cam break in sbc?

What do I use ,To coat cam .....Its been a long time and also do I need additive and what do I use after Oil change................Its a 69 camaro 327 for my model A with tripower .....

 

The cam should some with a packet of assembly lube. Then either use break in oil. Or you can add a bottle of break in additive to regular oil

I used Comp Cams break in additive, cost about $20.

Figured it was worth $20 on a $2000 rebuild.

 

Cam manufactures will sell you a cam assy/break-in lube. Then I use Zddplus every oil change.

 

A new cam usually comes with break in lube, if not go to any reputable parts house and buy a tube of cam break in lube. it will say cam shaft breakin lube right on the package.

As for additive, I donot recall the numbers but GM makes a real sweet berak in oil additive. Just go to the local GM dealer and ask them or maybe someone will post it here.

I don't put additives in my oil, I just use good quality oil, like castrol. usually once your cam is burnished (broke in) it is going to be alright. Someone will say I'm wrong but that has been my experience.

 

G.M. EOS

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...nce+88862586+-+GM+Performance+E.O.S.+Additive

 

Brad Penn (The Green Oil) for break in besides the GM EOS.

I'd continue to run Brad Penn well past break in because of the ZDDP Zinc Dialkyldothiophosphate.

 

Beano, my understanding is that the GM EOS is now Zinc free or way too little to make any difference.????

 

Thanks guys,I have to check the box the cam came in and Ill probably use the comp cam stuff additive and Ill reread what to use for an additive,So many additives out there,Only reason Im using comp cam stuff its a comp cam.......

 

I just used a hydraulic roller... hahaha!

Make sure you use additive in the oil for a hydraulic cam.

 

The cam assembly lube they give you is thin. If you're going to start your new engine soon after assembly then the assembly lube is OK. But if you're going to let the engine sit for awhile then you might want to use moly-paste, as it's thicker and won't run off.

 

Use stock valve springs for break in if ya can. Seat pressure can kill one too.

 

Please put delo 400 in you motor and also run lucas break in additive as well this is a must with a flat tappet cam and has worked great for many years and no diesel oil is fine in gas motors you can continue to run it for added protection you will be very happy with the results.

 

use the assembly lube. Then use a break in oil, that is a break in oil only. I think I used lucas break in oil last time.

Then I started my truck up, reved it at 2k for 20 min and then let it idle for a min to cool down and shut it off. Then new filter and I used and still use wally world supertec oil and then ad ZDDP. 18k on that engine and still going so I must have done something right.

 

is a crate motor all ready broke in?? just though i would asked

 

cam lube:
http://www.penngrade1.com/Products/High-Performance/Assembly.aspx

brad penn break in oil:
http://www.penngrade1.com/Products/High-Performance/Break-In-Oil.aspx

then regular brad penn afterwards:
http://www.penngrade1.com/Products/High-Performance/SAE-10W30.aspx

 

The motor is broken in less than 30,000 just doing a cam change,It currently has a fireball cam in it from comp cams,292 duration and I forget the lift but its smaller than the 501,,,Im setting the car up to drive 300 rear gear ratio and just an rv towing cam with tripower ,I think its a 3102 by comp.Im gonna go check the numbers at there site right now....Im working from memory of 20 minutes ago,Im 43 and going senile.....Lol

 

be sure during the first 30 minutes the rpm is 2000+ or your cam will die . the rpm keeps it from wiping off the lobes .................

 

Im definately senile .Edelbrock cam 2102 .........

 

I was just quizzing the service manager at Cable Dahmer the other day and he said it was still the same stuff. of course that doesn't mean that he read the most recent service bulliten or any of them for that matter. good to know, that is all I have used for ever.

 

ABSOLUTELY use zinc additive,... Cams are a bit on the pricey side,...not to mention a lot of metal running thru the engine! Additive is cheap insurance.

4TTRUK

 

Also used ZDDP Based on what was recommended so I didn't wipe out the cam. Got 4 bottles off of Ebay. 20 minutes at 2,000 RPM.

Forgot to add I used the Shell Rotella oil also based on information on the web.

 

I use the asembly lube that comes with the cam, then a bottle of Comp Cams breakin lube. For oil I use Shell Rotella, plus a bottle of ZDDP additive. After the 20 min. breakin, I drive for another 500 miles, then drain the oil and change the filter.
I always use the Rotella and ZDDP in my regular oil changes for my flat tappet cam engines. It's proven to give my engines excellent wear resistance.

 

Once you have done the 20+ minute break-in ... pull the distributor and take a look at the drive gear on the distributor. I had TWO Edelbrock cams eat the gear on the dist and the cam minutes after break-in. Installed a Comp Cam and problem vanished. I am now a firm believer in buying a cam from a cam company.

 

Use cam lubricant along with Brad Penn break in oil it has the right amount of zinc and phosphorous in it.

 

I just had a cam go flat in three different places in a brand-new motor because I failed to use the additive. I just didn't know that you need to use it. While quizzing the tech at Comp Cams, he said the EPA made the oil manufacturers remove the zinc in oil, which is why you now need the additive. Or something along those lines. Anyway, please learn from my mistake!

 

I just went through this. I got assembly lube from a parts store. I don't remember the brand.



I used this stuff as an additive with the missing zinc. It claims it restores the zinc that is missing from the modern oils. I broke the cam in as usual and all seems to be well. It's available everywhere. It worked for me.