Okay fellas, just getting ready to put the 8BA back into the '50 Tudor. BUT, before I do so there are a few things I want to get straight in my sick, little mind. First, here's the back of the engine: And here's my Fidanza aluminum flywheel, engine side: And of course the transmission side of said flywheel: The engine bay in the '50: (it will be cleaned, painted and have headers when the engine goes in) And here's the transmission, clutch fork and throw out bearing: So here's my question(s)... Besides a clutch, is there anything else that I need to mate it all together? I plan to replace the throw out bearing anyway, but is there anything else I'm missing? This is the car that my dad left me when he passed away two and half months ago, and I'm just getting ready to put it back on the road. Ignore my ignorance (hell, take pity on my ignorance!) but I've never set up a manual trans before! Thanks for the help!
New flywheel bolts little dab of loktite You could put a little return spring on the throwout fork if you want to New throwout bearing (as you said) little dab of grease on the input shaft tip and a new pilot bearing! thats just off the top of my head...
I'll start, make sure to install the flywheel pilot bushing first before installing the flywheel, next check that you have the correct size 8ba pressure plate and clutch disc for that flywheel. Replace the throw out bearing if yours looks bad or feels lumpy if you spin it by hand. You now will have to find a clutch disc alignment spud, this can be just another input shaft from a transmission similar to the one in your car or you can purchase a plastic one at the auto parts store that matches your clutch plate splines and the input pilot bearing bore. It is used to center the clutch disc when installing the pressure plate. If you dont use one the transmission will not mate to the bell housing easily. Now make sure you have the correct grade 8 or original factory shoulder bolts to bolt the flywheel to the crank shaft, make sure you have the correct factory style shoulder bolts to bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel or a similar grade 8 bolt. Never sieze the bolts before installing. Begin pressure plate installation by inserting the clutch disc spud in the clutch disc and inserting the spud and disc to the flywheel. make sure that the clutch disc is facing the flywheel correctly, the flat side faces the flywheel. Install the pressure plate to the flywheel by installing all the bolts finger tight. Draw the bolts tight evenly in a crossing pattern, dont tighten one bolt fully and do the opposite one. Draw the bolts down evenly in a crossing pattern and this may take a couple to three rotations of the sequnce. This insures that the pressure plate is tighted squarely to the flywheel. Remove the input shaft alignment spud and you are ready to mate the trans to the engine. Put a smear of neversieze on the input shaft pilot before you joint the two parts.
the loc-tite was good advice but, I would still make sure the mating surfaces of the fasteners do not have any burrs. after all a torque wrench measures friction it is an estimation of fastener strain.
Torque wrench and spec. sheet. Plus, I think I used safety wire on the flywheel bolts. Don't forget the big "bolt washer" that goes on before the flywheel bolts. Also, don't forget to install the throwout bearing. I did......only once. Also, be sure and use RTV or an excelent sealant on the gasket and cover for the oil gear that is under that plate with 5 bolts on the back of your engine.
Guys, thank you each for you great wisdom! A few additional questions here: 1. Slick Willy, you mentioned a return spring. I assume you are referring to a spring on the outside of the bell housing to help with pedal action? 2. Leadsled, I don't have a dummy anything (besides me). This is the original engine, crank and trans that were running when my dad pulled the engine. Would it be wise to get something to align this stuff, or since it was all together originally should I be alright? 3. Dick Spadaro, thank you for your time to detail this for me! You refer to the flywheel pilot bushing... again, in my ignorance I THINK the bottom photo shows the clutch fork attached to a round bearing that I'm calling the throw out bearing. Is the flywheel pilot bushing something different? 4. So the clutch and pressure plate get bolted to the flywheel (while being aligned with a spud) before they're installed in the car? Do you guys have a recommendation on a good pressure plate and clutch? The motor is fairly mild (clean up bore, no stroke, 8:1 compression). The car will be driven a lot, like a hot rod should be. Not babied, but never hammered. It'll easily see 10K miles a year or more. I located every washer, nut, bolt, valve, spring, keeper, etc. in a box this afternoon. I'd prefer to use new hardware where possible, any suggestions on what/where to buy? Just for giggles, here's my dad's ol' shoebox that I'm putting together the way he always wanted it... It is (was?) a completely original car with 54,000 miles. He always wanted to leave the faded paint (maybe clear over it to keep it from getting worse), drop it down low, white tuck n' roll, etc...
This is the pilot bushing you will need... it gets pressed into the center of the flywheel nevermind about the spring, looking at the pic it looked as if an old one was in there (from the fork to a front seal bolt) but if there isnt then dont bother.
Daddio, I have always done with a dummy input shaft. I got mine from KC gear train in Pomona Ca back in the mid-80s. Mine is an actual broken shaft. I have seen some plastic ones at auto parts stores. Basically the ID of the pilot bushing and the splines need to be the same. good luck, Tim
Daddio, The thing they're calling a spud or dummy is also called a "clutch alignment tool". You can probably rent or buy one at an auto parts store or tool rental place or buy a cheap one at HF. The tool is "universal", because it has different tips that can be used for different sized transmissions.
Okay, things are beginning to make sense, thank you. Thanks you two, checking my local store tomorrow. They're the last "real" parts store in town and I'm sure they'll have just what I need. Makes perfect sense! Thank you. All in due time my friend, all in due time. Have to get it on the road first (stopping, running cool and reliable, etc.), then we'll dump it in the weeds, then we'll attack the top with a Sawzall!
Okay guys, I was checking out www.shoeboxford.com and clicked on the link that says "clutch" (of all things, imagine that) and this photo popped up! Help me understand this please... Far left, 7600 is the pilot bushing that is pressed in the flywheel? Moving right, is the flexplate? Right again, is the clutch basket? Right again is the throw out bearing? How am I doing so far?
7600 is the pilot bearing. 7550 is the clutch disc. I think flexplates are used in automatic transmissions. 7563 is commonly called the presure plate. 7580 is the throwout bearing. Make very sure not to let any oil or grease get on the clutch disc.
pilot bushing , Clutch disk , Pressure plate then throw out bearing, Disk has a up and down have your parts guy show you what side is up when you buy your clutch assemblly hope this helped
Dick Spadaro>>>Install the pressure plate to the flywheel by installing all the bolts finger tight. Draw the bolts tight evenly in a crossing pattern, dont tighten one bolt fully and do the opposite one. Draw the bolts down evenly in a crossing pattern and this may take a couple to three rotations of the sequnce. This insures that the pressure plate is tighted squarely to the flywheel.>>> Good advice! While tightening the bolts, I also take some of the spring tension off the assembly by wedging the fingers in with pieces of wood against the body of the clutch. This helps prevent the sheet metal ears for the bolts from bending while drawing the bolts tight. Jack E/NJ
Guys, thanks again for all of your help! Now I know and understand what's missing, but what do you fellas recommend for a good clutch (keeping in mind the aluminum flywheel if it matters), pressure plate and throwout bearing? Shoeboxford.com has some but not all of the pieces. The only things I haven't been able to locate are the the original clutch and pressure plate. Of course I'd replace the clutch, but does the pressure plate wear out and need replacing too? Just wondering... you know, IF I find the original!
Like brake rotors, pressure plates can warp or be gouged by disk rivets if worn. A lotta folks have had real good experiences with http://www.fortwayneclutch.com/ for parts, repairs, rebuilds, etc. Jack E/NJ
The general thinking is that while you have it all apart install both a new clutch and a new pressure plate. It's just good insurance.
I have a Weber Flywheel, pressure plate and Disk in my coupe. Works great. I would get the flywheel and pressure plate assy balanced at your machine shop prior to install. Never hurts.
This is a timely thread for me, am rebuilding a '52 flathead. Looking at a '49-53 truck flywheel (11" clutch), will that work with the bellhousing style Daddio posted pic of on this thread? Sorry to hijack the conversation but at least it is in the same context (i.e. clutch).
Hijack away man! I want to learn everything I possibly can! I'm now immersing myself in SBC distributor conversions for the Flathead!
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