I have just started mocking up my Deuce Tudor engine, and I from all the searching I have done cannot figure out what crankshaft pulley to use, the stock truck one hits the crossmember, I know most people use a model A member but mine is a stock deuce member and I am using the original 32 mounts that bolt to the front of the block. the motor sits perfect, the crank bolt is dead centered in the handcrank hole. Do I have to cut the crossmember or is there a pully that will clear it?? I am using the truck water pumps so I need the wide belt pulley, or should I get the earlier car pumps? The next issue I have is I bought an old Fenton intake and carbs, but I think it may be for an earlier motor as it has 22 mounting holes and my motor has only 14, and I'm totally lost as to how to get the generator/alt, fan to work with this whole setup, this is my first flathead car build so any help is welcomed!! here are some pics illustrating what I am referring to:
Ya know for as many thousands of times this has been done over the years you would think there would be a strait forward combination that works. I'm doing the same thing sort of. A-V8 but mine is channeled. Again, nothing new here but what's the combination? I know of 3 other active posts on here asking the same thing. Someone should write a book. The Wizzard
Distributor...if you use early distributor and cam, you can use early pumps with very minor mods. Then any '39-48 crank pulley cut back to single sheave puts the plane of your pulleys and belt back where it was in 1932, and a cut-down early generator made into just a bearing mount will put the fan mount back to '32. You'd still need an offset gen mount. That would at least put you into an easier set of problems... Any '49-up rig is inherently longer since the pulleys are pushed forward to allow fan belt to clear distributor... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35029&highlight=dimensional+stuff&showall=1
I'm building a 30 with a EA8 truck motor and don't have a clue on the crank pully problem, might trim the crossmember. I have used a Speedway Motors alternator mount GM alternator with a 37 generator pully machined to fit and the fan mounts on the pully, this is the second car I have done that way.
I trimmed the front crossmember slightly to clear the crank pulley in my original 32 frame with 8BA engine.
I trimmed my model a crossmember when i installed my 53 merc motor Reinforced it with tubing when i was done gave it a nice finished look.
Bruce; That's grate information. Don't know how I missed it. I may still have one small issue in that my Motor is a 38 and the Crank stub is smaller o.d. (1.020) than the 39 up crank. I kind of think I have a system coming together but it's not on the front burner right now. So to run the Crab Cap style dist do you need to change the Camshaft or just the front cover? The Wizzard
I'm no expert for sure, but here's my set up with a stock '32 frame and an A crossmember. Stock p*** car wide belt water pumps, offset generator mount. Double '42-'48 crankpulley with front sheave removed (you can cut it off, or drill the spot welds and save the pulley). I went ahead and located TDC, then marked the pulley and made a pointer for easier future timing adjustments. 59AB type two bolt distributor, cut down '30's generator and pulley as fan idler, '30's fan w/sleeve lengthened to bring fan within ¾" of radiator core. I recently bought a '38 truck fan and it has the same shaft length as the one I modified and would have save much effort. These pictures aren't great, but they may give you some ideas.
Flatout has the good stuff...single sheave early setup is same basic setup as '32, the gen mount fans come in a bunch of different lengths. On the common two-sheave or fan-mount pulleys for '39-48, you cuy away the surplus but leave the center tube part that allows pulley to be tightened to the shaft. The stock single sheave foe long crank was '39 standard only, but that pulley (now rare) was supplied with all the 24 stud engines sold as replacement ***emblies for '32-38 Fords after WWII. For the guy with the short crank ('32-38), 99% of those motors came with single sheave pulley, the same pulley and location as in '32...only a few heavy trucks had double sheave. The late crank with '39-48 pulleys also has same first sheave location, leaving only a protruding center (Maybe 1" longer??) longer than an original '32. Cut a '32 crossmember?? WTH? I thought they were all already notched to accept early Olds/SBC pulleys! Standard notchery is a maybe 4" wide cut out into that rear sump part of crossmember. With a flathead, I would never notch one unless I had something odd like a blower pulley... for normal work, the packaging benefits of the early parts and the ability to use the cheap and excellent (and realdamnshort) 21A distributor makes the cam and pump swap seriously worthwhile. Sell the extra bits to somone with a '49 Ford.
Another route may be to look at the pulleys that Flathead Jack sells,... They have one with double wide belt sheaves,...which I use, and machine the front one off, if need be. I also went the electric fan route, mounted in front of the radiator. 4TTRUK
Thanks guys, a lot of good info here, some one else brought up the fact that I may be able to raise up the front of the motor about 3/4" and gain some room, and that got me thinking, I am currently setting all this up on 80 year old mounts, that could be compressed some.
To map original stock engine level...one end is of course set by trans mount, at front shove a rod through the crank guide on the spring perch. Stock that wouls align exactly with center of crankshaft so that hand crank would fit. Useful datum point.
Go look at the picture posted by xix32 on the traditional flathead pictures thread...it shows a '42-48 double sheave in place, AND shows you how much room that cut to single sheave gets you over a '49-53 setup. His height issues were settled by simply using original '32 mounts.
I see that. I took some measurements last night with a cut apart 2 sheave pully to see if raising the front up made any differance, and it did not, so I either need to change the distributor and cover and water pumps or trim the crossmember. Im ***uming to go to the early crab dist. I need to change the cam too? too bad because the motor is done, I hate to tear it apart again.
I personally feel that getting basic dimensions of big parts to a better place is worth the trouble in comparison with hacking to fit fundamentally wrong parts...just my opinion. Work should be easy since valve parts haven't been fried together, head gaskets should save, essentially new '52 cam should be saleable to someone with a late car. Manifold issues...is that front cast as one piece, as it looks?? It appears to me to be essentially a stock manifold with adaptor to alloe hookup of '42-48 or later fan bracket without using a chunk of generator bracket. Edelbrock and Offy sold adaptors somewhat like that. Yours looks like it was cast that way, with a casting ridge left where original gen bracket lives...?
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