I have few things gone on the driver side fire wall of my 1957. I was wondering of you guys could point me in the right direction and pictures would be awesome. Here is the only picture I got
If it's a '57 Chevy, the voltage regulator would be on the radiator support or fender...not the firewall. I 'd suggest the electrical "forks" hanging there would be for a "dogbone." However, I don't see a brake master cylinder, or line either...perhaps the pic isn't shot high enuff... R-
After examining the picture again...I've come to the conclusion that that is NOT a '57 Chevy firewall...so, Mr. Williams, what KIND of a '57 is it...??? Is it even GM...the six looks like it however...I'm at a loss... R-
This is a 57 Chevy truck firewall lol I did for get to mention that sorry. Ok so that's just the horn relay and voltage regulator is on core support hmm I will look again. I figured this might be the place because of the cave man marks on the firewall lol.
If I wanted to convert it from the generator to a alternator what do I need to do with this wires? Or should I stay with a external regulator?
Up to you but its really simple. One small wire is switched 12 volts, the heavy red wire that connects to the lug by itself on the back of the alternator goes to the battery + or heavy post of the starter, whichever is easier and the third wire is for an idiot light and typically not used. The plug with the two wires is about 4 bucks at autozone in the help section, use the small red for switched 12v. Scot
Scot>>>>>>One small wire is switched 12 volts, the heavy red wire that connects to the lug by itself on the back of the alternator goes to the battery + or heavy post of the starter, whichever is easier and the third wire is for an idiot light and typically not used.>>> On the 3-wire 10si or 12si gm internally regulated series or clones, the small terminal #1 is usually switched thru a heavy 10 or 20 ohm resistor with an optional idiot light across the resistor. The small terminal #2 is in fact needed for voltage sensing by the internal regulator usually at a circuit point that is remote from the alternator. However, for those who might be electrically-challenged by 3-wire setup, they can be easily converted to 1-wire setups by simply pigtailing the sensing terminal 2 directly to the alternator bat lug, leaving the switch terminal 1 unused. 1-wire setups sometimes require revving the engine a bit to get them to start charging because they must rely on self-excitation from residual magnetism instead of excitation by the battery thru the ignition switch. Jack E/NJ
Awesome what about the wires on the fire wall where the old external regulator went? I don't think I just leave them Unhooked and all out there like that right?
I'd remove them or at least insulate the ends with tape or solderless connectors. The heavy wire that originally connected to the old regulator's BAT terminal may still be connected to the ammeter if the truck had one. In fact, if this wire is still in good condition, you could simply connect it to the alternator's output lug and you're done. The other two original wires to the old regulator's ARM and FLD terminals aren't used. Good luck. Jack E/NJ
Jack, I do the one wire trick on all of my racecars, I just got tired of having to blip the throttle on my 46 pickup to get it to charge, so I finally wired it right and it was a lot better. I hadan oversize pulley on the alternator to slow it down at high RPM's and I really had to hit it pretty good to get it to charge Scot
Yeah, Scot, I wound up doing the same thing for the street. Connect terminal 1 to the ignition switch but keep terminal 2 pigtailed to the lug...sort of a 2-wire setup. 8^) Jack E/NJ
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