Hey guys. Was heading out to Paso and pulled off to the side of the road to find a loose plug wire. After throwing it back in drive, I went to take off and it revved to 2500 or so before it took off and has a very sloppy shift from 2 to 3. It doesn't jump anymore when I put in drive or in reverse. has never once acted up. Always shifted hard until it just stopped. It still drives and I was able to drive it home, but somethin's fucked up. Any ideas? It's got plenty of bright red fluid, I found no leaks. Help a brother out. Bummed I can't drive it. Thanks (luckily it fucked up only 10-15 miles from the pad) Could have fucked up on the way out to Paso.
I hope it's only what I just went through(see powerglide problems) You could just have a clogged up filter. The filter can't supply the trans with enough fluid at driving speeds. drop the pan, and see what youv'e got. sparky
I just had some problems with the turbo 350 in my Chevy pickup. Unfortunately, it was toast. Looks like an expensive rebuild for me. Anyway, a few things you might try to see if it is something minor is to try to shift it manually. Start out in low and as the RPMs go up shift to second, then when the Rs get up again shift to third (drive?). If it will shift manually, it might be that your trans modulator vacuum line came off. It is a round canister looking thing on the passenger side of your trans in the rear. Make sure you check out the vacuum line to make sure it is good without cracks or leaks. If that checks out, your modulator might be going south. Not a real big deal to change, and a fairly cheap part. Also, make sure there are no metal shavings in your trans fluid when you pull the dipstick. Hopefully, there will be none. Also, if your fluid is old, it may cause a little slippage as well. Does it smell kinda burnt? Might be time for a tranny service. Also, your filter might be plugged like jalopy43 said. Hopefully it is something simple for you. Tranny problems SUCK and they can be real expensive to fix. Good luck! E
you might have worn or torn forward clutch lip seal in the forward clutch drum causing a slow or no apply but the intermediate clutch and band are working wich is why you would have your other gears. I would dissagree with a bad modulator valve because althogh that would cause a delayed shift it would be a harsh shift .when I build a th350 for a race car or some thing realy hot for the street I usualy remove and plug the modulator valve so you just run off the govenor with full line pressure for that delalayed hard shift ...good luck adam
or more likely a wiped out input shaft/bushings, causing the stator support and forward drum seailing ring area to also be wiped out. Or a wiped pump bushing, causing the pump to get wiped out and lose pressure. like most of the 350s we take apart....
Check simple thing first. Vaccum line to the modulator. If that is not connected it will do something a lot like what you described. Other than that PM Shifts for the right answer.
the vacuum has nothing to do with the t-350 going into gear. The fucking vacuum line can be on the fucking bench and the tranny will go into gear unless something is fucked up, wore out , low on fluid. You have a major pressure loss for some reason. I'd drop the pan first to see what lurks there. Could be something as simple as the manual valve linkage came loose inside.
crosslley is right the modulator only regulates line pressure no vaccum equals wide open throttle which means delayed hard shifts if the vaccume line is gone the shift will be delayed and harsh all the time squirrl was on the right path with the bushing but you didn't say that you were loosing fluid from the front pump which would usualy happen if those bushings were worn this would show up as fluid splash on the out side of the converter and in the bellhousing. Adam
It will shift automatically at a high rpm with no vacuum hooked up Re-read my post......... I said the t-350 will go into gear with no vacuum line hooked up. My point was that the vacuum is not an issue for the tranny to go into gear. The t-350 will go into the forward and reverse gears, then move the car fine with no vacuum. It actually should go into gear firmer since the main line pressure is raised with NO vacuum to the modulator. If the fluid level is fine , pull the pan to see what lurks in there. THe manual valve in the valve body must be "positioned correctly" for the tranny operate. IF the internal shift linkage nut is loose , the tranny can act stoopid as SoCalSledder posted. I hope this more clear.
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