Stock braking system on 53 chevy question

53 chevy with stock mc stock front drums wheel cylinders and front brakes look in very good shape, rear is 10 bolt camaro with drums as well. The guy I got it from said he replaced a rear wheel cylinder and bled it buy himself so it should be rebled. I test drove it brakes stopped it, well needed to pump little more to make sure but was planning on rebleeding the brakes. Well before I could rebleed them brake pedal got worse, so today tried bleeding them with no luck. What is the best way to bleed this system being it is a single reservoir, and have no pedal were do I start and stop? Should I crack lines at mc first then front to rear? Plan on going with dual mc but want to get it stopping again for right now.

 

Sounds like you have another issue besides just needing a bleeding..but..

I bleed brakes differently than most others. It works,

Crack a bleeder, it does not matter closest or furthest. Then push the pedal down slowly, and release it slowly. Repeat till you get a clear stream there, then go to the next.

I just got my completely empty system working today like that.

 

Not knowing what the previous owner did and you saying that he placed "a" wheel cylinder, if it were my car I would replace all of the wheel cylinders and really check out the brakes good. I never just replace one wheel cylinder.

 

I wouldn't ride around in one with all new wheel-cylinders/lines/hoses/etc. with the stock single line master cylinder.

 

i use a mite vac most times witha bleeder bottle, HF also has a va***e pump, keep fluid out of pump as it causes malfuction

 

Been there, done that... if you aren't changing master now, atleast inspect all cylinders to make sure they stroke, release and don't leak......same for the master.. bleed farthest rear, then closest rear, farthest front then closest front.....if you are getting dirty fluid out of bleeders, you need to tear into the cylinders.... to find source of dirt, probably corroded cylinder/s....check master for dirt as well, make sure the master strokes and releases fully as well. If you do this and still have bad pedal or stopping action, then you most lijkely have wheel or master cylinder issues....***uming brake shoes, springs, drums are ok........remember that ***uming is a bad thing............

 

Just what is the problem that you can't bleed them? Does it never get a pedal at all? That under floor location makes these such a pain in the *** to work on, but it all works the same way. The master itself is pretty simple.

One thing, you could make a pressure bleeder for this pretty easy I would think, because the cap screws on, a spare cap drilled out for a tire valve would do it. That might be the way to go.

 

Thanks all, the wheel cylinders all look like they've been replaced in front but they did look pretty dirty when fluid did come out. I can move it in driveway pedal goes straight to floor then another time it hits like a good pedal but more than not it goes to the floor. Read the thread on were someone had made bracket with the dual master with built in residuals, looking like thats the route I'm goin to go. I will still check the wheel cylinders but thanks for the responses!!