Sick of this Ford carb issue!!!!

1978 Ford 200 motor with 1980 cylinder head.
c4 trans.
In a 1962 Ford Fairlane

Bought this 1bbl (#7-7714) and it has all these ports and that electric thing. Think the guy didnt understand when I said its going in a 62 Ford
Bought this stupid spacer and tried to blockoff the EGR... it leaked gas from there.

Car almost, BUT didn't start.

The bolts for the spacer are spaced on the cylinder head at 3 1/4 apart.
ON THE SPACER they are 2 7/8 apart
what am I doing wrong, what are all the ports on the carb for?
So confused, but not ready to back down.
Any ideas where I can get a spacer with no EGR and that same bolt spacing?
What was a UREMCO 7-7714 born as?
Maybe I can just use a 60s carb and spacer?
Already tried the 2bbl with a spacer from Ford6, no good.
Already searched forums and internet, struck out.

Im getting ready to say, lets trade

 

I'm not sure what spacer and bolts your are talking about but,you can use your egr plate and block off where the egr valve use to go by making an aluminum plate to cover the round and oval holes on the side,also use a gasket.Make sure those two p***ages arent corroded through,they must not connect. Does that egr plate fit on the carb studs on the head? does the carb fit the studs on the head? I would look for an older model carb to use, but you could block all extra fittings with va***e caps except that fitting up top with the electrical connection looks like it is the bowl vent, that must be open when running. I would hook up a ported va***e line to your spark advance(no va***e at idle, va***e when you open the throttle) and I would hook up a pcv valve. Again, I'd try to get an older carb(pre 74). good luck, Tom

 

Nevermind about the large fitting up top, it has a normal bowl vent.

 

Thanks Tom

 

If gas is leaking out the egr ports it sounds like the carb is flooding.Also,was this engine running? Does it have good compression? Does it have good spark?

 

Uhhh,, Nice Fairlane and great engine choice, torquey' inline six is a fine cruisin'.
That "feedback" carb and egr setup should be spare parts under your bench. Simple tuning of fuel and ignition is the best feature of the Ford sixes but by late 70's attempts to make them run extremely lean eliminated their simplicity advantage.

Earlier 70's carbs like the Carter YF and RBS used on 170, 200 and 250's are available used and "rebuilt" and probably will have better drivability. 60's Carbs like the Ford/Autolite 1100 and Holley 1904's were used on Ford and other sixes - smaller and bigger than your 200 and are usable. There are minor size ( cfm) ratings differences between these but a good running "close to spec" is better than poor running " correct application" carb.

"Early" heads had the smaller carb spacing and later (@1970) use the wider. Adapters or just egging out carb's holes can adapt them... , Yes early 70s spacers are similar W/ O EGR and almost any can fit.

here's some OEM typ Falcon six Holley, Autolite and Carter carbs that can be used:


For more complete info and ideas, I'd recommend a visit to a neighbor forum frequented by a lot of Hamb'ers:

http://fordsix.com/forum/index.php

Ford Six Performance. Those guys eat, sleep and poop accurate info on Ford Six building and mods

Have Fun

'D8DE- '78 head with adapters for Holley/weber 5200 Progressive 2 bbl:




same with Holley 7448:

And 250 with a few more mods

 

What you have is a Holley model 6145 from a 1981 Ford like a Fairmont with a 3.3L inline six. The 6145 is the same as a 1945 only with electronic feedback. This carburetor incorporates a duty cycle solenoid which provides a limited regulation of air fuel ratio in response to electrical signals from the spark control computer. The solenoid meters the main fuel system and operates in parallel with the conventional fixed main metering jet. When there is no electrical signal applied to the solenoid, the valve spring pushes upward through the main system fuel valve, fully uncovering the solenoid main metering orifice so that the richest condition exists within the carburetor for any given air flow. If a full 12 volts is applied the solenoid will close giving the leanest condition.

This solenoid can not be byp***ed so bottom line is this will not work without the spark control computer and all related parts. These carbs were a pain in the neck when new it was the beginning of the computer operated vehicle but about 8 years before the manufactures got it figured out, simplified it and went to fuel injection.

 

There's no way I'd run that carburetor in a '60s car. I'd buy this Carter YF or this one (no affiliation) and rebuild it. The second one should have the same bolt spacing as the emissions carburetor, although I find the manual choke on the first one more appealing (not sure what Fairlanes had stock).

-Dave

 

I've got a friend running a 1 bbl Rochester off of a early 60's Chevy on his 200. He said it had the same bolt spacing and was a direct bolt on. You might want to check into one....

 

Thanks for all the input guys. The guy that has my car actually recommended that I go back to my Holley 350cfm. I caved and bought another one. He says the my other one was probably screwed up. He'll probably have it done this week. He said that the other shop probably screwedd up my 1st one and hen simply blamed it on " its too much carb for your 200". I'll let every one know how it turns out