I have a 1954 Chevy original. When the engine is hot and the car is turned off for 10-15 min, it doesn't want to turn over? If I turn it off for a few min, it cranks right up...i thought it is vapor locking...how do I fix this? Thanks!.....I've replaced the thermostat, water pump, and bypassed the heater. Cuz it was leaking, but it had the same problem before
If it turns over but doesn't start hot, that's one problem. If it's stuck and won't turn over at all when hot, that may be another issue. Can you clarify?
If the engine won't "turn over" then you have a starter or starting system failure. This has nothing to do with vapour lock. If you have vapour lock, the engine will still turn over fine, it just won't start. I used to have a 340 Duster with this same problem, turns out the factory starter (not a mini-starter) was too close to the headers.
Have you looked in the carb when it won't start to see if it's getting any gas at that point? Does it happen to have a clear fuel filter so you can see if fuel is flowing? If it's cranking, but won't start. check for spark. I'm leaning toward the condenser needing replaced. Anymore, even if something is new doesn't mean it's any good.
Good advice on the cables. Not only check them but it sounds like it could be as simple as a bad ground itself. Ground the battery to the engine if it is only connected to the frame. Be sure to clean off the connection area well. Had an old chev with the exact same symptoms. Worked for me . Good luck......
Sounds like the fuel is vapor locking. The fuel evaporates in the carb bowl and the fuel line. You can insulate the fuel line and make an insulator for the carb base to try to keep them cool. It could be caused by a stuck heat riser that gets the intake manifold too hot. You could also have a weak fuel pump.
how old is the starter, the battery, the battery cables. some of these items could be pushing 60 years old. dont assume take a look. none of the above are expense or hard to replace. treat the diesease, not the symptoms.
Look in the carb after about 5 minutes and see if you have fuel driping. Chevy late model 6s used to have this problem the fuel in the line from the pump to the carb would heat up and expand flooding the carb. The fix was to drill a very small hole in the pump betreen the inlet and outlet side.
wrap your exhaust by you starter or put on a heat shield. Also check your timing if its to advanced it will make it hard to turn over. It has nothing to do with vapor lock.
It has nothing to do with exhaust heat either. The exhaust pipe and starter are on opposite sides of the engine.
1954 = I6 1955 = first V8 I was thinking exhaust heat too until you made me re-read the OP... Lesson learned...
New starter bushings might fix it. The starter drags too much, using up all the battery power and leaving very little for the coil to give a good enough spark.
Another problem with Stovebolts is varnish buildup on the pistons. The stuff gets sticky when it's hot, and causes lots of drag. I run high detergent diesel oil in mine, it seems to dissolve the gunk. If you take one apart, you will see the pistons are a sick yellow colour, that's varnish. I was told by an "old hand" that multi-viscosity oils do that on steel pistons. Who knows.
You said it turns over but wont start. Does it smell like fuel? if so your carb might be leaking down and flooding the hot engine. You said after awhile it starts fine this could be the problem. If not just keep throwing money at it.
My Hudson does the same thing. When it's hot it won't start. If it cools down for 15-20 min. it will nearly bump start. My thought too is the fuel is evaporating from the bowl and line or the carb is leaking down as Ghost28 stated . Also it is still 6-volt and cranks slow even on a fully charged battery If I jump it with 12 volt (not recommended for extended period) it will fire right up.
Sounds about right, the carb is actually leaking, I have the gasket, but I've been a little hesitant to replace it. But after hearing this, I'll do it. Thanks a lot!
Funny how the OP didn't clarify initially, therefore people are diagnosing two different set of symptoms. Reality- it turns over fine when hot-just doesn't start. I would start with the condenser.
I think we have a winner... Very common hot start issue and usually a 15min $5.00 fix. Vapor lock is a thing of the past unless the car has a really shitty fuel routing right near excessive heat. I'm sure we'll now get a small rash of current vapor lock stories, but in general it's a design flaw that causes it these days with the new gas. A hot flooding issue is a whole new problem, most likely related to a needle/seat assy that has been beat to death by our newer fuel blends which lack lubricity as well as absorb moisture. Just sayin...
I think some term definitions are in order... To me if it won't "turn over" then it's a starter/wiring problem. The crank shaft is not spinning. Vapor lock or a coil issue would not come into play. If it turns over but won't "catch" or start then it could be a fuel or ignition issue. When trouble shooting, you need to determine exactly what it is or is not doing in order to know where to look without going on a wild goose chase. Just to confuse things more, I had the same problem (wouldn't turn over when hot) and chased it for almost a year. The back yard mechanics diagnosed it as heat soak. I built heat shields and changed starters and solenoids with no success before some one suggested moving the battery ground cable from the chassis to the engine block. The problem never occurred again. My first car developed a similar problem. It would turn over but not start and all the back yard mechanics (teenagers) swore I had a vapor lock problem. It happened one time in front of a good ole boy that said wait a second. He went into his garage, brought out a CO2 fire extinguisher, put his hat over the carb and blasted the coil until there was a pile of snow on it. He said start it up and damn if it didn't! I was able to get rid of all the clothes pins and tin foil on my fuel lines. The windings inside a coil can develop hairline cracks which grow as the engine gets up to operating temps. Two no start problems with completely different approaches and solutions.
Why don't you do a starter draw test see how many amps your drawing,then check timing,then dwell, dwell effects timing once base engine is set you take alot out of equation then go after the carb it could be hot soak just my 2cents
And even funnier as to how many guys posted their starter solutions after the OP clarified that the engine spins over ok it just doesn't start. ' A pop cup of ice water poured over the fuel pump and fuel line will usually take care of a temporary vapor lock condition. My son and I got pretty good at that when we moved from Texas to Washington in 1977 and the 48 didn't like pulling a trailer up long hills in Colorado. I'm with those who suspect the coil and other ignition pieces though. I'd at least have the coil tested and probably replace the points and condenser with quality pieces if they haven't been changed recently. Also make sure that the top of the coil is clean and dry. Crud on it can sometimes be a path for electricity to take off in the wrong direction.
Put a close pin on the fuel line. The old guys used to do that all the time with Ford and Chevy inline 6s, when I was a kid.
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