I may have over looked these threads but Does anyone have a thread or good pics of how to correct the tapered pillars after you chop a top. and maybe a good chopping thread for this type of car? I have a 30 Dodge and I am getting to the point to take 3 inches off. There is tapering pretty much on everything. I tried to find the best places to put the tape were the internal supports will not be split up or removed. Does it matter if the tape on the body meet in the same spot on the doors? This is my first chop so I dont need to get myself into more of bind I am already good at that. Thanks
Looks like your A pillar near the windshield... it'd be better to take it out nearest to the top of the windshield that way it's less tapered in that area!! Not that big of a deal to split both top and bottom and make them line back up!
I was looking at that but I was trying to preserve the hinge area. There is only 1 inch from the hinge to were the window curve starts. I was thinking hidden hinges but I am low on the cash as usual open to suggestions THANKS
Not sure what you mean by splitting top and bottom There is alot to the Hinge area inside the pillar.
X2, cut the W/S post higher up. No matter where that slanted post gets cut, you will have to slice vertically both mating cuts. Stretching/spreading the top, and slimming the lower. and you will end up with areas in the jambs that don't line up, and those will need vertical slices, reshape, etc. On that Dodge, as well as many other brands, the side windows are much taller than the windshield, and a decent looking door window chop, makes the W/S too short. What I did was section out some of the blanked panel behind the visor...at least 1". Then take 1" out of the visor. It helps.
Ok I am getting it. More surgery than just cutting out a 3 inch section. Preserving the taper. I understand about the windsheild area it is much narrower than the door windows. I don know how much of the windsheild I can do I want to use the windsheild vent it rolls up and down about an inch and already have my 55 olds dash set up for it as vent to the floor like the original dash worked Thank you
30 must be the last year for that. The one in the pic is 31 8cyl car that swings open, so there was nothing up top to deal with. As far as where to cut the doors; no, they don't need to be cut in the same place. But do look/measure where is the best. There will be places in the jambs that will not line up, no matter where you cut. Not noticable till you really measure close.
Ok Thank you I am selling off all my not needed 30 parts if you need something I will see if i have it
Make sure you window guides will line up in the door also after you chop them, I had to widen my T coupe doors to get them to match up so the window woudn't get in a bind. Takes lots of looking and gawking!!!
Here's some pics I remembered that I had when I chopped mine about three years ago. It was my first attempt, so it might be a little crude compared to some of the great work you see here. It's just common sense, so just go for it. P.S. Forget the plasma...just use cutting wheels.
See how far down Fleetside cut the slits? Long slits make it all blend better. If you don't go down far enough, it will look like a stump at the bottom where it starts to taper.
No you don't wanna use a plasma... the cut off wheel is your friend!!! Straight cuts too so you can join them back together!!!
Here is my chop map! I picked the spots with the least taper and also the spots that would have the least affect on the inside structure of the hinge area. I am going to cut out the front outer skin along the top front. On the inside of the door jam I am going to keep all the inside structure and cut out 3 in below all of that. When its all cut I hopefully will just have to lower it down and it will fit together like a puzzle peice Note Hopefully LOL I still have to make cross braces for the roof and lower half. My door window openings will go down from 13 inches to 10 and the windsheild will drop down from 11 to 8 with another one inch reduction for the raised dash vent. Any recommendations ? Thanks
That looks pretty good... Another thing, when you cut the upper hinge out and need to line it back up, use some .25" round rod, run it the bottom hinge and the top hinge to keep them aligned, if you don't the door will bind and not open!!
Looking at the front head on, is the width of the posts at the top differ from the width at the bottom? On an A it is and that needs to be accounted for as well. Edit .... that wasn't to clear, I mean from one post to the other. Not the posts individually. In other words the windshield is wider at the top than the bottom on an A and that has to be dealt with.
Thanks Chaddilac and A Rodder I will do that with the .25 rod and check the windsheild again. What is your opinion on this style cut rather than a strait across cut to the back window. This car is chopped 5 inches mine is only going 3. Is this a safer style cut to make as far as keeping true and clean
you ask a 100 people how to chop it and you will get a 100 different answers. trick is to remove your 3" from the straightest areas. you will have to do a few relief cuts in the back to keep everything flowing together. glad you chose something like this rather than a bigger roof. you will do fine.
Well my first chop it came out great. I cut in were the visor goes to hide the taper differance. I added metal supports into the pillars. The windsheild did not line up so I sliced it and laid it back about a 1/4 inch. I filled in the slice and ground down and remade the body line. I am a little rough with the grinder. The top seemed to be just a little wider wher ethey met in the back part. So when I locked it down it had a very slight rise in the center. Very minimal. I just rolled the dice after hours of thinking whether or not to cut down the middle but I think its fine. Thank you everyone that had some input!
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