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finally found a hot rod project i can afford

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by philbo, Mar 20, 2012.

  1. philbo
    Joined: Dec 17, 2008
    Posts: 6

    philbo
    Member
    from ks

    so after having been on this forum for over 3 years just lurking i have finally found a project i can afford that fits the forum. and i have a few questions.
    It is a 1929 ford phone booth (tall cab?) pickup.
    The truck was a farm truck looks to have been the heavy duty version (3/4ton?) the wheel base seems longer than any other model A i am seeing but i have never actually measured one so it could be an illusion caused by the flat bed on it, each side of the axle has a spring pack running perpendicular to the frame as opposed to a mono spring running crosswise.
    anybody have any information on the type of truck i am talkign about?
    i dont have pictures yet, it needs work. the fenders are all mangled from where cows and bulls rubbed on them, and both doors have holes from bull horns, rust in lower corners of cowl and doors and several other issues, but hey it's 83 years old and been in a pasture so can't expect to much.
    but i finally have a hotrod project!
     
  2. Sancho
    Joined: Apr 24, 2001
    Posts: 5,036

    Sancho
    Member

  3. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,589

    oj
    Member

    Bull horn holes! Jesus, i thought i have had to deal with odd issues, but holes from bull horns?
    Have fun with your new truck and get the odd pic posted ok?
     
  4. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 34,076

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    hope that your fabrication skills are really good. if not, one way to learn.
     
  5. philbo
    Joined: Dec 17, 2008
    Posts: 6

    philbo
    Member
    from ks

    Joker: yep. one way to learn, wont be fixing the fenders, i'll be going fenderless so that is one less thing to worry about, and luckily most of the damage is in areas where the panel only had a slight vurve from the factory so should be fairly easy to fabricate compared to if on a body line.
    Sancho: ya that looks like what i got, thanks... any similarities in the frame between the AA and A? i would rather have it on a light duty frame with a shorter wheel base, plus a small bobbed bed in the back. any way (with relative ease) to modify a AA frame to A dimensions?
     
  6. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,740

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    Cut it off where a Model A frame ends, kick it up, and attach a Model A rear crossmember? I remember seeing a HAMBster do that in about 2002 and it ended up as a decent looking, stout platform (like Deuce rails).

    -Dave
     
  7. oldcootnco
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 67

    oldcootnco
    Member

    Most definetly an AA from your description. I can give you a little insight on what you will find. The front axle will accept different spindles(37-41 etc)but you can't convert the AA's spindles. The bearing sizes are different,the wheel bolt pattern is 5x6.75. If it was'nt beat on tooooo hard there is plenty of springs in the front spring pack,so you can build what ever ride you want. The ****** could be a four speed or a stock 3 with a high low behind. The grille shell could be a liitle thicker because they used a different radiator core.
    The front crossmember is different than a stock A and rivets they used were huge. I think they are .375 dia. The frame itself is m***ive, rail thickness is all of 3/16 inch by 6inches deep.(an F-1 crossmember will fit nicely)
    This is where things get a little away from stock A's. The frame will measure the same as any A to about the middle of the cab. This frame doesn't spread out like the car or lite truck. Do not despair stock, car fenders ,splash aprons, will work. There are two holes located at the back of the cab where it bolts to the frame. The inside ones is for the big trucks the out side ones are for the lite truck or car.
    The rearend could be worth some $ to a restorer if it has a tag still attached,some had a high speed rearend. If not the springs and rear weigh @ 850 lbs. That is what mine weighed at the s****per. The rear part of the frame where the spring brackets etc are very proned to cracks. The wheelbase on mine was 132,the Wescot drawing said the stock A's is 103.5.
    The neat thing about your truck is that you don't have to feel bad about cutting stuff up,the steers beat you to it. Enjoy the build.
     
  8. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 5,254

    rusty rocket
    Member

    I think id just order a new model a ch***is.
     
  9. philbo
    Joined: Dec 17, 2008
    Posts: 6

    philbo
    Member
    from ks

    ya no real spare cash for that i have a son on the way so i gotta try and do this as budget as possible. thank you oldcoot for the info
     
  10. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,740

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    I'm guessing from the thread ***le that the OP doesn't exactly have a water-cooled checkbook.

    -Dave
     
  11. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,291

    F&J
    Member

    Yes they sure can do a job on a farm truck.

    Sounds like a cool project start...what's wrong with an early A truck? Nothing. :)
     
  12. WILLYSDOCTOR
    Joined: Oct 3, 2007
    Posts: 74

    WILLYSDOCTOR
    Member

    I have been thru this cut-down process with my 1934 " BB " pickup . Not quite the same but close enough to let you know it is very possible ! Here is what I previously posted :

    Yes , Heavy Truck frames will work fine but there are some major differences so expect some extra fabrication. Having been thru this in the past year on my 34 pickup , I will list some differences and modifications I made . Pictures of my 1934 " BB " former Texaco Gasoline Tanker to follow.

    Frames are much thicker ( I measured .230" after surface rust ) and 7 inches tall along the center rails. Upper rail " C " is 2 3/4" wide, Lower is 2 7/8" wide. They are very heavy and should not require boxing. I boxed mine for insurance as my engine combo and four speed is sure to add some stress when the loud pedal is depressed. Oh Yea , Did I mention they are heavy !

    The Front Leaf Spring on the BB is 2 1/2" wide . I had posies make me a 2" custom spring then slightly modified the Crossmember pocket to fit. The original front axle is way too large to look good. Spindles & Kingpins are also larger .

    I used a 1937 Ford car front axle , so stock 37 spindles could be used. I drilled out the 37 axle to accept the BB spring perch pins and made spacers for below the axle as the wishbone fork dimension is larger . Front Wishbone's have a much thicker wall and are bit longer. Standard Weld in bungs for splitting Bones were too small for ends. I narrowed Spring perch pin eyes to match the new spring

    The second crossmember at the Engine bellhousing is M***ive and hangs very very low .... Trim or make a new smaller one if additional ground clearance is needed.

    I removed about 40 Inches of the straight side rails, Used a portion of them for my kickup in the rear . Stock BB Rear suspension is parallel leaf and way to large for a hot rod ... I back halfed it anyway so no difference to me. Stock cab will fit fine ... I channed mine 5 inches & moved it back a bit so slight mods will be necessary at my cab front edges .

    Keep in mind Aftermarket " Bolt On " items like crossmembers , brake pedal mounts ect. would all need modifications when using the larger frame .

    Hope this helps .... Here are a few pics of my " BB "
    Willysdoctor
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  13. philbo
    Joined: Dec 17, 2008
    Posts: 6

    philbo
    Member
    from ks

    thank you all so far for the comments, so what i am gathering is that i can make this frame work with just shortening it and maybe kickign it up in the rear, switch to a regular A rear crossmember to use a transverse spring or make up my own cross member.
    front axle is useable just need 37-41? spindles to use newer hydraulic brakes and they will fit? (the spindles)
    should i look at a different front spring or would this one work with just removing some leaves?

    thanks
     
  14. Verbal Kint
    Joined: Aug 4, 2004
    Posts: 3,221

    Verbal Kint
    Member
    from Washington

  15. Raven53
    Joined: Jan 12, 2009
    Posts: 442

    Raven53
    Member
    from Irwin Pa

    Good for you, I cant wait to watch your progress and follow the thread
     
  16. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,629

    31Apickup
    Member

    The cabs are the same whether it's a model A pickup or AA. Some of the 28-29's have the rear window in a different location (higher) on the AA's. You can come by stock model A frames cheaply or just modify the AA ch***is. The AA front cross member is arched and sets the truck much higher. Good luck on your project.
     
  17. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,629

    badshifter
    Member

    You could about buy a complete Model A frame if you look around for what you can get in s**** money for the AA ch***is. Or try to sell the AA ch***is. You'd be time and money ahead. In about half a day you could swap your body on a new A frame and be well on you way. Make sure you square away registration/***le BEFORE you sink a bunch of time and money. You have no doubt seen the threads asking for ***le help after it's too late. Pics man pics!
     
  18. Koz
    Joined: May 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,786

    Koz
    Member

    I'm n agreement with Badshifter. The AA frames are just so damn heavy it's not worth it! The time spent making the AA frame into something it isn't could be spent on much more productive things and you'll have a better truck in the end if you swap.
     

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