I know this is a beat down subject...but here I try again. Im gathing parts for my 41 Plym Coupe to lower it. My car is "out of the ordinary" because the body is sitting on a 1950-1954 Plymouth frame (independent a-arm front suspension w/ rear end and elliptical rear leaf's) I want to sled the car, which means the body/frame needs to come down to drivable "on the floor" level. I have considered bags, but they are out of the budget unless I find some good used/new ones someone is willing to part with reasonably (making the pods and such is not an issue...I can do that). I thought about a dropped Upright to raise the spindle, but they go for $400-$500 a set....:crazy: the rear is a no brainer, but the front; I want to lower it and keep suspension there......dont want whacked out camber/steering issues. I want to do it right...but budgetary....is it even possible. I want the front wheels upright not slanted... What are your recommendations? what have the rest of you done. I see so many coupes/taildraggers on the ground...they look *****en and mean...that's what I want.
Mines channeled in the back and also has lowering blocks but the front is stock. I'm guessin you want to come down all the way around. I'm kinda stuck in between taildragger and g***er phase. I always thought taildraggers were just that, low in the back only but lately I see the term used to describe cars that are just really lowered all round with rear fender skirts. I'll take a look at the front but I've never lowered a car before other than spring cutting or the channeled cars I've had.
I think the term "Tail Dragger" is just that and the lowered cars like ours because of the big *** trunk...or tail...that is dragging.
What Tim said. If you can weld, you can z the frame, or maybe move just the front suspension crossmember up.
if your a-arms are set up like my buicks. just use 1 1/2 blocks and drop the springs. it may take a little longer but you'll still have all your front spring
yeah plenty of people have done it, could probably z it till the motor hits the hood and the tranis on your seat if you realy wanted to
check out fatman, they've got dropped steering arms/spindles that may work for you. i think they're in the $300-$350 range. they're supposed to lower the front by about 3 inches without adverse affects to geometry. after that cut the springs about one coil. you should be able to get it down by about 4 inches that way. I think this will end up being the cheapest way to go without compromising the geometry...unless you can get the metal and do the work yourself.
unclescooby, where did you get the blocks for your back end. i picked up some from the local pep boys but they're too wide to fit the leafs and use the original mounting hardware. do they make thinner blocks. just last night i was going to start drawing out some stuff in autocad to get some custom made blocks unless you know where i can find thinner ones.
Mine came with the car but I'll check and see if I can figure out where they came from. It sits REEEEAAAALLLY low, nearly undrivable unless you live on a perfectly flat section of the universe. It does help keep the local roads grated though. I should charge the local DOT for that service. When I get the leaf blowing headers on that big Lincoln motor, I'll also clean the sides of the street for them. I'm a real public servant.
Did you see this other thread?... This is what your car would look like if you just channel the **** out of it. That's always cool. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4556068750&category=6763
40mopar, I got the blocks for my 48 Plymouth from Hot Rod & Custom Supply. They carry narrow (1.75") blocks in 2 or 3 inch drop. I put the 3" blocks on mine.
yeah unclescoob, i started that thread, it is pretty cool from the outside. the floors need some serious attention, but otherwise pretty good inspiration for me. although i doubt i'll get into mine that ********. just want to drive and sit low. sancho thanks for the info. i'll be ordering these today.
Im going to look into it more, but I may flip the uprights like you can do on a shoebox. I need to check measurements and geometry to see if its going to work. I checked w/ fatman and thier uprights were in the range of $450... otherwise, I may make my own dropped uprights and throw in some new kingpins. I looked at my car last night and I cant Z the frame because the inner fender wells are already cut to accept the hemi. The end of the valve covers are almost behind the headlights....
sancho thanks for the info. i'll be ordering these today.[/QUOTE] correction, just called them and they don't carry them anymore...square 1.
I Know this is quite an old post - however I'm in Australia and I have a 60 Chryler Wayfarer, basically and Australian built car based on '54 plymouth. And it is now time to adjust ride height. The back is easy, but the front im in the same boat as everyone. Did the flipping of the uprights work? has anyone just headed the springs? http://instagr.am/p/Hugq2MPqJ8/
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