Pic request: Shoebox with dropped uprights AND Aerostar coils

Go man go!

 

Thats a good info,thanks for sharing!

 

Installed the shocks this afternoon and afterward, my friend Max noticed today that the driver's side top A-arm was sitting higher than the p***enger side top arm. Got to looking at it and found that the nylock nut on the back side of the pinch bolt on the top trunion that holds the upright to the top A-arm (see the second picture on post #29 above) is catching on the back underside of the A-arm. The other side seems to clear, but it is really close. I noticed there was hardly any room between the nylock and the underside of the A-arm when I ***embled it, but it was clearing. With everything bolted together it is now catching. Looks like I am going to have to pull the shock, put back in my all thread tool to hold the spring in place, take out the two bolts that hold the upper A-arm to the frame/crossmember, tip it up and grind out a notch on the underside of both of the A-arms to clear the nylock that holds the top pinch bolt. IF YOU USE ONE OF THESE KITS/SETUPS BE SURE TO CHECK THIS DURING ***EMBLY.

I will think about it tomorrow

 

So, yesterday I removed the shocks, put the all thread tool back inside the Spring and tightened it up so I could relieve the Spring pressure. Remember, the engine and body are off and I am dealing only with the weight of the frame, so using a jack to hold the Spring compressed won't work.

I took the two bolts that hold the top pivot shaft to the frame which allowed me to tilt the top A-arm out. I then removed the pinch bolt at the top of the upright and notched the underside of the A-arm where the nylock on the pinch bolt had been hanging up. The white wire tie in the first picture is pointing to the notch. I also reversed the pinch bolt. The directions had it slipping in from the outside with the nylock on the inside. The nylock is about 1/8" longer than the hex head of the bolt and the bolt stuck through the nylock about another 1/8". So reversing it gave me 1/4". This was enough to clear on the other side, but even after the reversal, I had to notch the A-arm on the driver's side.

I had painted the inside and outside center of the rotor the night before so, after putting the necessary 1/4 spacer over the spindle to hold the rotor out(necessary only on the Fords) I dropped the inner bearing in my grease packer, slipped in the back side of the rotor, tapped in the seal on top of the bearing,and slipped the rotor on the spindle. I greased the outer bearing, slopped it over the spindle, then a spacer washer (be sure you do this), then the washer with the tang, then the castle not. Tighten the castle nut up until the rotor starts to drag when you spin it. Back off just enough that it spins freely and add the cotter key. Tap on the grease cap and you get what's in the second picture.

Now you can add the caliper and the brake pads. You will need to insert the aluminum spacer, that comes with the kit, behind the inboard pad. It is notched, so you can't go wrong here.

I cleaned up the spindle connecting rods, the steering arm, the idler arm and the idler arm bracket this morning. Painted them and will bolt them back together, complete with new rubber grease cups tomorrow and try on the stock rims to see if the back spacing will clear the disc brakes and then I should be done and able to reinstall the 351-W and AOC

 

THIS WILL BE MY LAST POST ON THIS TOPIC


View attachment 1528618 Reattached the steering linkage and the steerring box. You can see the steering shaft coming up out of the box on the left side of the picture. Will have to drop the box and shaft later when I set the body back on the chasis, but I reinstalled it so I can move the chasis around the shop.

View attachment 1528619 The middle of the frame rail sits 9" off the ground. Remember this is with dropped uprights and aerostar coil springs in the front and a JAMCO rear suspension set up with 2" blocks. When I add the 351-W, AOD and body it will settle even more.

View attachment 1528623 This is the body that will eventually go on the chasis. Chop by HAMB member "metalshapes".

IF ANYONE HAS ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE, AGAIN, PLEASE, PM ME since I won't be checking back on this post.

Thanks for looking

 

try upload again

 

Sorry to her about your Dad. My dream car is a '50 Ford. That was my Dad's first car he bought. He paid $100 for it in the early '60s. I've owned several cars and trucks,but I'm saving up for a decent '50 Ford. I've got my eye on a few if I can the get the money. I like your idea on the build. The Vw green is going to look killer.

 

Thank you SO much for taking the time to detail and share this with us! You know I appreciate it, along with others on this thread who have (and haven't) commented! We'll be watching anxiously for your completed car!

It's been a month and two days since his p***ing. It's not any easier at all. I had a long dream last night that he called "from heaven". He only had a few moments but had a lot to tell me. I'm taking it as a personal experience that I can grow from!

 

Thats exactly what I want mine to look like

 

Which one?

 

sorry, Happy Hoppy's. How do you include the picture or comment in your new comment?

 

You can press the red "QUOTE" ****on under a post, like Happy Hoppy's with the picture of his car, then write what you want to below, in the same box. Pretty cool!

Yeah, Happy's car is *****in!!!!

 

Bringing this back up with a picture Happy Hoppy just posted of his car with Fat Man dropped uprights and Aerostar coils.

This, gentlemen, is Shoebox stance perfection!

 

I concur.. That is a great stance!!!
That is what i'm shooting for... any idea on the rear??

 

Dunno, maybe Happy will enlighten us.

 

thanks guys, I appreciate the complements.

all stock suspension front and rear,
Dropped uprights and steering arms from Jamco up front.
stock rear leaf springs, 3 leafs removed, 4 inch blocks, air shocks and huge notch in the back.

you could probably get away with a small C notch but I might air bag this car someday so I installed the larger notch.

 

Cool I like the rearend cover.

 

thanks!
and yes, the axle comes up that high.

 

Thanks for the info Happy! Plus the height info on the other thread!