Need help with a step van

I just bought a 1959 Chevrolet step-van, model 3445. It has a 104” wheelbase, is powered by a Chevrolet 235 cubic inch straight six through a 4 speed transmission (granny low), a 5:14 differential, and a full floating 8 lug 1 ton axle. It has an “I” beam front axle with leaf springs and leaf springs on a solid Eaton axle in the rear. With the current running gear the top speed is 50 mph (due to the 5:14 differential and a governor on the engine). The steering, especially at low speeds, is almost impossible despite the large steering wheel.
The body is stock and in good shape. Originally the van had a three speeds on the tree and now has a four speeds on the floor. The original wheels have been replaced with 20 inch rims with 275/45R20’s tires. The wheels and tires are basically new. The van would look better if it was lowered about 4” inches. The tires and wheels are probably not the best for towing and I am not in love with the way they look.
I bought this van to pull my vintage racecar, a 1966 Marcos 1800GT, to the vintage races. The Marcos weighs less than 1700 pounds and I haul it on a tandem wheel trailer, which probably weighs an additional1500 pounds. So the towing package will be less than 3500 pounds even with all the extra things we forget to add to the weight like tie down straps etc.
Obviously I need to make some improvements to the step van if I want to use it for towing. The two biggest problems are the cruising speed and the steering. Currently the top speed is 50 mph and I need to be able to cruise at 65 mph and be able to maintain a decent rate in the mountains as well. Even if I remove the governor from the engine and change the differential ratio to 4:10 or 3:73 I doubt if the engine will be strong enough. Steering is also a huge problem. I can’t imagine how I could back the trailer in the pits with the current steering.
All of these problems can be fixed… Perhaps starting with the rear end… ***uming I can find a 3:73 to 1 or a 4:10 to 1 differential for the Eaton rear axle, that would help with the cruising speed. Let’s say $300 for a used differential.
With the new differential, I doubt that the engine (which runs well enough but not perfect) will be strong enough especially in the hills. Ok, so swapping out the inline six for a Chevrolet small block should fix that problem. We might as well include the newer transmission while I am at it…. Cost for a used 305-350 with transmission… say $1500 for one that doesn’t need to be overhauled immediately. Add in a new driveshaft to couple everything up… another $300.
Steering… probably a little grease would help but when I jack the front wheels off the ground the steering is “finger light” indicating that additional work on the steering is unlikely to improve the steering much. Ah, but there are several makers of IRS Mustang II steering conversions to cure this and other problems (like adding disc brakes). Cost, lets say $2000 and ignore for the moment, that no one probably makes a kit to fit this step van. Of course, I haven’t seen a kit for 8 lug wheels either, which the van currently has installed.
So, for the moment, the problem is unsolved with 8 lug wheels on the rear and 5 or 6 lug wheels on the front (after the proposed IRS conversion).
Lowering the van with the current running gear or after the proposed improvements will also be a challenge. But again, lets ignore that for a minute and see what I have spent so far… Differential at $300 plus Engine and transmission at $1500 plus driveshaft at $300 plus steering kit at $2000 = $4100 total That is some serious money! Even if I have overestimated by $1000 it is still a lot of money ($3100 instead of $4100).
When I look at Craig’s list I see complete trucks selling for that type of money. A search of the local area on Craig’s list turned up a lot of Chevrolet Blazers for less than $3000. It happens that the older Blazers have the exact same wheelbase as the step van, 104 inches. The newer Blazers have a 106.5 wheelbase, which could be made to work. If I buy a running Blazer I get better brakes, better steering, better cruising speed, newer and stronger engine and it all works as a “package”. Am I missing something here? Buying a running truck and switching out the body seems to make a lot of sense. However, I have never done a body/frame swap. The “Snow Sled”(Google “Snow Sled Van”), a 1955 version of my step van (virtually identical in stock configuration), chose to go the route of switching out the components. They installed airbags and tubbed the rear wheels so that might have effected their decision. They also changed a lot of other things but they still retained the stock ch***is.

While there are dozens of problems with a ch***is swap (steering linkage and pedal location are probably being the biggest problems (technically).

I have the tools to carry out either plan. Currently I am leaning toward buying a complete donor truck. What do you guys think? Am I missing something? What would you do? Has any of the HAMBers swapped out a frame on a step van?
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Interesting about the steering, I have a 57 single wheel one ton, which has pretty much identical running gear (mine has a tired 283 instead of a 6). My steering is not bad after I greased the king pins. But I'm very used to driving these old trucks with manual steering. If you're not used to it, I guess it could be difficult. But you might look at the wheel/tire situation. If you're going to keep it an 8 lug truck, and use it for towing, then you might want to run normal 16" skinny E series tires, not that modern funky stuff that it has now. Narrower tires makes a big difference in slow speed steering on these trucks. Try it.

As for the rearend, I put an 80s suburban 3.73 14 bolt 8 lug rear in mine, I also swapped the springs. The frame is the same width as the ones on the 63-87 trucks, so it's a relatively easy swap.

If you keep a small block in it, then the 4 speed should work ok, and won't require any driveshaft work. I'm putting a big block in mine, and going to a TH400.

I wouldn't put a pinto front suspension in a tow vehicle.

On the frame swap....not what I would do.

btw I'm way jealous of your nice find

 

Squirrel about has it. I've driven these trucks in Chicago doing deliveries, so I know the steering isn't that hard, when properly setup. Hell, I usually one-handed the ******s, AND we had women driving those things.

Check the bearings on the spindles, might be seized, and removing weight will mask that symptom.

As for engine, the compartments in these are tight, might want to go with a 292/6, just sayin'.

Cosmo

P.S. From much experience, IFS on trucks like these is just a nightmare. Parts wear FAST, and the increase in ride comfort (not much) doesn't cut it for me. There is a reason that over-the-road trucks do not have IFS. It has to do with maintenance, less parts = less worn parts.

 

X2. Not to sound rude, but i see so many of these "quick/n/easy" ideas on here.

That long drawn out post trying to lead up to the justification of doing a frame donor..

People come up with this stuff because it sounds so simple. Guess again..

Motor won't be in the right place, nor the PS box, body mount issues, major floor mods, etc etc.

 

F&J, your response is fine (not rude). I am honestly trying to look at the options available. While I have done a lot of work on airplanes and British cars, my experience on American cars and trucks is limited. I wrote what was admittedly a long post in order that those of you who have a lot more knowledge than I do could give me your honest opinions based on my post and your experience. If I had already made up my mind I wouldn't have written the post. This is truly a case of wanting your input so I can make an intelligent decision. I wrote about what I wanted to do with the van so the people responding could consider the mechanical requirements in their replies and so they would know that the van is a support vehicle. While I will have a lot of fun working on the step van my primary focus is the race car. I will consider all the input that I receive as valid and worthy of consideration because... you guys have "been there and done that". I haven't and I don't need to make avoidable mistakes when all I have to do is ask questions and listen to the replies. Thanks, and I mean it!

 

You might look at getting a newer step van as a donor vehicle...might have a similar frame shape/size, and mor appropriate running gear, and power steering. It would have the parts in about the right place. It's probably not too difficult to shorten a frame. But even doing that way would be a lot of work, and they do put kind of steep gearing in most step vans, they're for local delivery, not highway use.

 

Step vans are around town vehicles. They were not destined for highway speeds. Think 55 TOPS. Maybe you should look for a deisel dually to haul racecars thru the mountains at 65?

 

with that fat rubber on the front of the thing no wonder you cant steer it.. that was designed for 7.00 x 18's those 275's are like what 10 inches wide? if ya like the rubber i think a power box would be in order.. or just go back to skinny tires up front.. i believe 16's will clear those front drums.. as for the gearing, it will be easier to just swap to a different diff.. since yours is a single rear wheel that should be easy to find a cheap one. as for the motor, you can keep the trans, and find a cheap small block and just swap the bell housing, i bought a 75k mile 305 for mine for $100 and my friend gave me a bell housing, and I am told you can get a small block flywheel that the stock clutch will bolt up to.. haven't got the money for my flywheel yet but i will let ya know...

 

What I would do is find an older Chevy 3/4 ton truck with a good drive train for cheap......like $ 1000 or less. There you have your engine, trans and rear....maybe front susp or steering too. Then sell any left over parts to get some of your money back. I would not attempt a frame swap, it's never as easy as it sounds.

 

KISS,
Go with taller tires with siffer sidewalls to make up the gear ratio problem.
This will also ease the steering problem, however, cosmo may be right about the spindle (king pin) bearings. Warming (propane NOT a torch) them and lubing them will usually free them up.

 

You can't fit tall enough tires under the back of that thing to make up for the 5.14 gears

 

Guys, lots of good ideas and suggestions... Thanks. Squirrel is right, taller tires are not the answer. I've done the math and it doesn't make enough difference to be worthwhile, unfortunately. In addition, I would like to (if possible) reduce the ground clearance and the taller tires would make that problem(mostly cosmetic) worse. 1950Cornet600HP and Ricks Garage may be right about the tires being part of the problem with the steering. I thought about that myself. The standard original tires, according to a brochure I have were 7-17.5/6PR (written exactly that way). The optional tires for heavy loads were 8-19.5/8PR. If I change tire sizes I will have to change the wheels, so what size wheels and tires would be appropriate? As I said, I am not in love with the wheels that are on the van even though they are almost new... I not a big fan of wagon wheel looking rims with rubber band tires on older cars.... I don't even like them on newer cars. I will try Ricks Garage trick of warming up the kingpins with a propane torch. The zerk fittings on the front end look like they haven't seen a grease gun in years. Thanks for the ideas...

 

As I mentioned earlier, look into normal 3/4 ton type tires, like 235/85R16 and newer wheels that they'll fit. Might need to go to an aftermarket wheel to clear the steering linkage though...you need less than 4" back spacing, and most 80s-90s factory 16 inch 8 lug wheels have a bit too much. I'm facing the same issue on my 57 truck.

16.5 wheels are not the hot setup, you can't get decent tires for them easily these days.

 

You can buy rust bucket 3/4 and 1 ton chevy trucks off CL all day long for $1000.... At least out here in the rust belt you can. [I know things are very different in Cali]
A P-30 ch***is motor home is also a good donor candidate.

Find a late 70's model with P/S and a small block, then swap everything over to your step van. Front and rear suspension, engine/trans, etc.

I have no personal expirence with step vans like yours, so I dont know how your steering box is set up. That might be an issue.

If nothing else, I'd make damn sure to upgrade the braking system!!!

 

Or fix the braking system. They're not that bad when they are working properly.

 

I am trying to find a ch***is match for my 1966 Chevy Step Van, I have been told that a G20 Chevy Van will work. Does anyone have any suggestions or comments as to the best match or what has worked for someone you know?

 

The G20 van doesn't have a ch***is...it's a unibody.

Try a P20 or P30

edit: also look here for lots of info about the different Chevy trucks over the years. could be helpful.

http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html

 

I've run into somewhat of a similar situation on my 1956 Chevy 3442. It has the same wheel base, 104". According to all of the manuals, the vehicle was designed for 19.5x5.25 8 lug wheels. Good luck finding those, and if you do, they probably won't have the proper 1.62" positive offset.

For me, I have 2 good wheels that cleaned up nicely, but the other two are too far gone to salvage. I'm contemplating drilling out the rivets and having the centers welded into a 19.5x6 wheel blank. Not sure if anyone has ever done this, but it seems like the simplest and most common sense solution to maintain the original look and to maintain clearance. Also, tires are readily available for 19.5x6. There are some custom wheel manufacturers out there that can make some and can play with the offset. Be prepared to pay big buck for those.