Should I have my flywheel resurfaced?

This spring I'm hoping to put my 1964 Ford HEH-E toploader behind the 221 c.i. V-8 in my 1962 Ford Fairlane. I'm trying to gather all the parts prior to pulling out the original 3-speed standard that is currently in the car. I will be putting in a new clutch and pressure plate and was wondering if I should have the stock 22.7 oz flywheel resurfaced. I've been trying to track down another 221 Ford 22.7 oz flywheel to get resurfaced, but I'm typically a "day-late and a dollar short" when I find one. Any suggestions or does anyone have a 221 Ford 22.7 oz flywheel for sale?

Thanks!
Tom - Glass_Packs

 

Why do you think you need to? How does it look?
Regardless I would do it for what it cost. You'll never regret it.

 

Of course have it done. In my area, $40, and they did it while I waited.

 

Since I don't have the 3-speed transmission out to inspect it, I don't know what condition the flywheel is in. I've had the car on the road since May 2011 and you could tell the clutch is at the end of it's life, with the occasional pressure plate clatter. I would like to have all the parts that I want to replace ready before I drop the transmission (I would like to minimize the down-time as much as possible). The problem is the small block fords have different balanced flywheels depending on the rotating and reciprocating mass (221 V8 is 22.7 oz, 260 V8 is 24.5, 289 and early 302 V8 are 28.2). So trying to find the right one (the 221 V8 was made in 1962 and 1963 only) is like finding a needle in a haystack.

Thanks!
Tom - Glass_Packs

 

Definitely do it. I cheaped out one time cause it looked ok. Damn thing thumped like a mother. Had to pull the tranny back out and start all over again. It sucked bad doing it once and getting paid. It completely blew doing it for free a second time .

 

Not for real certain, but I think those Ford flywheels are referred to by the amount of "imbalance", as I think they word it.

Surfacing it should not alter the "imbalance", I don't believe.

 

You're right it is referred to by the amount of "imbalance" - my mistake!

Thanks!
Tom - Glass_Packs

 

Don't "cheap out" Resurfacing the flywheel is part of the deal. I did a clutch job a couple years ago and was going to skip the resurface job. I think it was $15 in 2006. When I laid the clutch on the counter the rebuilder said "where's the flywheel?" I said it looked real good. He said "I've been rebuilding clutches for over 40 years and if you don't resurface the flywheel you will be sorry." He reported back that the wheel had a significant concave to it that would have caused a problem. If somebody who has 40 years experience offers an opinion, it is probably wise to consider it.

 

I would resurface it. FWIW, in theory, you could drill into the imbalance weight to remove material to get it down to 22.7 ounces, if using a 302 flywheel. If the diameters and bolting patterns are the same. I haven't taken my 221 out yet to confirm this.

 

I took mine in and they did it while I waited also. Check around for a machine shop that will do it while you wait. Why not start out with everything new. I used to call the machine shop and tell them I'd be in with it in an hour or so and then pull it. We'd do it all in one day.

 

I would do it and while your at it take a good look at the ring gear. Regards, Tom.

 

If you need a friction disc and or pressure plate, the flywheel need to be resurfaced professionally.

 

Nothing like a fresh clutch and a ground flywheel. Sooo smooooth!

 

In my way of reasoning, this flywheel can have the friction surface machined and it should/will not affect the 22.7 oz imbalance at all. Think of this way, the imbalance weight is on the back (engine side) of the flywheel. That weight is unaffected by the machining on the clutch side. The weight of the "base" flywheel isn't an issue with these imbalance units, it's only the imbalance weight matters.


Ray

 

If it needs a clutch, it needs to have the flywheel turned. I do not replace a clutch without turning a flywheel unless I have too. It's to much work to replace a clutch and end up with some clutch chatter vs the extra hour it takes to get done.

 

At the shop I've worked at for 23 years, we have a basic rule. If we sell you a clutch, you must resurface the flywheel to have a clutch warranty.
Why? It doesn't matter if it's a clutch for a Honda or a Cat C-15 in a Kenworth. When the clutch is built or rebuilt, the clutch fingers/diaphragm height, release bearing height determines correct pressure at the pressure plate surface and clutch disc or discs. If the flywheel isn't machined to the correct spec for it's application, the spring pressure against the discs won't be correct, or the wear of the previous friction--the disc--will not allow complete contact over the friction area which will lead to sort clutch life. Kinda like putting new brake pads on chewed up rotors.
I'll bet your clutch supplier has the same policy as where I work. No resurface, no warranty.

 

The answer is always YES!

 

With the flywheel out, NOW would be the time to change out the FREEZE PLUGS in the back of the block. At the least, check that they are BRASS. Ask me how I know...

- Tim

 

Rule of thumb, change clutch kit, always machine flywheel, bottom line your clutch plate will grab better, last longer and bed in quicker, theres no other way in my mind to do it, and resurface/machined is cheap for what you get, sure u have to wait for it to get done ,but its worth waiting for
A-tub