I am dumping a brand spanking new flatty in my 33 pickup, and am going to convert it to 12V as well. There is not a whole lot that is electrical on it, but I don't want to burn up what is on there. I have a converted generator, voltage regulator and starter, so am all set to go. I know about lights and such, but when doing so do you have to do anything to the points/condensor? I am going to put a 12V coil in that is internally resisted. What about headlight switch or dimmer switch? Also, the original amp gauge and foot starter, will they need work as well?? Electrical is my weak point...go easy on me
Switches, (your distributor is just a rotating switch) do just as well or better on 12v as 6v. Change the condensor, the amp guage will be fine, if you have a fuel level guage it will need to be changed or use a voltage reducer. You'll need a 12v starter solinoid. Don't for get the light bulbs in the guage panel.
Heres some good info from stovebolt.com http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/12_volt_conversion.html some say to change the solinoid to a 12 volt and some say they just leave the orginal 6 volt in place. I just left my starter alone and no problems. I know other guys that have old chevys and they've kept the starter original.
I've used the 6 volt solenoid without any problem. Your switches and starter will be fine. Run a 12 volt condenser and ignition coil. I'd build a transistorized voltage drop thats good for a 6 volt, 10 amp output. Run your stock gauges (other than the amp gauge) and stock horn off of it. You can also run the 6 volt radio off of it, but you'll have to do some chassis insulating because the stock radio is positive ground... Or you could do a 12 volt positive ground system...
Here's a link to some info on the voltage drop: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=529036&highlight=volt
not sure if you have a heater but the blower motor will not last long and if you have a speed control that will light up like a light bulb, this all happened to me in my 45 GMC.
Thanks guys! I do not have anything electric other then the basics. The only gauge that is electric is the amp. No horn, radio, heater, ect. Just an amp gauge and the lights/igntion/starter. So it sounds like if I change the bulbs, coil and condensor I should be good to go, right?
Oh and Kris, I looked at that schematic you posted above...I'm so electrical stupid I have no idea what any of that shit is I would LOVE to learn basic electrical!!!
When you change from 6V + ground to 12V - ground you will need to swap the wires on the Ammeter so that it will show a charge when running and show a discharge when the switch is off and the lights are on. The ammeter shows the direction of the amperage flow. The coil needs to be wired with the - terminal going to the points unlike you old 6V + ground system. All of the 6 V switches were designed to carry twice the current that the 12V system will need so if they are in good shape they will be just fine. I really liked the foot starter on my 32. If you want you can take it apart and file the contacts and the copper "buss bar" and it will be as good as knew and last twice as long. It's fun to rest both elbows on the wheel and start the car with someone sticking their head in the window and watch them jump. When you get it a part you'll see how beefy it really is. I've done this to original HL switches too. I like to take apart the original switches and file or sand the contacts including the ignition switch on the column. Often the bakelite part of the ign switch will have a path worn in it from years of use. A fine flat file can eliminate this and the old spring is still strong enough for excellent contact. Your original switches are a lot more heavy duty than the repro parts IMHO I think you will like using the original switches. I do.
Thanks! Sounds easy enough. I will take your cleaning advise. The HL switch is an older aftermarker pull switch in the dash with a glass fuse. I would immagine it will be fine, we sell them at work and guys buy em for EVERYTHING. 12V, 6V or whatever. Thanks a ton guys!!!
Well just in case you run across an original HL switch, you won't be afraid to "up grade" to an original part. They can handle it. I once used all 41 Ford switches in a 32 P/U hotrod with the repro plastic knobs. We used to take all the switches out of parts cars before all the repro and universal stuff was readily available.
Another thing Tommy, it has a loop the amp wire runs through, not two terminals...do I just swap the wire end for end so it goes through the loop in the opposite direction?
Wouldn't it be better to use a regular 12V coli and wire in a resistor circuit so you have a full 12v for starting but less voltage when running so you don't burn out your points... assuming you are running points.
Yep just disconnect it and feed it through in the other direction. I couldn't remember if it had the loop or not. When I first got my 34 P/U with SW gauges it would only show a charge when running but not show a discharge. I didn't wire it but I moved one of the wires to the other terminal and it now shows a slight discharge when the switch is on and not running as it is supposed to do.
He's using a coil with an internal ballast resistor (it's a Ford). It's the same as a regular 12 v coil with an external ballast...
I had trouble with a headlight switch. Could not handle 12 volts. Don't leave the battery hooked up untill you are sure all is right. No need having problems you can avoid.
I have been using the stock blower motor and switches in my 51 Dodge on a 12V system and the main fan switch started to glow orange from the back. The defrost switch seemed to be fine though(?).
The Jalopy Journal
