Early Mustang box in a Model A?

Anybody got some pictures of a early mustang box in a model A -side steer? Do they need to be reversed in order to make them work? Any downsides to these set ups?

 

The 61-65 Falcon/Comet/64-67 Mustang box with integral steering shaft and the later Mustang/Cougar/Comet/Maverick boxes which have stub shafts and rag joints work well rolled over for fore-aft drag link steering and also mounted forward of the engine in a stock-like configuration for cross steering. You must naturally cut short the early box steering shafts.
Rebuild parts are readily available and the boxes are plentiful.
Easy to make up a pitman arm from a stock one and some bar stock is the factory one won't work.
80s Toyota Celicas have boxes that are very similar to the F/C/M boxes but are only about 2/3 the size.

 

The Mustang boxes do not need to be reversed to steer to the left spindle with the pitman arm pointed upward.
I used a box pulled from a manual steer Maverick. 5 turns stop to stop.
Power steer cars were buiilt with external slave cylinders and a slave valve that dealt with the power part of the steering. I'm not sure if their steering wheel turn ratio was the same as manual.

 

Honestly, I have both setups, mustang parallel steer and the vega cross steer. The mustang is a big box, tire hits drag link on LH turns, not a clean setup like a vega. The vega box does require a panhard rod if running a buggy spring, it has to be mounted to clear a header which it usually does but more important, the set up is really clean and mostly hidden. Good luck

 

As others have said the box does work when placed on it's side and used with the pitman arm pointing up. As a matter of fact, Pete&Jakes, the company that kinda got mail order moving did it that way with their four bar kits since the early seventies. If you wish to run split wishbones or hairpins though, the steering geometery isn't great with the arm pointed in the up posistion. Plenty of guys have run it, but it will be more prone to bump steer and slightly "sketchy" handling traits because of non complimentary drag link and wishbone angles. With the four bar, the arm pointed up runs in the same arc as the bars all the way through suspension movement.
Unless you are running a four bar, I would go either to the Vega style box, or I would go to the F-1 type box. Especially if it's a high boy.

 

I did it years ago! It worked great. Had to rework pitman arm only. I will try and send photos.
Photos won't upload I have contacted admin. will try again later

 

I got one it works great it's just not old enough looking for me

 

Thanks guys for the info.

 

Put one on my 1932 works well looks good does not hit anything

 

I have a '68 mustang manual box with a 4 bar in my '30 and it works good and looks good too. As i think was already said the earlier boxes had a long shaft that is harder to work with. I think '68 is when they went to a seperate steering column. I know manual and power boxes are different. I found out a long time ago when working on 60's Mustangs.

 

FYI- I got one with a pitman arm from a 67-68 mustang for a project and never used it, if anyone reading this need one?

 

x2 have on 31 Ford.. 4 bar set up no issues for 25 years

 

I'll call out how I have some MINOR bump steer problems with the Maverick/Mustang box in MY homemade bracket under MY modified stock A ch***is. I split my wishbones, I build my brackets to hold the heims at the rear with guidance on how to measure before you have all the parts built and set in place. I made my wishbone bungs, and more.
The only downside I can think of with having a Maverick/Mustang box with steering to the left spindle is with a little bit of bump steer. It's most noticable while you're driving under 35 mph. If you let go of the steering wheel, the car tracks straight. If you fight it or try to drive it thru, the car wiggles. ****, know the car and drive the road. A twisted up and turning you around road with bumps??? You would never know the difference from having something different. Some exceptions will and do apply, most in my mind are not known as traditional steering.
Start with a fresh or freshened up steering box first. Why put something together to be finished with worn out parts??????

 

Got a early box in my rpu. It's the 65-66 style with the solid steering shaft which is full length. Sector shaft was bought at Total Performance back in the day. Points up. The box bracket is integraded with the four bar bracket. This was done in the late 70's. Still use it today. No bump steer, buggy spring, no panhard bar, no issues really. I'll post pics that i have but they are not real detailed. Maybe it will help.

 

Here are some photos of my model a I built back in the 70's The first ones from a mag. feature on my car and the others show eng clearence and uncut column that worked out just right!

 

Running one on my coupe, W/ P&J parts. Works fine

 

Patrick just stated perfectly what I tried to say in my last post. With hairpins or split bones expect a bit of bump steer. It won't be violent, you aren't going to die from it, but you will know it's there at certain speeds. In my humble opinion, if you are going to go with 'bones or hairpins, a Vega or F-1 really is the way to go. But, if you have a good usable Mustang box and insist on using it, by all means do it.

 

A Panhard rod is not necessary on an early Ford suspension from 28-41 as the springs are mounted under tension. You have to use a spring spreader or other method to mount and dismount the springs.
From 42-48 Ford used a Panhard rod front and rear because they no longer mounted the springs under tension to soften up the suspension for a smoother ride to compete with the IFS cars from GM and others.

 

I just hung a cross spring front axle under my 28 Chrysler. It had an Econoline axle and uses a Mustang steering box. My problem is if I mount the upper 4 bar level with the axle at ride height the pitman arm hits the 4 bar. If I mount the rear 4 bars below the frame they are far from level and run uphill towards the front. Is there another pitman arm that will fit that is longer or has anyone modified one to work? My frame is wide and just sets between the spring perches. The current pitman arm has a curve in it that is facing towards the rear. Can it be reversed? Any help really appreciated!

 

I've had two Model A's with Mustang and 4 bar. Drive like a dream and act like power steering compared to a Vega.

 

I've been using the Mustang box with semi-elliptical springs mounting a narrowed Econoline front axle for many years. Never had a bump steer problem. I just have to figure a way to mount the rear brackets for the 4 bar so they clear the pitman arm. Chuck

 

This picture shows where the pitman arm and steering arm hit the 4 Bar. In this photo the 4 bar mount is forward of where it needs to be. If I mount the top bar at the bottom of the frame it clears better but then the bars are slanting quite a bit up towards the front at ride height. Can I possibly reverse the pitman arm without effecting the geometry? Does anyone make a pitman arm for this situation? Thanks, Chuck