i need to spread this spring. i want to weld a 1/2" by 2" bar stock on the inside near the eye, so i can spread this spring. i tried raising the rear with wood under the spring, it picks the car up off the jack stands. i got it to 3" but the center to center is 1 1/2" for the shackles. IF YOU KNOW A NOTHER WAY PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I DON'T WANT TO WELD ON THIS NEW SPRING. JAN.
Use good heavy duty C clamps to hold your block in place instead of welding. Could double up the clamps too.
NEVER ever weld on a spring unless it is an art project for non-automotive use. What are you working on? Ford? Rear spring on an A?
is the whole spring assembled? or just the main leaf? I always just install the main leaf on the rear. I can spread it by hand using my body weight. then build the spring around it.
DO NOT WELD on the spring, the heat from the welding will destroy the springyness. Break the spring down, Install the main and rebuild. Use big C-clamps and be very cautious, lots of stored energy can put a big hurt on you!!
its an Av8 stock flathead model a rear. i thought the same, with the weld, with the springie ness. i'll try C clamps. the rear is in the car. i don't want to take the spring apart. MORE IDEAS!!
Your pretty much SOL with reversed eye springs, nothing to push pull against. Save your self the turmoil and just break it down.
Why dont you want to drop the spring out of the car? I just done mine, took 15 minutes to drop the whole rearend. Put an 8" clamp on the spring, removed the centre bolt, put in a length of all thread rod, had it dismantled in another 15 minutes.
Will this work?: Take two pieces of same size heavy flat stock. Drill 2 holes in each piece, so the flat stock can lay across the leaf, and bolt the pair together with the leaf in the middle. I would think you should be able to push on that. BTW, welding to spring edges won't really kill the spring. It's in old, old, repair books showing how to weld broken spring steel bumper brackets back together. They only welded the patch brace to the edges of the bracket. BUT, you DON'T need to weld your spring just to push it
This feller here makes an excellent point. It has 4 nuts on 2 U-bolts. How much do you want to punish your self for failing to assemble the axle to the spring like you should have done in the first place?
Your going to end up doing this ^, don't bother trying anything else. Then you can assemble with a threaded rod and clampsthen eplace the rod with the correct bolt. Probably dont just trust the threaded rod without the clamps as a backup.
Chubby, if i could drop the rear down on the drums, i could do the dismantle and build it under the car. my ladder bars are welded to the axle. the drums are off the floor 4" the rear is down as far as it goes. JAN.
I made a spreader with bolts on each end that go in the spring ends. A threaded center section (think a long tie rod) puts the 'spread' in spreader.
I cut a big notch in some quater inch plate then welded those to some bolts. I put a gusset on the plate, the cut i made was also beveled. I did make my own spreader to accept these bolts that looks like the one they sell. It works on both style springs.
Make a clamp out of two short pieces of angle and use two bolts to clamp it tight to the spring up against the eye. Now repeat for the other side and use a regular spring spreader...
Well if I HAD to do it with the spring in the car, Iwould cut me a piece of heavy square tubing-2"X2"X1/4" wall- about 3 feet long. Then find four pieces of 3/8" or heavier plate about 3"X4" and drill a hole in each end of the plates. Grind off the ends of the square tube smooth and weld two plates on about 6" or 8" from each end of the tube. Then take 4 pieces of 3/8" or 1/2" all thread and a hand full of nuts and washers and crawl under the car to assemble this Rube Goldberg contraption. The tube goes on the bottom the two loose plates go on top. Tighten with care working from side to side. White lithium grease is your friend in this enterprise. Good luck!
Did exactly the same as chop top kid and it works perfect. Use a lot of respect when spreading a spring even if its just the main leaf as it is packing a LOT of energy and could really ruin your day. Never postion yourself to get taken out if it comes aprt while spreading.
"i tried raising the rear with wood under the spring, it picks the car up off the jack stands. i got it to 3" but the center to center is 1 1/2" for the shackles" My body was off the frame so I used a wooden 4x4 jammed between the frame and ceiling of the shop. If the frame cant move the rear has to go up.
got the rear spring in today. it didn't drop the stance any. i called Posie they said it has to break-in, about 300-500 miles. and its still very stiff. i did not take it out yet because i'm doing the front tomarow. JAN.
That's good news, I noticed even with my old springs that when it is lowered back down it takes a bit to settle.
Make a clamp (two square stock about 1/2") drill through the ends and bold them together (sandwiched over both spring ends) then you can use a spring spreader the regular way... Once the spring is in place remove the blocks and you're good to go. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
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