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Any good Primer Sealers in a Spray Can

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rice n Beans Garage, Jan 27, 2012.

  1. Rice n Beans Garage
    Joined: Dec 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,751

    Rice n Beans Garage
    Member

    Got a little project and the top coat is wrinkling in a few places, this is a spray can project (Dash) anyone find any good sealers etc.???

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. Willy301
    Joined: Nov 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,426

    Willy301
    Member

    You can have custom stuff put into an aerosol can, but I have not seen a good sealer in a can...
     
  3. HomemadeHardtop57
    Joined: Nov 15, 2007
    Posts: 4,340

    HomemadeHardtop57
    Member

    SEM makes a good rattle can urethane primer that any topcoat will go over. I use this for small spot repairs when shooting single stage or base/clear paints from a gun. Your local bodyshop supply place will carry this.

    If you're just using rattle can paint for the color..for something small like a dash or trim piece or something like that.....don't waste the money for the SEM stuff and just get some sandable hi build 2K rustoleum from auto zone or advance in spray cans. That's all you'll need for priming/sealing. Rustoleum also make a nice spray bomb etch primer that you can lay down first on bare metal..then the hi build spray bomb...sand with 320 then spray bomb color..

    I'm not sure how big of a piece you're doing..but for something small this would be fine. It's all about the prep.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2012
  4. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,841

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Ive used enamel spray can primer and shot real enamel over it,,,,
     
  5. chinarus
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 536

    chinarus
    Member
    from Georgia

    Can u put bondo under or over the SEM primer or Rustoleum?
    What about some of etching primers in a rattle can?
    I have read some of the other threads about not doing that. My experience years ago ago was bondo on bare metal and then seal with primer.

    I am working on filing holes on a firewall and would like to get it covered to avoid rust.
    Final paint coat will not be from a spray can.
     
  6. Napa has a self etching Primer this is a good base for auto paint
     
  7. kingofthestreet
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 43

    kingofthestreet
    Member

    Sherwin-Williams (Auto Paint Div) makes primer and final sealer in a spray can. The sealer works great for small jobs....
     
  8. chinarus
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 536

    chinarus
    Member
    from Georgia

    Are any of these brands compatible with filler aka bondo?
    Either under side or topside
     
  9. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,356

    Hnstray
    Member
    from Quincy, IL

    I use SEM Self Etching Primer from a spray can for lots of uses around the shop and love the stuff. Haven't done very much with it and bondo in combination, so can't really give a quality opinion on that. However, have sprayed various rattle can colors, both enamel and whatever over the SEM and do not recall ever having the paint lift.

    Ray
     
  10. You should probably pop over onto one of the autobody forums, as they're gonna be up on all the current stuff, but this is my $0.02:

    You don't wanna use an etch primer over bondo, as it could potentially hurt bondo adhesion. And you don't really wanna bondo on top of any primer, as it's adhesion won't be optimal. People do both all the time, and both work without hiccups sometimes, but you're opening yourself up to trouble if you do either.

    My method is to etch prime, and then when you're ready to do body work, sand back the areas that need work, bondo, and then build prime, seal, etc over the hole piece.

    Hope that helps.
     
  11. I should add that it's my understanding that the only primer that is acceptable to use under all your bodywork is an epoxy type, as they're generally very hard, and you can get the necessary tooth (or mechanical adhesion) that way. But even when you watch those restoration shows, where they blast and epoxy prime the cars, a lot of times you see them sanding back the primer anywhere they're doing heavy filler work.

    Also, working with a really light filler, like icing, or glazing putty over primer is totally acceptable. And when I say light, I mean the filler is light-weight, but more importantly, it is only meant to be applied lightly, as in finish work.

    Sorry if this is sounding like body repair for dummies. I have no idea what your experience level is, so I am trying my best to cover all of the bases.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2012
  12. chinarus
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 536

    chinarus
    Member
    from Georgia

    I was going to start a thread on the subject and noticed this one was already open. I haven't dealt much with either etching primer or epoxy primer but was hoping there was a good primer in a spray can you could put filler on top.
    Guess it would have to epoxy according to all the experts in the other threads and this one as well..

    The challenge seems to be the small touch up guns have the wrong nozzle to spray epoxy primer?
     
  13. HomemadeHardtop57
    Joined: Nov 15, 2007
    Posts: 4,340

    HomemadeHardtop57
    Member


    bondo on the bare metal..then the SEM rattle can primer if you are going to shoot urethane topcoat from a gun. Rustoleum 2K rattle can filler primer will work also depending on what kind of paint you are putting overtop of it.

    I do this all the time for small stuff. On my last car I shot the trim pieces with rattle can etch and rustoleum primer, then used a 2 part single stage paint from a gun with no compatibility issues.

    I use the etch primer on things that don't need filler work like trim pieces...ch***is...etc
     
  14. Rice n Beans Garage
    Joined: Dec 17, 2006
    Posts: 1,751

    Rice n Beans Garage
    Member

    Thanks for all the great input,

    its a dash that was painted prior, looks like an acrylic enamel, I shot some primer on some bad spots and wet sanded it with 400, after painting it with Rustoleum 2x enamel, it started to wrinkle in some areas even where it was primed it looked like I shot lacquer over enamel in those spots, I sanded it down again and primed the whole dash when it cured and I painted it it happened again some in the same areas..

    I found a primer sealer by Rustoleum I was thinking of using to seal it before painting
     
  15. chinarus
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 536

    chinarus
    Member
    from Georgia

  16. Epoxy primer on clean rust free metal on the bottom,helps hold out any rust and moisture,then body filler,catalyzed 2k primer then paint. Usually doing any painting is time consuming and a lot of tedious work,can be expensive. It's no fun doing it twice. You don't have to buy expensive materials,there's a lot of good middle of the road stuff out there!!!!! You can use etching primer under your body filler instead of epoxy,you want to apply just enough to cover the raw metal. Don't try to use it as a filling primer. Etching primer (dupli-color)is not moisture resistant and should be covered soon with your 2k primer
     
  17. chinarus
    Joined: Nov 9, 2010
    Posts: 536

    chinarus
    Member
    from Georgia

  18. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,361

    AHotRod
    Member

    Anyone else have some input?
     
  19. buckd
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 335

    buckd
    Member


    I use Evercoat Quantum in conjuction with SEM self etching primer and have for several years for all spot bodywork and small projects. SEM products are very user friendly and perform much like catalized (spraygun type) canned paints. Have been real pleased with all results so far. BUCKD
     
  20. Try the Preval spraygun system. I have sprayed old coke coolers, dash boards, license plates, dog dish hub caps, etc using dupont centari enamel and the Preval gun. I have also shot epoxy enamel primer with it. It low pressure and very little over spray.

    here is there web site: http://www.preval.com

    Any Ace, Home Depot, etc, carriers this unit. The bottles are made of gl*** and they are calibrated marks for mixing. The bomb units are inexpensive 3-$4 each.

    Good Luck
     

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