Can someone tell me what motor this is?

i was looking for a motor for my 52 chevy 210. this guy has this one. he said its out of a 58 chevy. thanks, vinnie

 

Looks like a 235 Chevy 6 to me. The guy's probably right!

 

Looks correct for that year model as far as I can see. Has the correct side mount locations, the oil fill/breather cap is in the right location. '59 and later are moved to back to about the middle to clear the lower hoods after '58. It is a full pressure lube 235. The last ones like it were made for '62 models. Good, reliable engines.

Ray

 

Is there a cereal number?

 

ill get the number tomorrow. will it bolt up to my 3 speed?

 

To use your stock '52 tranny you'll need to use your current bellhousing which is a bolt on deal. Same block pattern. However, you need to take into consideration what starter/flywheel setup to use. As I recall, the 6 volt Chevy starter/flywheel ring gears are different than the 12 volt models that began in '55. It may be that your 216 flywheel will fit the 235 crankshaft flange, but I don't know for sure if that is the case. Surely a Stovebolt guy will happen along and clarify that issue.

If you choose to convert to 12 volt, or already have, then you should be able to use the '58 pieces, or '55/'62 parts if you have to find them.

Ray

 

it was 12volt when i got it. thanks

 

these are the numbers he could give me
GM15
3836848

 

that's the head, the numbers you want are near the starter, and stamped near the base of the distributor.

 

And that's the "good" head, too.

 

i asked for that #...ill have to go check it out myself

 

When did Kellogg's have anything to do with engines? However, it probably does have a serial number.

 

Show a little respect or he may Shred your Wheat!


Ray

 

Buncha flakes....

Cosmo

 

im going to look at the motor on thursday. he said it was rebuilt. the car was sold b4 he got the motor and trans back. if this is true? how much should i offer him? he wants to sell the motor and transmission as 1 piece. he's not a "car" guy...so talking on the phone to him is a little hard. is there anything i should be looking for??? what would be bad? and what would be good? thanks again, vinnie

 

When you can't spell (and/or don't know the meaning of correctly spelled words)...then perhaps it's the poster that is the flake...

And cosmo, "buncha" is slang..."bunch of" is correct... who can't spell...???

R-

 

What he said, Squirrel your post are always positive and helpful .Thanks

 

Any head is "good" head.

 

behind the distributor is a flange that has some stamped numbers and letters on it. this is where the serial will be. clean it off really well. trust me they are there. it will tell you what year exactly it is. looks to be a nice 235. without looking at the side with the distributor cap i couldn't tell you if it was the better 261. doubt it is if it came out of a car though. I don't think you need to take the belhousing off. just take the transmission off the belhousing and yours should fit the four bolts from the old one. unless the engine has a synchronized trans on it. you would have to change the belhousing to yours at that point.

 

Unless you can fire it up your buying an unproven mill....compression check is your next good bet but still some unknown factors without cracking it open...I would pay the great unknown price AKA the core value....that is of course unless he can show you the wad of reciepts for the rebuild....

 

if true it would be a 235

 

I agree that it looks about right for a 58. The water pump is lower and longer. That is sometimes a problem with 54 and older trucks and cars. Some of the vendors sell a special short-shaft water pump - and there is an adapter plate available to mount a 216 water pump in the "high" position. Look here:
http://pugetsoundvintagechevrolet.org/Programs/6%20cylinder%20engines%20with%20photos.pdf

 

If, as the OP indicated in his first post, he has the original trans in his '52, and further, IF this later engine has a stick bellhousing, the '52 transmission case bolt pattern does not match the '55 and later pattern that would be on the '58 bell. And, the clutch linkage in the '55 up bells is different than the earlier models.....also making use of the '52 bellhousing necessary IF the stock '52 trans is to be used.

Further, what is the comment about "if it's the synchronized trans" stuff?? Both the '52 and the '58 used transmisions that were synchro on 2nd and 3rd only. It wasn't until around 1965 that Chevy offered the full synchro 3 speed manuals.

Ray

 

The engine number will tell you what month and day it was assembled, and what kind of engine it is (like if it's from a car or truck, what transmission it had, etc), but the suffix code might or might not tell you what year it is. They used the same code on some engines for several years. To figure out the year, you need the casting date which is cast near the starter, or hidden by the starter. It's a letter followed by two to four numbers, like D 14 8

 

here's what i have
con8 e 18 close to the oil dip stick is 15

 

here are some pics...

 

X 2 on Salty. You need a compression test as an absolute minimum. I'd fire it up where it sits if there is oil in it. You need to hear it. Listen for bearing noise, valve train noise, skips and misses. All you need is a battery, jumper cables, a clip lead to energize the coil and enough gas to fill the carb bowl. Otherwise offer what a core is worth.

 

E 1 8 is May 1st 1958

 

thanks again guys. what does the first set of numbers mean?

 

Which set, CON 8? That's the conveyor number it was cast on, I think. Doesn't mean anything to us...for internal foundry use only