hello all, so im building a tall T, its been a blast and ive been working on my toxic Tee for about year and a half and doing it on the cheap. so nights and weekends when the woman will let me this is what ive come up with. 300 6 with twin turbos c-4 rervers manual and a 9" out back with 3:55. after getting weight on it and tires i could see as i worked the steering that the frame wiggled back and forth but it drove okay but thought it would be safe so I though id build a front pan hard rod and after i did it seems to turn hard to the right and easy to the left. what did I do wrong? please help
Check out post #5 on this post. Similar setup to yours, but with a more correct looking shackle angle. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=481506 Im no expert but I think you either need to change the width that your spring perches are mounted or get a narrower spring.
How much caster? Anything over 5-7degrees will put a strain on your steering because when wheels turn to the right it raises the car. Panhard bar is very common on the front. There can't be any frame 'wiggle' if the frame is moving then the suspension can't work right and if the front suspension can't work right then the steering won't work right - you'll see what i mean when you do an off-camber turn with a slight rise/hill, it'll put your asshole between your shoulderblades.
with car sitting on the floor and a magnetic angle fnder im right at 6 degrees.think i will look more into the shackels not at 45.. do they have to be 45 on the dot? might be able to move them over but i dont think i can get 45 degrees. eitherr way its been a great project.
With a correctly designed and mounted Panhard bar shackle angle isn't near as important as on a car with no Panhard bar. The bar controls the potential rocking of the axle/frame. Thats why the late 40's Fords ran panhard bars. Longer shackles with less spring preload meant a softer ride.
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