Does anyone still do lead work? I do it time to time for customers that dont want plastic filler, aka "bondo". I havent ran across any posts since ive been here about anyone talking about it. And its a big hot rodding thing... Just curious...
People who need bragging rights want "lead".... I don't see the dfference between plastic filler and the 1/4" buildup of the catalized high build primers on the market (sprayable plastic filler) that get sprayed over the "lead" myself...
Some folks still do it. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179226&highlight=lead+body+work
I do lead work.Worked at Bentley and Rolls Royce,part of my job doing lead work on these bodies. my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com
Still do it when the customer "Want to belly up to the bar" 4 it. Nothin wrong with bondo is used properly. Read: Skim coat
Not saying anything wrong with plastic filler, just not "cave and pave". I rarely do it, and charge extra for doing it when i do. I always put a coat of slick sand on top of any body work on a car i do all over. Great stuff...
Sure, i do it when welding sheetmetal. It is quicker than you might think and my shop don't get trashed from sanding bondo.
Isn't it terrible how dusty / dirty a shop gets from sanding filler, it gets into everything ! I need a better set-up.
It works great but you need a gun with a BIG tip for it to want to lay out and not look like snot. It gives you a great base to wet sand on for a real slick paint job.
I only use lead in my shop, no plastic fillers. Not that I think there is anything wrong with plastics, we just don't do that type of work here and I don't like the mess. Actually we don't do any bodywork here other then an occasional metal finish project for the customer that has a project or ego worthy of "no bondo" and a pocket book willing to support it!
I still use solder on my own cars, but I am a hobbyist, and do not do this for my profession. ---John
Hi .. I always use lead over sheet metal welds and patch repairs...gives a better surface tension..just use a bit of filler to finish off....just got to make shure every thing is clean before applying.......Doug
Sure, I do use Lead. Not @ work (collision shop), but will use it over welds or in conjunction W/ Metal Finishing@ Home on the Hot Rods!
I did some on the post and windshield area on my 37. Its not to hard to do. The correct files and paddles make it look nice.
Yup, done it several times... Eastwood has all the supplies... use vixen body files to finish, no sanding (lead dust)...
I do leadwork both at work and on my own stuff at home . I restore vintage british tin for a living , BTW . Once you know what you're doing , it's not that tough to work with ... but then again , I've been doing it around 20 years . One thing works for both methods , if you do your sheetmetal repair correctly , you shouldn't need much of either filler . Lead filler is better if you ask me ... take it for what it's worth (and it's not for bragging rights ) . Properly done , it adheres great , it seals the repair area , "moves" well with the car , and best off - it belongs on old cars . Don't knock it till ya try it - that's all I'll say . Plastic filler is fine , taken in moderation ... which it most often is not . It's good if you don't have the patience to do it with lead , which is a benefit , I guess . I've used it - we all have . As long as I have time & lead sticks I'll always try to do filler-work with lead .
I'm learning on my own project, right now. I am getting a little more comfortable, each time I do it. I've leaded the bottom of the frt fenders, the front of the hood & the header panel. Watching Gordon Forbes was a great experience. Here's a link to my video of him working on Jim Sigs 32 5W http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/...urrent=GordonForbesleadingJimSigmunds325W.mp4 Melting the shavings and other pieces, making more lead sticks..
Hey, I think you'll find that the remelting, and reuse of previously melted solder to not be all that great a pratice The flux, oil/wax used in the first use has a nasty habit of fucking up paint jobs down the road. Too, the alloy of the solder changes when remelted, requiring hotter temps. for the second use. That's not a good thing when leading a thin or low crowned panel like a roof or hood panel. Anyone who feels the need to use plastic filler or polyster primer over a leaded repair was probably standing in the hallway the day they taught Lead 101 " Life ain't no Disney movie "
I believe you, cos something has to change during remelting. The bad bits separate, but the good has to also! I'm still learning, thanks for that info. It all helps
My grandfather worked for and retired from Fisher Body of St.Louis in 1964. He leaded seams. My brother has grandpas old tools with the paddles and spoons, etc. he used for lead work. Paddles and spoons? Sounds like an interesting weekend in Vegas doesn't it?
I often wondered about the guys that leaded cars at the factories. With today's "health" warnings and all on lead you would think your gonna die of lead poisoning by just picking up the stick. Not knocking proper heath/ safety procedures but you got to know there were lots of men paddling lead day in and out for years barehanded and no mask. How did they survive if it's so nasty?
I've done a fair amount of lead work on my car. Once you get the lead on there, it makes for a great way to shape your car. My intention was to use a maximum of half a mm of bondo on my car, so the lead has given me that opportunity. Loved working with it. Here are some pics.
Been slinging lead for about 35 years,still doing it ,and I still think it gives a superior finish to bog,(bondo). Plus, its old school ,and once you get the hang of it its a hell of a lot nicer to work with than that plastic shit. I,ve been told by someone that used to supply him that Bill Hines has his own blend made up with slightly more lead content which should give easier wiping and filing.
Hey, Most find the 70/30 mix to be a good one. The 50/50 mix formerly used in plumping, is good for tinning, but alittle tough to work with. The more tin a solder bar has, the lower the melting point. Over paddled solder can cause paint problems from the trapped flux/wax used. " Meanwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "
hey metalman, think about it, bill hines will be 90 in a couple of months. he's still using lead and been doing it for over 60 years and usually while smoking a cigar! gene winfield i believe is around 80 and he's still doing it too. neither one uses any mask and both could still out work guys half their age!
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