Looking at it from the underside, it appears the crack didn't go thru. I am sure that is not the case though. My friend I got it from remembered it being it useable as is. We'll see soon enough.
I have one of those heads on the 29 A coupe I bought last summer. I was told that it was the favorite head to use by a local model A restorer,that built the engine. I sure would like to know why they needed a licence from Chrysler,to produce it,for a Ford. I can tell that this engine has a lot of power,with just that head,and a "B" cam,no other mods. I would like to know when it was made,and where.
all i know about them is that they were an aftermarket cast iron head, they were high compression, licensed by chrysler motors but not made by them, but since it used the ricardo combustion chamber chamber design it was licensed from chrysler. they were a nice little addition to the model A's performance!
After spending an hour searching the small amount of info on the net about it, this sums it up. It was licensed by chrysler because of the design. I don't want to tear into the engine and do inserts or a cam. So I really want to know what the ratio is with this head, as I don't want to go more that about 6.4 to one with the stock motor.
you should think about having the head magnafluxed, and maybe rewelded by tig if anything shows up, just an idea, haibe produced a head very simular if not the same!
Bill, it is the same. I talked to Charlie Yapp. He said it is indeed 6.1 to 1 with some small variences due to manufacturing. I am going to have it magnafluxed and if it checks out I will see if they can do the CC measurement and confirm it with known heads on the market today. Do you think it is a noticable difference from the stock 4.2 to 1? I posted this in the banger thread, and will let everyone know what I find out over the next week.
I like it I for got what a slug the stock engine is until I drove my new Tutor. When I 1st got my car I did a 94 carb and a hart shaped head That was much better And now with a b cam trimmed fly wheel it runs real nice for having next to know money into this engine
Cool, elmitcheristo, Mitch here on the hamb has been giving me some advice on which way to go in some areas and he had lots of good things to say about lightening the flywheel.
There is one of those simmons head for sale locally. I got a 30 Model A. If I would bolt that head on the original engine How hard would it be on the maine bearings? Would there be no issue? Can you run that head without touching carb or ignition? How mush is it worth?
I got mine magnafluxed, it has six light cracks on the top where the water flow is. I am going to run it anyways, just might seep. As far as bearings and other upgrades go. As far as my research, you can do just the head and nothing else if you want. It is a 6.1 to 1 compression ratio. From what I have learned that is a significant uprade from the stock low 4's to 1 range. Anything above 7 to 1 seems to require modern style bearings, or at least a fresh tight stock rebuild. I think that the head may be the single biggest bolt on upgrade compared to the distributor or intake. I will do all three along with a header. But all bolt on stuff. As far as cost goes, I am not sure. Mine was given to me. A new Snyders is $300 or so. I think it could be in the $300 dollar range if it was crack free. Have it checked BEFORE you buy it so you know where it stands. Good Luck!
remember heavy flywheels and hi compression heads dont go together look at the start of the banger thread for details of lightening flywheels
Russ, I know your knowledgeable about the 40 bangers. Can you shed some light on the cons of running the head with a stock flywheel. Being a 6.1 to 1, are whatever risks that might be minimized? I fully understand the lightening of the flywheel, just hadn't correlated the two.
High compression means the motor will stop quicker Ford built these motors to be under stressed using the flywheel to give more pulling power on hills ect more compression loads the crankshaft as the weight of the flywheel trys to carry the car forward after the motor is held back by compression causing the crank to snap.
Absolutely makes sense. Thanks form the explanation. I got the head back. It had one crack that previously was welded up. The found five new ones that as on the water flow top side. Without much water pressure I am tempted to run it as is. I think at most it would seep minimally. They also took .010 off the bottom. I will post this on the banger thread as well.
I finaly got the head. I will need to get it checked out . It looks real good. thanks for the info. I may pick up a nother motor and set it up for that head.
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