Projects '62 Ford Unibody LSR Truck

Hey Tim with an .080 overbore will that change your cl*** any?

 

Hey Tim, those pistons look just like mine in the Falcon engine @ 13.5 to 1! Did you get them from Ted or order them direct?
Glen

 

I had Ted get them for me, he has a good relation with Wiseco and knows the details for the dome and plug possition.

The engine in it is .060 right now and 301ci, .080 will make it 304ci that will still keep me in "D" cl*** with a limit of 305ci

 

Well I finally got that rusty old Y apart, not an easy job as it had been sitting for years outside. I had to pull the crank first then beat the pistons out, most of them lost their heads before exiting. It is a std. bore though and even with a few rust pits I think it will make .080" over. If not I have a back up block, also std. bore and in much better shape. If I don't use it for the Uni the second one will be made into a 309ci stroker (292 +.030" with a 312 crank) with ECZ-G heads that I will sell to help finance this summers racing.





Parts removed, the clean core had a very nice std. crank the other a .020"/.030" with wore out bearings. It also had the ever popular "top oiling kit".

 

OK! I've got both blocks cleaned up now and the rusty P.O.S. is not in too bad of shape. I did need to sleeve one cylinder but it was because of a crack not the rust. The crack may have come from me beating the piston out. One nice thing is when boring for the sleeve (1/8" wall) I went over 4" and never busted into water. This is a C2AE block.





After boring I relieved the block around the intake valves, the old gasket makes a nice mark to follow. Next I will align bore and "square" the decks to equal distance from the center line.

 

Beautiful! Wish I were closer. Would like to learn something about the whole process. I will have to live it out through your pictures.......

 

Looks good Tim.

 

Thanks Trent. I told you I was busy last night.

 

Looking good Tim. No rest for the weary.

 

I am getting dizzy, which build thread am I on again!?

 

wow Tim you are on a mission again!!!................. can't wait to hear this one going down the salt!!!!

 

I will be at El Mirage to hear that one run!

 

Looking good, Tim!

 

Looking forward to El Mirage this year ! ! !

 

Decked the block today at lunch. The jig I use squares each surface with the crank centerline and 90* from the other. It's amazing how far off some blocks can be. I also check to be sure each deck is equal distance from the crank center.

 

Great job Tim just don't set it up like that on a flattie.........

 

Planning time for 2012. I am driving out on Wednesday so I am there for tech on thursday. Bringing some extra shape in some form. After the mudbath last year I heard up the hill WEST of the bend is a better/drier place to camp.

 

I don't know, I like it ON the Bend so you can see who is going by.

 

I am talking 100 yards West or so on the other side of the curve. I was told it was better ground?

 

More work tonight. Finished honing the block and align honed the mains. Took very little off the caps so as not to raise the centerline. I will check all four corners with the pistons in place before final ***embly.









I also had a chance to start on the balancing.

 

nice work as usual Tim!!!!

 

Ground the crank for Jake yesterday. I'm staying with the stock 3.3" stroke but need to cut the rod journals down from 2.188" to 2.0" to be able to use the the "H" beam rods I have (6.320" length). Since I have so much material to work with I figured I would "blueprint" it. Normally when you grind a crank you just copy the old jounal and take it down .010", .020" or whatever size it needs to go. Using a dial indicator mounted in the "steady rest" you rotate the crank in the machine and adjust the chucks accordingly.

So this time I set the stroke on the headstock and tailstock to exactly 3.3", centered on the #1 journal and as I moved to each other journal I just used the 90* index in the chucks. It was amazing to see just how far off the crank was from journal to journal, sometimes as much as .050" but since I had .188" to work with it was no problem to grind it true. I'm not sure if this is just sloppy production or if the crank has "twisted" a bit over the last 50 years of running but it seems a bit much although you would never see any real effect in a basic street engine.

After rough grinding I reset the crank and did the same thing, ground on the 90* index, and sure enough it came out right on.

I always dress the edge of each stone before grinding to get the proper radius in the journal, this is overlooked by many shops and is the reason for a lot of broken cranks.



292 crank in the 270 Van Norman



Rough grinding the throw.




Now finish grinding to 2"



After the crank was polished I took it home and mocked up the engine to check the cam timing, piston to deck height, and see hoe close the index was. I was very pleased to see that it all came out near perfect. Decks are exactly 90* from each other, decks are equal distance from the crank centerline, and pistons are .003" - .005" from the deck @ TDC in all holes.






But I was most pleased to see that when I found absolute TDC on #1 and checked the other three journals they were all at TDC exactly 90* from each other. This is pretty darn close to blueprint.

Here's a little video of my finding, I'm not the best at explaining things so I hope you can follow. At least I know what I'm saying.

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Detail detail! Wish you were closer!

 

Nice thread....now I am late for work

 

Yeah, I was wondering about that, too... A lot of guys are on the "Follow the Yellow Brick" road.

 

I have questions about the Brick race truck. Was it twitchy because of the very short wheelbase? Is that part of the reason you decided on the longer wheel base for the unibody? Do both trucks have a limited slip rear?

 

Charlie (Yellow Brick owner) is putting the brick back on the street. He yanked the cage and is installing it in his soon to be completed NEW LSR truck. You can see the progress on Facebook

Tim, you made me hungry last night!

 

The long wheelbase does help but the "Brick" had other issues such as "bump steer" The geometry was off on the drag link. If you watch the in cab footage you can see how it dives to the right when you unload it for the shift. Not an issue with "Jake" thanks to the fine work of Bigredtodd.

Niether truck uses a limited slip, although I'm going to try a spool this year.

 

Yeah, I have that effect on people.

 

Oh yeah! I forgot, we also degreed the cam yesterday. After "index grinding" the crank the cam read 6* advanced but we got that worked out with our Roll Master timing set. Here's a little video for you to enjoy.

There was no Beer used durring the filming of this video.

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