I just replaced the rear axle in my 55 Ford. I used a Lincoln Versalles unit, The pads were 1/2 inch further apart on each side. I also installed new leaf springs and replaced all bushings. Everything fit nicely but now the rear is off to one side. I though about cutting the saddles of and moving them in 1/2 inch but that would make the situation worse (by measurement to frame) If I unbolt the rear from the springs and center it, the pads are off to one side. It seems that the leaf springs are actually not in the proper places when they meet the axle. So, how do I tell if the springs are the problem? They look OK and the spring mounts are all the same as woth the previous set up. I have measured every way I can and can't find the problem. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!
Did you measure from the outside flange to the center of the diff? Do that from each side to see if there is a difference.
the rear end came from the factory off set to give room in the floor on drivers side for your feet in the linc. the ujoint will make up for the angle. if you measure the axel tubes you will see ones longer than the other. center the rear in the fenders side to side and ft to rear and let her roll.
All measurements are the same on the axle. Measurements from saddle to outside flange, Flange to ends of axles are the same. One flange is 1/8 thicker than the other. Measuring from the ends of the axle up (using straight edge, then to frame to determine if axle is centered to eliminate possible body shift.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> <o> </o> This thing has me beat!!<o></o>
With hoggs head centered the wheels are centered in the wheel well. Springs are as much as 1.50 to 1.75 over on pads.
Make that the yoke. The HH is offset. I am not concerned about the center of that. As you said the u joints (CV in this case) will take care of that. I need the wheels centered.
What is AR side? I can't really follow this. It is no simpler or easier than to center the whole rear end on the springs making sure the wheels will be centered as well and then weld up the saddles. What part am I missing. Not being a smart ass but this is really simple, I assume I am missing some part of the problem.
Anal Retentive I can't stand having the whole rear set in there with the springs mounted where ever they happen to fall. Everything should measure equally and be square with one another. It is hard to explain the problem. I'm sure it is something simple. Frame is square, axle housing pads measure correctly to end of axles yet the springs do not fall on the pads/saddles. They are off and to different measurements. Springs are mounted the same and hangers have not been modified. Seems impossible but it has stopped me dead on my work. I'll settle this before moving on. (More of the AR) one thing at a time. I may try the old springs to see if that helps. If I can post pictures I'll try that so you can see what I am talking about.
X2. Sounds like your going to have to do some cutting. Put the axle in where it looks good and go from there.
ok your taking a rearend out of newer car,and putting it in a older car, no way it will bolt right in,,, cut the purches off ,grind the area, bolt axle into place ,measure and adjust to make perfect...weld ... something is not square,,go figure its a old car... if your that anal about it you would want to do it this way anyway.....because this is the correct way to do it.....
I hear you on the AR stuff. If it were here, I would measure the the front mounts C-C , and front mount to body on both sides. Do the same with the rear mounts. Then I'd measure the free hanging springs at the pins C-C and pin to outside body. If the shackles are offset, make sure they are on the correct side. On the axle itself Check perch center to center and center to wheel mounting surfaces and the wheels themselfs for equal back spacing. You'll probably have to use a combination of strings, plumb bobs, marks on the ground, squares, levels and a helper. There could be lots of stuff off just a bit, like a bent bracket, an egg shaped hole, prior accident. It won't take much variation at the mount to throw off the pin location.. lord knows what the car has been thru over the years. Hell the bodies were never square on the frames from the factory.
I would have no problem moving the perches equal amounts one way or the other but I'm not inclined to have one spring perch 2" from the end of the axle and the other 3.5 from the other side. I know no one would know it but me but it should work so I guess I'll pull the springs and put the old ones back on. The frame is square and the perches are located equal from the end of the axles so I guess I have something wrong with the new springs even though I cant see what it is. I'll keep banging until I find it. Thanks for the help!
I'm having the same issue with the original Dana 44 installed in a 58 Studebaker Hawk. The passenger side axle sets much closer (1.5") to the fender lip than the drivers side. Studebaker installed them that way but it is a problem with custom wheels. Some have told me if I center the axle in the frame that it will cause U-joint and vibration issues. ???
You said the perches were 1/2" off in your first post, did you just push the srpings over till they fit? If so, you are binding the springs causing them to shove the axle in one direction. If this is the case, it will probably ride like crap as well. Your perches need to be the same width as the springs. On a side note, what the hell difference would it make where your perches are located on the axle tube as long as the rear is centered?!
I must be missing something. In a nutshell, forget about where the spring pads are. Cut those off and grind everything smooth because they might be in the right spot for a Lincoln Versailles but they are in the wrong spot for your '55. Find a new set of spring pads that are the right width for your springs and the diameter of the tube on your new rearend. Bolt the rear end to the springs using your u-bolts and new spring pads. Center the rear in the frame using the axle flanges or wheel mounting surface (not the pumpkin) as a reference point. When you have it centered and square in the frame, check your pinion angle and make sure it is compatible with the angle of the tailshaft of your trans (there are a bunch of threads on how to do this), install shims between the spring and the spring pad if needed to correct the pinion angle. Spot weld in your spring pads. Unbolt everything and finish welding the spring pads. Put it back together. I hope I didn't miss something. Anyway, this is how I do it. I can't help but feel I might be misunderstanding the question though. If I'm missing what your saying please post pics so we can understand and help you figure this out.
Absolutely the proper way to do it. The issue I have would leave one pad welded a different measurement from the axle flange on each side. The axle would be centered, the springs would be in different positions. It would work, just be sort of odd and I don't like that. As an update, I now have the rear centered perfectly! It seems that the springs are somehow acting on the rear (side to side) differently. By tightening up one spring to the axle perch first, and then the other, the thing is perfect. Working from the opposite side it ends up off quite a bit. Really odd, but thats what it does. Wedges are in and the rear is ready. Working on the wheels now. That 1/2 on either side is playing a part in wheel selection. I have the rears fitting perfect (17x8) and am working on getting the front offset and back space correct. Thats not as easy as it sounds either. Thanks to you guys that replied!!
line the wheels up in your wheel wells move pads to where you need them,Its that simple ,if the shaft is off center the u joint will take up the rest
if the housing pinion is offset from center than you can not expect to center the driveshaft in the tunnel and not have the pads offset. the driveshaft will fall whereever it falls if the rearend housing is centered (pads equal distance from the backing plates). the other issues could be your spring mounts are not square, maybe your frame bent..
...is the body mounted on the frame maybe off-centered....couldv'e come that way if it's never been off. I had the same problem on a 49 Chevy Suburban, turned out the body was not centered on the frame; the previous owner had the body ready to come off the frame and just bolted it back down crooked. Just a thot.
Okay, I understand what you are saying. I don't know anything about '55 Fords but it seems that the springs should be located in the same spot on the frame. At this point I would check your spring hangers to make sure they are square to the frame on both sides. If that checks out. Take a good look at your springs again. Compare them side by side and against your original springs if you still have them. See if there are any differences. Also, take a good look at your frame to make sure it's straight. Check it using various reference points and measure diagonally. With the problem you are describing, I would think it could only be a couple of things. I'm wondering if your frame is bent because it seems to me that the spring hangers should be located the same from side to side and it sounds like they're not. I hope that helps.
I can understand that the pinion would be offset, but it seems like the spring pads should be the same distance from the axle flanges on the ends, shouldn't they?
Factory specs in those days was plus or minus 3/8. That means one car could be as much as 3/4 different than the one before or after it on the line. You may be able to get the axle where you want it with half inch lowering blocks with a stud welded in one side and an ofset hole in the other side.
Am I missing something here? Dont you just need the wheel mounting surfaces equal distances from the outside edge of the wheel opening? Then locate the rear like that, set pinion angle and weld perch pads in place and that should do it. Ive done several this way and always been fine.
I think the rear ends in the Granada bodied cars were offset from the factory,when putting my 55 Ford togather I had both a Maverick and a Granada rear ends and the Maverick went in and I think thats the reason why.
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