Got a little project and the top coat is wrinkling in a few places, this is a spray can project (Dash) anyone find any good sealers etc.??? Thanks in advance
SEM makes a good rattle can urethane primer that any topcoat will go over. I use this for small spot repairs when shooting single stage or base/clear paints from a gun. Your local bodyshop supply place will carry this. If you're just using rattle can paint for the color..for something small like a dash or trim piece or something like that.....don't waste the money for the SEM stuff and just get some sandable hi build 2K rustoleum from auto zone or advance in spray cans. That's all you'll need for priming/sealing. Rustoleum also make a nice spray bomb etch primer that you can lay down first on bare metal..then the hi build spray bomb...sand with 320 then spray bomb color.. I'm not sure how big of a piece you're doing..but for something small this would be fine. It's all about the prep.
Can u put bondo under or over the SEM primer or Rustoleum? What about some of etching primers in a rattle can? I have read some of the other threads about not doing that. My experience years ago ago was bondo on bare metal and then seal with primer. I am working on filing holes on a firewall and would like to get it covered to avoid rust. Final paint coat will not be from a spray can.
Sherwin-Williams (Auto Paint Div) makes primer and final sealer in a spray can. The sealer works great for small jobs....
I use SEM Self Etching Primer from a spray can for lots of uses around the shop and love the stuff. Haven't done very much with it and bondo in combination, so can't really give a quality opinion on that. However, have sprayed various rattle can colors, both enamel and whatever over the SEM and do not recall ever having the paint lift. Ray
You should probably pop over onto one of the autobody forums, as they're gonna be up on all the current stuff, but this is my $0.02: You don't wanna use an etch primer over bondo, as it could potentially hurt bondo adhesion. And you don't really wanna bondo on top of any primer, as it's adhesion won't be optimal. People do both all the time, and both work without hiccups sometimes, but you're opening yourself up to trouble if you do either. My method is to etch prime, and then when you're ready to do body work, sand back the areas that need work, bondo, and then build prime, seal, etc over the hole piece. Hope that helps.
I should add that it's my understanding that the only primer that is acceptable to use under all your bodywork is an epoxy type, as they're generally very hard, and you can get the necessary tooth (or mechanical adhesion) that way. But even when you watch those restoration shows, where they blast and epoxy prime the cars, a lot of times you see them sanding back the primer anywhere they're doing heavy filler work. Also, working with a really light filler, like icing, or glazing putty over primer is totally acceptable. And when I say light, I mean the filler is light-weight, but more importantly, it is only meant to be applied lightly, as in finish work. Sorry if this is sounding like body repair for dummies. I have no idea what your experience level is, so I am trying my best to cover all of the bases.
I was going to start a thread on the subject and noticed this one was already open. I haven't dealt much with either etching primer or epoxy primer but was hoping there was a good primer in a spray can you could put filler on top. Guess it would have to epoxy according to all the experts in the other threads and this one as well.. The challenge seems to be the small touch up guns have the wrong nozzle to spray epoxy primer?
bondo on the bare metal..then the SEM rattle can primer if you are going to shoot urethane topcoat from a gun. Rustoleum 2K rattle can filler primer will work also depending on what kind of paint you are putting overtop of it. I do this all the time for small stuff. On my last car I shot the trim pieces with rattle can etch and rustoleum primer, then used a 2 part single stage paint from a gun with no compatibility issues. I use the etch primer on things that don't need filler work like trim pieces...ch***is...etc
Thanks for all the great input, its a dash that was painted prior, looks like an acrylic enamel, I shot some primer on some bad spots and wet sanded it with 400, after painting it with Rustoleum 2x enamel, it started to wrinkle in some areas even where it was primed it looked like I shot lacquer over enamel in those spots, I sanded it down again and primed the whole dash when it cured and I painted it it happened again some in the same areas.. I found a primer sealer by Rustoleum I was thinking of using to seal it before painting
Came across these "scientific" results which are very interesting. http://www.autobodystore.com/filler_&_epoxy.shtml Bondo on bare metal is the way I have always done things so I will go with HomeMadeHardtop57's advice. thanks
Epoxy primer on clean rust free metal on the bottom,helps hold out any rust and moisture,then body filler,catalyzed 2k primer then paint. Usually doing any painting is time consuming and a lot of tedious work,can be expensive. It's no fun doing it twice. You don't have to buy expensive materials,there's a lot of good middle of the road stuff out there!!!!! You can use etching primer under your body filler instead of epoxy,you want to apply just enough to cover the raw metal. Don't try to use it as a filling primer. Etching primer (dupli-color)is not moisture resistant and should be covered soon with your 2k primer
Since I didn't know what you meant by 2K primer I did a search and found this SprayMax brand which looks pretty good: http://moparforums.com/forums/f6/great-epoxy-primer-ratlle-can-8884/ http://www.sgcardetail.com/USC-3680032-SprayMax-2K-Epoxy-Rust-Cure-Aerosol-Primer-Prodview.html http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/spray-max-2k-epoxy-rust-cure-primer-3680032-p-14526.aspx Looks like Eastwood sells it as well: http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-epoxy-primer-aerosol.html
I use Evercoat Quantum in conjuction with SEM self etching primer and have for several years for all spot bodywork and small projects. SEM products are very user friendly and perform much like catalized (spraygun type) canned paints. Have been real pleased with all results so far. BUCKD
Try the Preval spraygun system. I have sprayed old coke coolers, dash boards, license plates, dog dish hub caps, etc using dupont centari enamel and the Preval gun. I have also shot epoxy enamel primer with it. It low pressure and very little over spray. here is there web site: http://www.preval.com Any Ace, Home Depot, etc, carriers this unit. The bottles are made of gl*** and they are calibrated marks for mixing. The bomb units are inexpensive 3-$4 each. Good Luck