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Square in a round hole. 33 ford pickup

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BISHOP, Feb 2, 2012.

  1. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    Im working on my door windows, they are square. The window frame is rounded at the top and bottom.

    My question is... The window rubber lays in the channel and does not curve at the top, the top removable panel gets a straight piece...so does it leave a gap at the top corners???. Do I just live with that gap.??

    I think it looks like poop at the top.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012
  2. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    The gl*** goes up into the top of the door and seals against the rubber on the removable panel. When it stops the gl*** is above the radiused window opening. No gap will show.
     
  3. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    It looks bad with the window down.... Has anyone done a trick to make it look good, or better.
     
  4. Straightpipes
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,084

    Straightpipes
    Member

    I think that you are doing something wrong. How about a picture. I hate when windows look like poop........
     
  5. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    All the pieces of window trim,(rubber) are straight, but the window frame is curved, I couldnt mess that up if I tried.

    It just dont look finished with the gap at the curve, on the top of the window.
     
  6. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    It's a 75 year old truck built to haul ****!! They never were made to be a show vehicle. They do not leak air with the reproduction weather stripping properly installed. You can spend a lot of money at a custom fabricating shop to alter the door if it bothers you that much but personally I enjoy the old time look.
     
  7. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    I'm having trouble visualizing the issue here, probably because I haven't had my morning coffee yet. Can you post a picture of the offending issues? Thanks.
     
  8. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,504

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Maybe lower the lower bump stop. Then the gl*** will go down farther. I think that your talking about when the gl*** is rolled down ??
     
  9. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    This is what Im talking about.

    If this is what its supposed to look like, then I guess thats how it will be.

    I just thought it looked unfinished.
     

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  10. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    Am I being too picky.
     
  11. VoodooTwin
    Joined: Jul 13, 2011
    Posts: 3,453

    VoodooTwin
    Member
    from Noo Yawk

    I see what you mean now. Is that the way it's supposed to be? Mine's not nearly as far along as yours, or I'd check mine.
     
  12. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    I guess thats the only way it can be.
     
  13. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    I bet the bodyline from the door to the cab be off bothers the **** out of you too. Remember, fords were built to be cheap.
     
  14. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    Yea, matching that body line was real important. I went through alot to get it right, I cut the cab to get everything lined up with the doors, then cut the bottom of the cab front and back to match the bottom of the doors.
    I just want my stuff to look better than the next guys.

    As far as that gap with the window rubber goes, I am going to fix that too.
     
  15. AlbuqF-1
    Joined: Mar 2, 2006
    Posts: 909

    AlbuqF-1
    Member
    from NM

    On my F-1, the door is similarly constructed, the top/rear of the door and gl*** is radiused. There are sheet metal tabs in the radiused part of the door (between inner and outer skin) that are used to anchor the felts, creating a matching radius. The tabs are just spot-welded on. You could do something similar real easily (if you haven't painted yet, anyway)
     

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