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Projects 29 Model A Closed Cab Pickup Project Traditional Style

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by badshifter, May 4, 2011.

  1. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 24,201

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My build has no toe-board (bottom 6" of the cab was gone), a flat firewall, and a stretched nose, so it all fits ahead of the firewall, including room for the blower belts. I will be using top swing pedals, with reverse-facing cylinders, under the dash.

    The whole build is going from the firewall back, keeping comfort in mind wherever possible.

    I am 5' 10-1/2" and slim. Most people think I am a jerk, so I would assume I will be riding alone.
     
  2. trad27
    Joined: Apr 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,221

    trad27
    Member

    Yeah, not a problem if you need any measurments or see anything up close or hell even a ride and some bench racing. PM me if you are in town. Keep us posted
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2011
  3. hotdamn
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,561

    hotdamn
    Member

    get anything done over the weekend???
     
  4. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    So, 4 or so months later and a ton of parts collecting, it got torn down today. On the chassis jig later this week for repairs, boxing, etc. More later, just keeping the project alive. Ended up with 16x4 475/500 fronts, 16x5 6.50 rears. Got a T5, yeah I know. Real traditional, may adapt it to closed drive. Cab back is beat, I have a spare somewhere...
     

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    Last edited: Oct 10, 2011
  5. billylo
    Joined: May 20, 2007
    Posts: 542

    billylo
    Member

    I love model A pickups. I can't wait to see more progress. I'm 6'1" but I would chop mine, but it's a roadster P/U. :) I say let the metal fly!!!
     
  6. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    Mocking up suspension and ride height.
     

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    Last edited: Dec 5, 2011
  7. bobscogin
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,791

    bobscogin
    Member

    Ha!! Dude, you're a tough customer! That truck is primo! Here's how ya' start with crap!

    [​IMG]

    Bob
     
  8. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    More mock-up on the rear using the stock A rear set-up out of laziness. So, today I started to build the real rear end. Early Halibrand V8 QC, with 41 axle tubes and 49 merc axles, bearing ends, side gears and brakes. 35/6 radius rods and spring behind using the A spring and crossmember.
    I cut the stock end off the tubes, and chucked the tubes in the lathe to straighten and machine for new bearing ends. I could have cut the axle ends off the donor Merc rear, but I had new ones so I used them.
    After chucking up the axle tubes, and making a draw bar to help hold them in the chuck securely, I checked them for out of round. One was bent 3/16", the other 5/16". These were stock original axle tubes. The trick I use to straighten them is to mark the low side, and make a weld on the axle tube at the point you can see where the bend takes place. In other words, I rotate the tube so the bend points down, and make a weld on the top. As the weld cools, it "pulls" the tube and with a small amount of practice you can pull the tube any direction or amount you want to get it true. After all is cool, grind the weld flush and you're done truing.
    I then machined the bearing end to fit the new bearing housings, and lightly pressed them in place. Tack weld, check for square, and final weld. I will machine the 49 Merc side gears down to fit in the QC center section, and then I'm able to use the Merc axles, backing plates, brakes etc.
    That's it for tonight.
     

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  9. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    A few misc. shots.
     

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    Okie Pete likes this.
  10. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    Tonights stuff.
     

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  11. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    Talk about slow progress! Lame, but this is whats been done in the last few days. Split the bones, made weld bungs for the bones to use NOS Ford tie rod ends,and made tapered insert mounting plates to weld to the frame. Made a piece to replace the front cross member center section that was wasted, re-shaped the 32 spindle steering arms to move the drag link as close to the bones as possible for frame clearance and correct ackerman(lots of heat and move slowly). Will relocate the rear crossmember tomorrow. Moving it back 7.5 inches for the spring behind setup. Not a day goes by that someone tells me that the stuff I'm making (weld bungs, mounts, etc.) can be bought for less! True, but not the point for me..
     

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  12. red29ford
    Joined: Sep 20, 2011
    Posts: 4

    red29ford
    Member

    do not chop it. they look better stock height. Nice starter.
     
  13. 5_guy
    Joined: Jul 28, 2011
    Posts: 162

    5_guy
    Member
    from Upland, CA

    Nice build, hope mine comes out a good.
     
  14. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

  15. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    Todays progress, stretched the frame for the spring behind setup, made some not so traditional looking C notches (did not want to step the frame as I don't want the rear cross member to stick up into the bed) and made engine mounts. Still to do is a 3rd link/torque arm before the body goes on to locate steering box. Build K member, box frame and stuff like that.
     

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    Okie Pete likes this.
  16. red29ford
    Joined: Sep 20, 2011
    Posts: 4

    red29ford
    Member

    here is mine. not chopped or cut.
     
  17. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    Rear wishbone done, F100 steering box done, body back on for fitting and shimming. Will re-install bed and redrill mounting holes, as the frame got stretched 7.5 inches for the spring behind rear setup. Gaining momentum as I go.... Gonna mount the pedals this week and then box frame and install legs for K member/center crossmember. I installed the engine/trans forward and low, I gots me some foot room, and room for pedals, exhaust and a battery. The lower firewall is out at the moment, it will get a slight setback that will look stock. Yes it's getting floors.
     

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  18. 60 ford
    Joined: Nov 23, 2007
    Posts: 1,807

    60 ford
    Member

    Nice build, Looks great.
     
  19. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,185

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    Pretty cool build. Appreciate the info on straightening axle tubes back on page 2.
     
  20. shep_911
    Joined: Feb 7, 2012
    Posts: 27

    shep_911
    Member

    looks like a great start to a bitchin ride
     
  21. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    Cleaning up my laptop, found old build pics.
    IMG_5310.jpg

    IMG_5467.jpg

    IMG_5719.jpg

    IMG_5889.jpg

    IMG_5893.jpg
     
  22. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    Now I remember why I quit posting pictures...
     

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  23. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,588

    badshifter
    Member

    That's it for now.
     

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  24. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,712

    55willys
    Member


    I have done SBC in a 30-31 pickup without cutting the firewall. I used a zipper high rise water pump to center the mechanical fan (if you have room for electric fan then a mechanical will fit) and it clears the radiator by 3/8".

    The fire wall I filled the electrical box holes and stretched the metal a bit with a low crown body hammer. The distributer just clears and the boot on the plug wires touching. The distributer can be removed with engine in place. The passenger side valve cover clears by about 3/8". As I said this was a 30-31 have not done a SBC in a 28-29 but I do believe the firewalls end up in the same location.

    The top chop can be done by reducing the header panel to 1 1/2" and then take the upper back panel cut off the flanges and use a brake to reflange the top and bottom to match the amount cut off the header. The rest of the chop is straight forward but I like to chop the doors close to the top and carefully align the window channel making my adjustments in the outside by splitting the outside of the door vertically to make it flow smoothly.

    I have a 28-29 closed cab that I chopped 6" by using this method and also cutting down the lower back panel. I only took 3" out of the windshield. Jim (55willys)
     
  25. 4 banger 4 life
    Joined: Jan 26, 2014
    Posts: 301

    4 banger 4 life
    Member
    from ohio

    Nice old truck... keep the pics comming..
     

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