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Hey Painters! What's Your Take On This

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Clik, Jan 17, 2012.

  1. Clik
    Joined: Jul 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,969

    Clik
    Member

  2. SycoSteve
    Joined: Feb 12, 2011
    Posts: 296

    SycoSteve
    Member

    I wouldn't do that. Allways try to sand or grind all surface rust off. POR 15 also makes a nice metal prep for removing and neutralizing surface rust.
     
  3. Bar Ditch
    Joined: Aug 1, 2011
    Posts: 272

    Bar Ditch
    Member
    from Tacoma

    I've watched Pete's videos for a long time and he's usually spot on with his stuff. But I would go his ^^ suggestion, It will do you better in the end to get rid of all the rust.BD
     
  4. Garry Carter
    Joined: Mar 11, 2002
    Posts: 575

    Garry Carter
    Member

    Don't have a problem with vinegar. But a version of "Prep Solv" (actually dilute phosphoric acid) is available for cheap at Home Depot and other such places. Just remember to IGNORE their application instructions. They want you to wipe it on with something like a scotchbrite pad, chemically converting the iron oxide to a more stable substance ... and then rinse with water before drying. Do not, repeat do not, rinse -- that will only result in flash rust in all the places that didn't have it before. Simply wipe down and dry the surface. You're then good to go with little chance that rust is gonna come back to bubble your paint later.
     
  5. chevnut55
    Joined: Dec 16, 2010
    Posts: 64

    chevnut55
    Member
    from ma.

    I had a adheasion problem with the por stuff before ,now I always remove all the rust and use prep solv..good tip on how to save some $$$ on it,going to home depot next time.
     
  6. Saxman
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 3,556

    Saxman
    Member

    Make sure you read the data sheet thoroughly for the primer that is going over it. Lots of epoxy primers cannot be shot over phosphoric acid. It causes serious adhesion problems.
     
  7. redroaddog
    Joined: Apr 1, 2011
    Posts: 387

    redroaddog
    Member

    we used to use it before painting over galvinized metal back in the day.i would da the metal first with 80 grit as grinding sometimes will fold the metal cuts over its self .....looks gone but not. did a 55 chev as a kid and three years later it started to bubble here and there like in the middle of the roof also make sure ur primer is made for direct to bare metal:cool:
     
  8. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 8,449

    RodStRace
    Member

    There are a lot of cool simple household tricks for stuff. Many have been posted here.
    However, when preparing for paint I would tend toward correct, recommended chemicals. The money saved is not worth the risk of all that work and other materials.
     
  9. SycoSteve
    Joined: Feb 12, 2011
    Posts: 296

    SycoSteve
    Member

    Adhesion problems after a chemical rust removal are usually caused from not removing all the residue after the treatment. I always scrub the surface with a scotch brite and precleano and wipe down with a clean rag several times before primering. Most primers requie a etching primer to go down before a high build epoxy primer. I allways put a coat of Variprime (Dupont ) over everything before any other priming is done.
     
  10. LowerthanLife
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 286

    LowerthanLife
    Member

    two videos, 20 minutes of blah, blah, blah, to show me how to wire wheel rust and wash it down with vinegar water. amazing.
     
  11. Rich Wright
    Joined: Jan 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,918

    Rich Wright

    That is the Gospel, right there...

    Cleanliness is the key. If you leave any chemical residue on the surface (or imbedded in the surface) you need to make certain the material you place on top is going to adhere. It's usually best to just make sure you clean the surface relentlessly prior to spray the etch primer.

    Check with the paint manufacturer to make sure about any compatibility issues.
     

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