So your prized swap meet find was for sale for a reason …. The kingpins are lose and or the camber is way off Lets fix it ourselves with minimal tools Camber change …..stuff you’ll need Angle finder Vice / or a way to hold axle level Lose spindle Kingpin 30 + ton press Here’s how I hold axles level … (because I do this allot) …. Obviously if your just doing this only a time or two a sturdy mounted vice will do …. You do have one yes? The subject today is Gary’s (Krylon 32) Deuce axle that needs some help. First level the axle As in real level ..... (Real level is 39 bucks at home depot...buy2) Next put on a spindle and see were your at … in this case 2.7 degrees positive (a bit much) Next move it to the press A thick plate and an ***ortment of blocks to shim it with are key Bend away but go slow and check often or you will be doing VVVV THIS! VVVV After a few times back and forth checking you should have it … You want to put in about a degree and a half positive for a stock ford axle (((need to check specks for other makes))) And that’s about it BTW It takes about 25 to 30 tons to move / bend it so you will need a bit more than a HF press I use a pruned down 32 spindle but a uncut one works fine.
Now for that pesky Kingpin hole thats lose Stuff you will need Torch 13/16 ream................... (ford axles) Hammers Punchs ..........................(br*** to use on your good kingpin) 2 king pins ....................(1 junk and 1 good) A way to run a ream .......(I use an impact ) Die Grinder with a ¾ stone The Ream (ebay 30 bucks) weld a socket on The subject is a random A model axle from the pile...stick that ****er in the vice (you still got that solid vice yes?) Now you need an undersize king pin I take an old one and first cut the head off Next grind it down anyway you can … I use the belt. You want to remove probably 5 thousands or more depending obviously how bad / lose the hole is....round the ends real good. Next you want all your using close at hand Heat the effected area Drop in the pin And peen aground the area quickly from the very end and work around the sides. Effectively shrinking the hole....then quick (before its stuck) grab that close at hand punch and knock the pin out. Think of it kind of like how they resize the big end on a connecting rod...making the hole smaller. Next run that ream in there....like after it cools. Next if your reams like mine its worn and a bit undersize …. So hone with the die grinder to an exact fit. Note Your probably thinking … why not use a hone? Well I don’t because the hole isn’t always round / I want to grind on one side more than the other. Taping in a (good) king pin will tell you were you need to grind … it will make a scuff mark in the hole. Now the good / full size pin is fitting good and snug ... i like um were they take a bit of light tapping to go in. Thats it Kids ..... little to nothing to it ...
Cool tech, I always wondered how it was done. However, just like my last 2 axles, my next one will be at your place for the works.
Well Larry iv seen a few that have been reamed larger and bushed back down to size. Doing it that way you end up with a very thin axle end with a very thin bushing .that doesnt want to stay tight in the hole. Thinking about an easer and better solution I decided to try this.
Well done and very useful info for a lot of people. Or it may be the deciding factor when it comes to boxing the axle up and shipping it off to you for the work.
Very informative thread indeed, I wasn't willing to part with my dropped axle and it now looks like I don't have to. Cheers
Thank you everyone that voted for this one. I guess next time it will need to be super duper basic done with a rock and stick
this is awesome. another 'thanks!' but is there a reason (i'm sure there is) that you don't heat the axle when adjusting the camber?
Have you ever had to shrink the kingpin bore of a V8-60 axle? And what is your opinion on welding up the windows in the ends?
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