Finally got the frame back to my house. The mustang 2 suspension went in nice, had to narrow the rack slightly but everything else went smooth. Stainless tubular control arms, 2 inch drop spidles, drilled and slotted rotors and power rack. Fabing the rear suspension was a lot more involved but finally got that done as well. Its a narrowed 9 inch, strange engineering center section with a detroit locker and 3.60 gears. Stainless triangulated 4 link with a compe***ion engineering anti-roll bar. I was really happy how that turned out. We put the body on so i could continue with the body work, starting with bracing the roof so i could remove the front side cowls. Tacked the door in place making sure the gaps were right then welded in the side cowl panel. Getting those gaps right werent easy but everything came together in the end. Now gonna finish the other side then start with bracing up the body, building the floors and installing the trunk hinges and hidden door hinges. Been working on this car for a little over a year and have over $4000 in body panels alone but for the first time i am actually seeing a car. Its nice to finally see what all my moneys been spent on.
Did you have to remove the p***engers side cowl to repair it, or did you replace that panel with a repop? Cutting the cowl is a ballsy move...when you look at that big hunk missing it is easy to get freaked out. Nice work getting it back together, -Abone.
No mine were pretty bad and i prefer not to patch unless i have to. Those are new repros, really nice quality too, have all the braces in back and nut inserts welded in and they line up real nice
For the old paint i used a 6 inch Dual Action sander but i locked the head so it was single action, more like a grinder but less aggresive. I used 36 grint, 6 inch paper and that does a real nice job. For the rusted areas i used a cut off wheel to grind down through as much of the rust as i could being careful not to go through the metal and also moving it back and forth the keep the area smoooth, then i used a die grinder with either 24 or 36 grit to smooth out the marks left with the cut off wheel, then back to the da to get the material all uniform. Luckily that old metal they used is thick and can handle quite a bit of grinding and forming. Once the metal works all done i will probably still have to have some spots sand blasted to make sure all the rust is gone still tho.
Awesome work! I like the suspension set up too! I'm going to replace the hacke job MII in my 40 pretty soon. I'm also thinking of ditching the leaf springs and going to 4 link. We'll see how far I get with the rest of it first.
coupe is going to be one bad *** ride! i am working on my 41 ford pickup and i like the stance of your couple what size tires are u going to run or currently running on her. just trying to find a good tire size/stance for my pickup also going to be running a triangulated 4 link rear with an coilover mustang II setup. any pointers will be greatly appreciated!