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Lets discuss BUSHINGS on split rear bones please

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1950ChevySuburban, Feb 2, 2012.

  1. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,185

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    Wondering what are you guys using for the front bushings on split rear bones?
    I want to make a good choice, all my forward torque goes through these things! They also have to flex as I drive and corner.

    Me, I'm using split '36 rears that almost meet at the front.

    What are you using and why? THANKS!
     
  2. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,185

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    Bump for the morning crowd
     
  3. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    I'm not running split rears but I do have split front bones and I use 6T truck tie rod ends. Same would work for the rear.
     
  4. I am not a big fan of the neopreme bushings, I had them disintegrate on a car. I prefer heims or tie rod ends.
     
  5. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member

    Split? how far apart at the front?

    If you are going to run the front ends very close together, some guys are using a yoke from a front bone to make the 35/6 into a true wishobe with a ball mount.

    If you are thinking about running the front ends out at the frame rail, .....don't.
     
  6. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    I have this set up. I like it. No bind. Using '48 front bones, not '36 rears.
     
  7. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,074

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    I'm currently welding on a Model-A yoke and using a '46 rubberball location on a reversed '46 center crossmember. Otherwise I'd recommend heavy duty Truck tie rod ends.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member

    Ha, my spelling ain't so good in the early morning "wishobe"?

    here is mine:
     

    Attached Files:

  9. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,652

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    Attached Files:

  10. Da' Bomb
    Joined: Apr 8, 2005
    Posts: 438

    Da' Bomb
    Member

    When I split mine, I went with tie rod ends

    Pat
     
  11. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,652

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    Tie rod ends will let both wheels go up and down together but when one wheel goes up and the other down, like over bumps or uneven pavement at some point they will bind.
     
  12. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,185

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    Mine meet near the center, under the transmission. Have a mount that accepts bushings, and the bones are tapped for 3/4 fine thread already, so using tierod ends is out.

    I have a set of Pete and Jake's bushings that my builder uses, but they seem small.
    I'm not building high horsepower, but I want good daily driveability and reliabilty.
     
  13. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,652

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    Did you check out the Uni-Ball setup like I used?
     
  14. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,185

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    That Uni-Ball looks great, how much was it?
     
  15. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,652

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    It's a bit pricey @ $100 but it's a sturdy piece, uses a 3/4" bolt that goes through the ball. IMO, It's the best alternative to a torque tube.
     
  16. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,185

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

  17. F-6Garagerat
    Joined: Apr 12, 2008
    Posts: 2,652

    F-6Garagerat
    Member

    yeah, like i said, it will allow the rear axle to move the same way a torque tube would. it was the best thing i found to let everything opperate properly.
     
  18. Ford tie rod ends work real well and is the most common traditional solution for you problem. I have also used hiem joints they make for a noisey and rough ride but they also work.

    I have also seen than done with the original Ford ball and socket. Yopu obviously have to have two balls from the wish bone and two sockets from the ch***is. I don't know how well it works this way I have only used the rie rod end or hiem joint personally.
     
  19. DYNODANNY
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,411

    DYNODANNY
    Member

    On my 36 I split the rear bones due to the fact I was removing the torque tube. I used ford style tie rod ends. I would have rather welded on a ball mount just because it would be more rigid. I don't have a torque arm either but I have been driving like this for 2 years now and I'm tough on this lil pick up with a lil hemi.
     
  20. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,185

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    I looked at the Pete and Jake's site, found the ends I have are #1206 Heavy Duty Adjustable Ends. They just seem small to me and easy to wear out.
     

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