I am installing an electric fan on my 350..Just wanted to know what type of stat switch do I use to install in 350...Also wanted to know where they are available..Can I salvage one in the wrecking yard and what are they off of, Thanks Guys, Scot
We have electrics on the cars here and use a manual switch. Thermostatic switches don't have our vote of confidence.
I've had good luck in the past using Derale adjustable fan controller... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16749/ I'm going to use them again in the SBC 327 in my '35 Ford to power a couple 12" SPAL fans. I'm using a 180 degree thermostat in the engine and will probably adjust the fan controller to turn the first fan on at 185 and the second one on at 195 (using two controllers). ~Bob
So, It's my understanding that the electric fan does not need to run unless it is idle in the heat...Help me out here..Just don't have much experience with electric fans..Not a dumb***..Just new at them..Thanks
Ideally that's correct. I've used one of these switches by Southern Air for 8 years without any problem.
I'm with pasadenahotrod on this one, I just don't like the automatic fan controllers. We have had two different brands fail on my Son's cars so far. I use a simple toggle switch and a 40 amp relay to handle the load. Can't get any more simple. When I come to a light I flip the switch on and when traffic gets moving I flip it off. Done it that way for over 20 years and since I monitor my gauges constantly I rarely forget to flip the switch on or off. Now, some fans may have to run more than just at idle, depending on engine size and radiator capacity. On some days when it is 95 degrees out and I am in heavy traffic my electric fan may stay on the whole time. My radiator is chopped 8 1/2 inches so I am on the ragged edge of cooling capacity and I live in Florida with 100% humidity. Don
You get a switch that comes on at a specific temperature. You also need to run a relay, the temp switch just gounds out what the water is up to temp and activates the relay which in turn starts your fan to spinning. There is no reason to run the fan if your engine is not up to temp. When you are cruising down the highway at 900 miles an hour you are pushing enough air through the radiator already without a fan. I run a 185 degree temp switch on my small block. I got my stuff from Summit, my relay is a painless as I recall. I think the switch was a summit brand. 140K and still working just fine.
If the electric fan is a helper fan and you still have a mechanical fan spinning on the engine, then your electric fan is just ***isting in cooling, so you really only want it on when it's needed. A fan controller does just that - you decide when you want it to come on, and most controllers have a preset "off" of 10 degrees or so below the "on" setting. Then you just set it and forget it - it comes on when needed, and is off when not needed. Lots of options out there for fan controllers and the sending units/probes they use (some have a probe you stick into the fins of the radiator, while others have threaded probes you stick in the engine like a temperature gauge probe). There are also preset and adjustable types... but I use the adjustable type so that I can set exactly when I want it to turn on, and don't have to worry about "factory variations" on a preset type that doesn't quite turn on when I expected it to. ~Bob
Why would you go to a junk yard for a T stat? Buy a new one they are less then $20. You can mount the T stat in the head.
You can do mount things lots of different ways... If you're just going to use a switch on the dash, then the switch will need to attach to a relay, and the relay will switch the power on and off to the fan. The relay you'd probably want to mount in the engine bay somewhere safe, since running a fan is high power stuff (no point in routing that through the interior). If using a controller setup, you'll have a small box with a bunch of wires running to and fro, and it'll have a relay as part of it. This you'd mount somewhere in the engine bay where its safe, and then the temp probe/sender would go wherever the directions say to put it (a probe through the rad core where directed, or a sender in a spare port on the engine somewhere... on the intake probably). On my '35 Ford, I got a small aluminum box that I'll be putting the controllers in (for protection and to get them out of sight) and then will mount the box to the inner edge of the fender on the p***enger side. It should keep wiring short and keep everything neat and unobtrusive. ~Bob
I actually mount mine in the intake right next to the goose neck. I think it is more accurate, it probably isn't but I think it is. The switch and the relay even if you buy name brand will run you less than 40 bucks. I would not get one from a wrecking yard and not know the value of it, period. I said this on another thread but it applies here as well, don't cheap out its your car.
I have an automatic controller on mine that I picked up at the local parts house. Like the one that Unkledaddy shows. I also backed it up with a toggle switched circuit for emergency use. Ditto on using a relay.
The switch is on the controller and it can be mounted wherever you like as long as the location isn't beyond the range of the probe wire. I mounted my controller up underneath the radiator next to the drain with the switch knob pointing down and the probe wire coiled up with zip ties and hidden between the radiator and crossmember. The only thing somewhat visible is the sensor screwed into the drain hole with a wire coming off it and immediately bending 180 degrees back under the radiator. I say 'somewhat visible' because I painted them satin black like the radiator. When I need to adjust the thermostat I merely reach up underneath and turn the knob. Works well for my needs. Depending on your wiring harness/fuse panel, you may already have a fan relay.
For simplicity and reliability I use an toggle on/off switch and a red light to let me know it's on. As far as running at idle,only, it depends on how good your cooling system works and where and at what speed you're driving. I run mine virtually all the time, but this is in south Texas. Watch your temp. gage. I don't trust fan controllers and don't want the fan running when I stop the engine.
Slightly OT here, but maybe this will help.... here are a few pictures of a '67 Austin Healey I did. It didn't have any extra NPT ports in the engine I could use, and I didn't want to use a radiator probe, so I bought in in-hose adapter from Summit and put it inline in my upper radiator hose. Then the controller I mounted on the back side of the inner fender well, near the drier (was adding A/C at the time). Then it's just a matter of wiring it up per instructions.
If you really like messing with this stuff like I do... I'm going to add some discrete LEDs inside somewhere to let me know when each fan is on. I'll have two large fans to cool the car which will operate independently, and then will also have a small fan setup on a trans cooler, also temperature controlled. So I'll have 3 LEDs, one for each. It'll be cool to see those LEDs turn on and off as the fans work to keep things cool. ~Bob
One thing to remember about an electric fan over a mechanical is that you have to watch and keep them free. I used to run twin fans on my C-10. Both 11" fans, one on a stat switch and one on a toggle for towing and/or emergencies. Very seldom used thd second fan. I didn't watch it close enough and the dirt faubers built a nest in it. Burned it up. Then I started watching the other fan. I left the truck parked over a weekend and the dirt dubers had built a nest in it by monday morning.
All the pieces and part numbers for an electric fan set up. napa 200 degree fan switch TC6717 napa relay AR143 napa pigtail for relay EC23 napa toggle switch TG6260
You might want to check this out: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.php and this http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cooling-articles/482048-junkyard-upgrade-dual-electric-fans.html You might want to pay attention to the dual fan install when swapping a SBC or SBF with the later long water pumps into a 1949-56 Ford clearance problems may come up and that longer hub will center between the dual fans,problem solved! These fans are also a good fit if you use a 65-67 Mustang radiator which is an EZ bolt in to those same year Fords like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-66-FORD-...ng&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cfc428745#ht_2606wt_1181 which is for Mustang V8's notice the hoses are on the top right and lower right if you need the lower hose on the drivers side order a radiator for a Mustang 6 cyl.
I dont run a fan on my beater car of any kind. I also block my radiator off with cardboard. Its a good insulator. We dont have to worry about heat.... its a good thing. Im going to run electric in my Graham but if I ever move its going back to mechanical. Honestly how much $$$ will you save. Go get a mech. fan and sleep easy at night. If its not a race car that few hp is not going to be noticeable and if gas milage is a factor there is plenty of "other cars" out there. Also, go with a 'puller' behind the radiator if possible.
Bringing it back from the dead. I used this setup and it worked great. There's only one problem, a slight typo. The correct part number for the temp switch is TS6717.
The Jalopy Journal
