Please post pictures... I want to do a manual tilt or one that uses a bottle jack like from a cherry picker. This is so I can access the underneath of my truck. thanks O yeah this is for my coe.thanks
Hey this aint for a minitruck,its not for show its not for looks,you never had to take your fenders off to work on a lowered truck have you?
i have done a few, bed will be heavy unless you have a lot of overhang. a bottle jack would be annoying. on a "show" bed you can get away with a plow cylinder and a small electric pump, or extra plow pump on the motor. you can get away with using your power steering pump but you have to put a manual valve to switch from steering to piston. not good to run them at the same time.
A 12volt Tommy-lift tailgate pump and cylinder will do what you want. Cylinder extends out 24 inches and retracts with weight of the bed. The pump has its own small tank and really all the 12v motor is a Ford starter. Very compact and would be easy to mount.
My 27 has a bed that slides horizontally, moved by a 400lb electric actuator. Gary http://www.firgelliauto.com/
I built one for a off topic truck, used a Firestone 2500 airbag. Build a sturdy frame and a couple pivots out of 2.5 inch bushings. It works great!
great Idea thanks. I thought about that,but my bed is 5'x7' (widened f1 bed) plus fenders,tailgate,3''x2'' square tubing subframe and wood floor too heavy for a slider.
Brake bleeding.tire changing. maintance etc....i will eventually make a tilt cab and i cant tilt it unless the bed is 20 inches apart from the back of the cab
Built plenty for dump trucks. You need to figure the weight of the bed, how far you want it to move, make sure the lift point on the bed is strong enough to hold the bed together, and the frame is strong enough to handle all that leverage, there a lot of it, at the cylinder attachmemt point. The pivot is important too, strength and placement. Geometry involved. You could go with a long stroke, like from an engine hoist, you could go with a short stroke and a bell crank, depends on your set up and room available. The angles and arcs have to work together not against each other. Physics involved.
Here's a crappy pic showing an original dump bed's cylinder from a '49 F3. And another pic of the same truck: It's PTO driven, just like my F6 dumptruck. If you want to go with a manual tilt, like a cherry picker, you'll have to probably compensate 1 bigger cylinder than the two pictured. But you can at least see the angles used here.
Whenever someone mentions a tilt or dump bed I think of the people that have been crushed under one. Design a safety sleeve to go over the piston to prevent it from ever going down while working around a raised bed.
Agreed. Or at least a pair of pie shaped brackets at the rear with holes on each end, so it can be pinned in an upright position.
all great Ideas Havi do you have more pics of that f3? I mostly need pic of how it attaches to the front of the bed and the rear hinges... Vicky with a hemi:I built 3"x2" subframe and I plant o reinforce the area where it would hinge,My hinges would be 1" thick round stock and 1/4 plate). As far as the cab tilt,my FIL has a 60s freightliner COE sitting on the ground with most of the hinges attached I might use those. I am seriously thinking about an airbag set up instead of a hydraulic jack,I could just hook the air compressor hose and go to town. Does any one make a hydraulic jack that uses air instead of electricity?
Just saw on Springfield MO. CL a 12 V Hydraulic pump came off a RV slide out ?? $200 listed under Farm & garden
Not being a truck driver, I would not have thought an injury or fatality could be caused this way (as mentioned above) but the need for something is pretty obvious to me now. I probably need to rethink my bed situation, too. So, having a safety of some sort, however you do it, should be on the top of your list of things to do as you build you bed mechanism, IMHO. Gary
Google "air over hydraulic" and you'll find lots of air pumped hydraulic info and resources. The strength needs to be determined once your design is established. I will say this, the longer the stroke usually the less you need. If you go short stroke for long movement you'll be using leverage and that will require more structure. Most of that depends on the size of space available.
I am considering this route on our '56 F100 for access to brake booster, air ride compressors, etc....plus the kool factor...... I have an old custom truck article "somewhere" that I cannot seem to locate that did a pretty fair job of laying out the hinge setup & so on... BUT...I could really use some photos from someone who has done this first hand..... I have a few CAD designs roughed-in...but I cannot figure out how to convert them from ICEMsurf to post them......if I figure it out I'll get something up... Thanks in advance to anyone that can post some pics...... -
I am trying to tilt the bed back wards. I have it figured out in my head just need to fab everything up. thanks for the help and concern.
ALL of our dump units at work have a safety pole to prop the bed up for servicing. Do you have any heavy truck junkyards nearby? Maybe scavenge the entire unit and mount it in your frame. That way you get all the angles and pieces right. We have a '91 Chevy pickup mini-dump in our fleet, look for similar.
I used cab jacks out of a 65 White cabover with a diverter valve in the power steering. Bought the control valve from a hyd. shop. The cylinders were double acting and were about 30" long and 2 1/2" in dia. Lee
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