and Mopars that came with parallel front springs had ultra long frame horns to accomodate them. Ford always had a minimal overhang... It's just sorta the Ford way. This unfortunate Model "A" I saw this weekend had a pair of what I guessed to be F1 truck springs that had the front segments shortened about a foot and a half, leaving the spring rate thoeretically about right for one of those giant mining dump trucks at best. Then, 'cause he couldn't get it low enough, he welded the perches onto the bottom of the axle, setting it between the frame and the springs with about 1/2 of travel. Oh, and did I mention that the axle still ended up about 4" back from where it should be? One last thought, with the ultra short front segments, even if he could work out the spring rate issues, and travel clearance issues, the movement of the suspension would make for a pretty radical negative caster gain as it went through it's movement...
I'm planning to build a frame from Model T rails and Falcon or Comet front fenders will cover it. The front frame rails will extend past the front axle enough for short leaf springs to be mounted, whether or not I go with parallel or a transverse setup. I'm thinking parallel will give a lighter weight advantage because no bones, radius rods, whatever they're called are necessary, from what I've seen. I do have two parallel leaf front axles in the yard that I'll take a closer look at. One has front brakes, the other doesn't.
I don't think you'll get a weight advantage with 2 springs. Just the opposite. The weight of the 2nd spring will probably be more than the weight of the bones. If you do want to run 2 springs, I think it's look much better if you used an axle made for it instead of reworking a Ford. Just my .02.
Are you building a speedster? As for being lighter, it will be about the same. You will lose the wishbone weight but gain it back with another spring as well as the exstended frame horns. I type slow.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=592210 The weight may be a wash, but parallel springs should be short and light. Being able to adapt good brakes for cheap is a main consideration. And, I don't care for the look of most of the transverse spring mounts. I've gotta 36 Ford, and two unidentified parallel leaf front axles: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=525916
I have a '57 Ford drag car done back in the mid '60s that has a chromed and drilled Model A axle mounted on parallel leaf springs up front. The axle sits below the springs, there are mounting pads welded on top of the axle with 4 holes each, the u bolts hook over the springs, point down and bolt to the mounting pads. Basically just like most factory beam axle/parallel leaf set ups.
Just an opinion, but I think that's where more trouble will be headed your way with this deal. Shorter springs make for a heavier spring rate. Doubling shorter springs make for an even stiffer spring rate. The weight issues as others have mentioned will be about at a wash, so that isn't an issue. The other thing to think about with a shorter spring on parallels is the arc that everything is going to move in creating a radical change in caster as I said before... There is a reason why early parallel leaf cars had long springs.
Yeah, I'm thinking I'll go with the transverse spring (I already have) and find a Model A front crossmember.
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