216 rebuild initial settings and cylinder compression questions (For advanced dummies

Yes, that was when they did away with the foot starter. If you want to save a good deal of time & work just add a push ****on and use the '49 starter until you do the 235.

 

I think that is a great idea, however I don't have one of those solenoid type starters.

I will try the bell-housing swap, and if doesn't do it, I will just have to buy and install a solenoid type starter. Not a show stopper, but another delay. The bell housing will need to be sand blasted and powder coated like the other one.

 

Looks like you've made a ton of progress on your rebuild, Chevy. Nice job and she sounds like she ought to. Not to beat a dead horse but if you broke in the cam and everything checks out good...then drop her in and run it. I guarantee you'll see compression numbers come up after a few pulls under load. I wouldn't worry about the RPM drop for now either. I would venture that after everything sets in, you'll have to double-check point gap and valve lash and you'll be fine.

Make sure to re-torque your head bolts too before too long. Even on the newer gaskets that "don't require retorque" after you install them on these inlines those middle head bolts like to loosen up and cause problems. Cheap insurance before hitting the road, which you will be doing very soon!

Bellhousing swap should be fine, just make sure you keep the flywheel & starter from the 216 with the 216 and the 235 with the 235. They have different numbers of teeth if I recall.
Keep up the great work and enjoy the sounds of that smooth-running Stovebolt. Its the best sound in the world if you ask me!

 

Thank you Monkey*****! That means a lot to me.

Yes, It will be in the car soon enough, however it is raining and snowing slightly, and I better wait to see what happens weather-wise before I continue. My work space puts me 1/2 out in the weather when doing this engine swap. Slipping and sliding is not the best way to do this safely.

But there are other things I can do, like blast and paint the Fenton Headers, and intake manifold. I can clean and test to spec all the other stuff I pulled of the 235. There is always something to do!

With a bit of luck the re-built 216 will be rolling down the road soon enough!

Knock on wood, things could be far worse!

 

I learned this lesson on a hot, windy day in western Kansas (every day there is windy) in the middle of nowhere on I70.

 

Chevy- stay warm and have a blast. Its always fun working with iron when you can't feel your fingertips.

Old- I feel your pain. Hopefully you got it home in one piece!

 

I will do just that! Re-torque! And thanks for the heads-up! (No pun intended...lol)

The advice on the H.A.M.B. has been so invaluable to me. You guys are great!

 

Determined #8 (SBC) was leaking to the outside, pulled the pushrods & spark plug, filled the radiator & went another few hundred miles to Co. Springs. Got to the kids place & put on a new head gasket in the driveway. Got back to M***. ok, it is still running.

 

Well I'm working outside continuing my quest. I didn't do anything yesterday due to the rain and snow. But it is sunny today and despite 17 deg F outside I'm managing to stick to it. But, make no mistake about it, I'm freezing my *** off!...lol.

Monkey- Yes I can't feel my fingers half the time, but I'm still having a blast!

Let's see if I can get this motor out!

I'll be back

 

Put it the car ago for a 50 mile ride in one direction, turn it around and go back home. And give it some gas the entire time. If it doesn't blow up your good. The other posts are spot on, the equipment your using today is way beyond what was used way back when.

 

Thanks! Lot of work and it paid off pretty good. I just determined yesterday that I need a new distributor, I think the shaft is not straight and it is chewing up rotors and caps...always something! The dual carbs are fun and I'm learning a lot! Keep at it and stay warm!

 

It’s out finally! And I got a lot of cleaning to do!

That’s too bad 4door….What could possibly bend it?

Death trap , if it dies the first 100…That would really ****!

The owner’s manual spells out the break in as follows:
40 MPH for the first 100 miles
50 MPH for the next 200 miles
60 MPH for the next 200 miles

Rebuilder says: Zinc additive and 1800 RPM for 20 mins. Drive at different speeds.

 

That's Great that you got the motor out. I used some ratchet straps from one frame rail to the other to support the torque tube while cleaning, made it easier to move around.
I don't know why the distributor is like that, it is strange but got a new one coming so hopefully it will cure my ills!

 

What I do need to get is the proper "get up" to get from the engine to the hoist. I noticed things have to be balanced to get it in/out easily. As it is, I think I may have bent the tie-rod the goes to the steering box with the oil pan. (I should have removed the Pittman arm first. (I think.)

Oh well I will have to have it straightened and another front end alignment ...no biggie.

Also when putting the engine down on the pallet, the chain slipped slightly and bent one of the push rods in the 235. I can't have that when putting in the 216. The re-builder should be able to fix that up on the 235...I hope? And there is another interesting issue.

See Thread: The 235/216 Swap (Advice Wanted)

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=669683

I hope the new distributor works for you!

 

I got a motor leveler from the parts store for about $15, since I was doing it by myself it helped out a lot! I had issues clearing the motor mount perches when I took the motor out (it was so dirty that I did not know they were removable). When I put it back in I left one of the perches out to help out, but it was still very difficult to get everything lined up going back in (i.e. clearing the front cross member while getting the trans on the rear cross member without setting the pan on the steering linkage or s****ing the firewall, I still rubbed it a bit but it's all good). I left the valve cover on the motor during the process, I used pads and rags to keep the chain off vital areas, it is difficult on these 6's to find a good spot to hook it up without messing up anything! I used the coil mount hole on one side and a manifold hole on the other, the biggest problem is that the motor would twist different directions depending on the angle, but as long as it is straight when it is fairly level you shouldn't have much of an issue.

 

22 is fantastic ,Get a va***n guage and drop it down to 21 ,I bet your a little too advanced,,,,,,

 

I’ll try that Crazyjohn! So bring back the timing until vacuum is 21 instead of 22… gotcha.

A motor-leveler is exactly what I need! I’m starting to think; perhaps putting the transmission on afterwards will help deal with the cross-member.