I found this on Portland Craigslist last week and just had to have it. It's a complete, ***led, registered, running and driving 2 1/2 ton 1937 Ford. It's pretty much stock and original with the exception of an 8BA flathead in place of the original 21 stud. The body is in great shape for it's age, but the bed will definitely need to be redone. I am currently working with a group of friends on building a lakester out of a belly tank that I picked up off of the HAMB cl***ifieds. This would make the perfect hauler for the lakester. This is where my questions begin. From the reading I have done online, the original wheels (that look perfect on the truck) appear to be what they call "Widow Makers." After talking with the local tire store, they said that it would be nearly impossible to find a store that will work on these wheels. So, I guess they are out. If I intend on taking this truck any kind of distance, I should probably replace the worm drive rear and the mechanical brakes. I am looking for ideas and opinions. I love the look of the truck as it sits, but would like it to be more "user friendly." Thanks in advance, Mitch This is the rendering of the belly tank courtesy of my friend Chris Hickman (Cheater Slick here on the HAMB)\
That truck is a beauty! The big truck guys over on Ford Truck Enthusiasts have compiled a bunch of info on the WM's. Certain Dodge motor homes used the same bolt pattern as the Fords, and use a common modern tire. There are people who will work on the widowmakers, but do you want to cringe every time you walk past the truck? http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/745682-my-f6-widowmaker-wheel-replacement-experience.html http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/892494-quetion-on-wheels-and-tires-for-f-5-a.html#post8028929
What's the track on it, I have a complete front and rear axle from a 1972 moter home I think it was a D 600.
I think just upgrade the brakes, maybe build a tilt bed and you be in good shape. Here's what mine looks like...
Shouldn't be a problem changing the rearend ***embly for a later model one with better gearing for highway speeds. If you like shifting you could easily keep the 8BA and big 4-speed. I think the 39-52 or so front brakes would interchange to your front spindles giving you hydraulics up front or just swap in the whole modern front axle if possible.
Hey, congratulations Mitch....that's a sweet looking truck, and it's the perfect rig to haul the tankster. Have you thought about picking up a used motorhome? You can get one of those for a song anymore and it would solve all of the drivetrain problems. Just a thought...
Your were leaning on going with a stretched s-10 ch***is I thought....... I showed Christina the pics and she thought it was awesome as well. I wish you would have had time to swing it by last week but sounds like you had a helluva trip. I am digging it! The motorhome drive train is probably the best option for simplicity, durability, and availability. That is what Wayne is doing on his COE.
Thanks for the replies. I will definitely be looking into the Dodge wheels a little more. I have yet to drive it out on the road, but I have a feeling that the top speed will be a little lacking. I think the rearend swap will be pretty straight forward, but I am a little confused on the front end. The spindles look similar to the 37-41 round backs, but just larger. It would be nice to find a way to adapt modern brakes to the stock front axle. -Mitch A Rodder, I keep looking for S10 frames and Pinto motors. But, every time I reply to the ad, they tell me that some guy from Springfield already bought them. He must be hoarding rat rod parts.
Cool CL score! If you decide to use 48-52 brakes, I have a friend with a couple complete F4 front axles near Oregon City.
The wheels from a M400 Dodge motorhome are the same 5 on 8 pattern and are 19.5 tubeless rims - they bolt right on. I have them on my 1940 1 1/2 tons. The frame rail width on the '40 is the same as the motor home chasis that I have but the track width is wider. The motor home front axle is wider than the stock front axle on my '40 so it would take some work to place it under the '40. I'm ***uming that the frame widths on a '37 and '40 are the same but don't know for sure. If you want bigger wheels that 19.5 some I believe Inernationals had the same 5 lug pattern in 22.5 tubleless rims but they are hard to come by. I've been told they were used on old U-Haul trucks. As far as ******s go you can bolt up a Ford top loader to the 8ba with the shifter tower from a jeep t-176 ****** and it will look stock but you'll have 4 syncro gears. The parking brake is an issue since the '37 had the e brake on the trans as did the motorhome rear end I have. Hope this helps.
Congrats, me and a few buddies restored a '36 Ford Flatbead a few years back. We ran into the same issues with the scary split-rim wheels. No one would touch them. If I recall correctly, we eventually found a commercial truck place that would swap the rubber on them.
I spent the day working on the truck. I cleaned the fuel tank, replaced all the fuel lines, installed a new fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. It is running much better now, but acts like it has a vacuum leak. After some more research, these may not be the "widow maker" wheels. I will take them to Les Schwab in the near future for the definitive answer. Hopefully I will be able to take her down the road for the maiden voyage this week. -Mitch
I'll give you a tip about Dodge motorhome brake drums. If what you have are worn out, you won't find more with any ease or without frustration. Dodge stopped production on that stuff in 1977. Brake shoes are a little bit easier to find, not by much. Getting them relined? Relining is an art that is dying and is kept alive mostly by air brake truck brake shoes and some heavy off highway equipment. Custom relining is harder to find by every day. Seen enough of all of the above to know. Drum brake medium duty size components have become hard to find today even if the shop you work at had all the stuff on the shelf 20 years ago when the last of the trucks like that weren't but 3 years old. I've handled 400, 442, 381, 383, 321, 322 brake shoes and asbestos linings for those shoes by the dozens. Others too.
If they are widow makers I have 2 complete sets of non widow maker split rims in 2 different widths that I'm trying to keep from going to s****. You are welcome to them N/C but shipping to OR from SoCal might be an issue. I will be in Sacto in April and I could bring them that far. PM me if interested of if you need any info on Dodge MH running gear. I can send photos & dimensions from my '40. The '40 frame doesn't have a cab or bed so you can see everything clearly. The MH running gear is still bolted to cut off sections of the frame to aid in measurements. Tim
Remember when the Farnmers said nobody wants the old clapped out trucks? They never got outta third and never left the property exept for harvest? Nice hauler ya got there.
Nice old truck you have found. I would find a newer set of front and rear axles. Both for the gear ratio and for modern wheels and brakes. The cab of that truck should be the same as the pickups, but the fenders are different (obviously...). The motorhome or other 1+ ton ch***is ideas would be where I look for donor.
So, after some deliberation, I decided to keep the truck mostly stock. I have shortened and narrowed the bed to a proper proportion and replaced all of the wood in it. I also did a quickie rustoleum black paint job. I am in the process of rewiring the old girl. I would like to hear how you folks tackled the issue of faded gauge faces. It will soon be my daily hauler. (that seems to be the kiss of death with my projects) Thanks, Mitch
True that! Although it looks pretty pathetic with weeds all around it in my driveway. The guy that hooked me up with the chrome wishbone for my coupe also hooked me up with a bag of NOS wiring. So watch for updates soooon. -Mitch
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