How much to pay for 59AB block?

I know, total newbie question... Guy locally has one that he's selling for $500, but that seems rather steep to me. He said I can take it and have it magnafluxed, etc., and if there are issues, I can return it. What do you think? Thanks!

 

just the block? empty nothing else with it?

 

It seems a lot steep to me. I just got this 8CM for $300.00.

pigpen

 

If its a bare block then it is a little pricey. If it's complete, another story.

 

It's pretty much common knowledge that flathead blocks are often cracked. Some of the smaller cracks can be either lived with or repaired depending on where they are.

From what I've read on this board it's not too uncommon to go through 5 or 10 flatty blocks to find a good builder. A block that's guaranteed to be good for 5 bills is a lot cheaper and easier in the long run compared to finding, tearing down and crack checking numerous 2 to 3 hunderd dollar complete engines.

Food for thought, none based on personal experience just from doing research here on the HAMB.

For $500 the seller should pay for the crack checking in my opinion.Good luck.

 

That’s a ok price for one with a guarantee.
My dad spent a grand for one that was maged – baked – tumbled – presser tested and bored. I feel that was a hell of a deal.

 

Thanks for all the advice, guys...

So I went over to this guy's place this morning to check out the motor, and lo and behold, it wasn't a 'block', but a complete motor that 'was running when pulled'. We'll see about that, I guess. It's complete with clutch/pressure plate, heads (which I'll replace anyhow), starter, etc. Is this starting to sound like a better deal now? He had at least 3 other motors there (8BA's), all complete and for sale. I don't think he has been making much of an effort to sell them though - the 59 he's had for 2 years. I'm gonna go back and make him an offer, I think. Which year(s) was the fan run off the crank vs. the generator? This one is off the crank...

Thanks again for all the help, everyone.

Josh

 

Tooooooooo much. unless it's a perfect block with absolutely no cracks . I'd keep looking for an 8BA.

 

So is that the general concensus - that the 8BA is preferable to the 59AB? Reasons for one vs the other? He does have like 3 8BA's as well, I just thought that the 59 was the desirable one... should I think about getting an 8BA instead?

 

No! 59's are more desirable and my personal favorite (although 8BA's are pretty much the same engine.) If you have a choice go with a 59-they look better and are earlier.
-Dean

 

The most important thing is that the block is good, whichever style you go with. As for the "59ab look", it's up to you. The heads, intake, and accessories are interchangable between the two types (59ab and 8ba) blocks with minor work. So if you have a good 8ba motor and want to throw on some 59ab heads, you can mount them with some water passage holes getting plugged. Do a search as this has been discussed in length here.

Again, you can't beat a good core block for the base.

 

Well Lets see me and my dad kinda have a Flat-hedge.
We paid 0, 50, and 400 for complete cracked fords, and 800 for a fresh runner and 250 for a smoker and 500 for a 52 merc that needs a bore.

 

Is there a particular place they are prone to crack that I can check with the naked eye should I take one I have here, apart?

I figured if I parted with just the motor and trans in my woodie, I'd ask around $500 - which is like $300 for the motor, $100 for the trans, and $100 for my time pulling it. But if I can check it for the most obvious of cracks first, who knows maybe it would help me get rid of the whole mess.

Thanks...

 

I'm using an 8ba for a mock-up block with a merc bell and have a 59ab runner and 39 tranny and i was wondering how close the motor mounts are between the motors???

 

In the scheme of things, if it is a good block and it cost you a 100 or 200 more then maybe some say it is worth, who cares as it will save you time and money searching for another. Gas to go looking at other engines could add to the $100 in no time.

In the long run spending an extra $100 or 200 on the motor will be unnoticeable I am guession.

Go for it..................

 

From what you say, it's a complete engine with what amounts to a guarantee, if you can inspect and return--I'd call that a good buy.
Pull heads and closely scrutinize the area between valves and bores with flashlight, carb cleaner, and wire brush in hand to be sure you aren't wasting your time hauling a dead player to the machine shop.