I am looking for personal experiences with Restoration Shop acrylic urethane. I am planing on painting my 32 frame this weekend with single stage Restoration Shop urethane, and I am wondering how this stuff sprays. My past experience with Dupont single stage was not so good. I could lay it down with very little orange peel, but later it would sag during the curing stage. Should I spray it a little dry, or can I get it fairly smooth and not worry about runs. I am using a Finsihline gun with a 1.5 tip. I searched online, but couldn't find much info. Thanks
I'm not really an experienced finish painter but I shot some of their DTM Epoxy Primer inside my cab and top coated with their single stage urethane. I just followed their tech sheet to the letter and once my gun and air pressure was adjusted right, it layed down real nice. No runs, no orange peel.
if its runnin it aint the paint. ive used dupont on and off for yrs. no problem.but i havent used what your wanting to use, sorry.
Hey, Lay down a tack coat, let it flash & followed by a full wet one. Since it's single stage you can scrape/sand out your runs/sags & polish it out. Be sure to use a well fitting resperator with the correct filters when shooting urethane. '' Life ain't no Disney movie "
MY experince with any uro paints are good. the trick to good painting is to adhire to manufacturers spefications .then painter techneak comes into play. if you followed recomendations and do not get in a hury you will do good work .One tip I would give is as follows. Once everything is preped and ready you should turn up the pressure just ever so slightly, cut the paint volume down some and spray on a light coat of paint,( this is your tack coat ).Then weight 15 minutes (no less) Reset your gun to normal and spray 1 medium coat weight 10 minuts (no less) then apply 2 meadium wet coats and let it dry. this works great for me for solid colors ,metalic colors are harder to do for a beginer. it takes practice to become a master painter just dont give up and you will get it
i meant to type that info in.but i forgot. do it just like pimpin paint said and you should be good to go.how did you shoot it? tack coat first,wet coat first etc..?
I love the stuff. Just painted a 64 Ranchero and a 32 Vicky frame with it. Lays on nice, covers great and is real easy to fix fu-- ups and buff to a nice shine. Closest thing I've found to the old PPG DAU Deltron that was the standby in my shop for years till we couldn't get it anymore. Added bonus I've had good luck spot repairing it without having to shoot the whole panel + you can't beat the price. That said I haven't used any of it other then solid colors. The metallics might have issues if you buff it, i know we use to have some once in a while buffing metallic DAU motteling the metallic.
I have never done a tack coat with SS paint, so I think this may be my problem. I was taught that with SS paint every coat should look like you want the final coat to look.
Oh no! You always need a tack coat to grab on to. But I've heard people say the same thing about the next coat or two - shoot it like it's being finished.
a tack coat will make or break a paint job.reducers are critical.low temp-fast reducer. the tech sheets with the paint will provide the required info.
buddy, everyone is throwing out good advice.tack coats, flash times,metal temp,critical this time of yr.reducer type(slow,med fast)all relavent.the last time i shot single stage.i shot a tack coat made flash time themn i shot another tack coat let flash then shot my wet coat. came out beautiful and stayed where i shot it and didnt try to lay on the floor.follow what the guys are telling you and you should be good.but never , never shot the first coat wet. good luck.and let us know how it turned out.
a tack coat first, not sure about the resto shop paint. Limco still makes a single stage urethane that's california approved. Also there's a paint store in long beach that sometimes has old stock of ppg.
Ian, The tack coat is vital to using this, or any catalyzed or reduced paint. I have been spraying paint for years and I even lay a tack coat when spraying H20 paint. It is no mistake that it is called a "tack coat" because that is exactly what it is doing; creating a sticky (tacky) layer for the top coats to grab and it will also help your top coats avoid sags. Set up the gun per the material instructions and spray some sample stuff that replicates the thing you plan on spraying (IE frame rails I spray a chunk of angle or channel first). It is really worth prepping and priming your sample parts with the same primer you will be using on the real deal too. This way you get a feel for the material. Take your time and pay attention to your distance from the surface and your speed. It will be fne.
I used the Restoration Shop acrylic urethane on my boys pickup,,the stuff flowed nice,,easy to spray, nice finish and quite durable. I would use it again. http://www.flickr.com/photos/22832895@N08/
I used it to paint my car. Can't beat the price. I've never painted before but it seemed to work well. Followed the directions on the cans. Any problems I found in the paint are user error. I'd recommend it.
As pointed out, following the paint instruction is key. I used the restoration Acrylic on my 31 Chevy Rest and its pretty easy to work with. I thought it would be very runny based on how this paint mixed. I am sure the Urethane may be slightly different on mix ratios. However, as pointed out, and I cannot stress this enough--TIME yourself with a real clock or timer between coats. It makes all the difference in the world. The clock in your head not good enough! As for how much to shoot its the age old. My success with Limco Synthetic Enamel came down to several light coats then one or two heavier. Frame however, is the best place to start to see how the paint feels. The suggestion also of 1.2 or 1.3 tip is key. I would lean toward the 1.3. I used a 1.0 on my frame and was not happy when I went to the body. 1.4 was the cats meow with the paint I used and was very happy with the lay down and pattern. Preperation of surface, following of instructions for mixing (know your reducer pot life), patience..it will come out better than you expected.
One thing that I'll add is that the BC-CC paint that I ordered from them was a perfect match to the original paint that was not exposed to the sun. I tried to get the paint locally using the 56 Ford paint code but it was not even close. I've had all kinds of trouble getting the color that I wanted by using paint chips and color charts over the years. I was shocked at how close it is. If I ever want a particular color for a project I will use them again. To me that is very important especially if you want an old color that has to be custom mixed.
The Jalopy Journal
