bars leak block seal liquid copper

Does anyone have experience with this product? Is this the magic in a bottle or just a gimmick?

I have a crack in my 216 block next to the generator and every morning I am adding water to the radiator to get to work, then I add water again after I leave work. Sometimes in traffic I have to pull over and add more water. I have gotten used to carrying 3 gallons of water for the just in case moments, but they are coming all too soon. Not trying to be cheap just trying to get by for now. I have a lead on another 216 but its in Cali amd I need to look into shipping costs.

Thanks for any help positive or negative

 

Works sometimes, worth a shot. Not gonna hurt anything if it fails.

 

Why not use this as a reason to go to a full pressure 235?

 

+1, what have you got to lose?

 

I dont know if Ryan allows this word to be said on here but if I get banned then I will find out its not allowed. Here goes...........

I am, gulp, restoring this truck and I want to maintain the originality of it.

 

I'd try JB weld, if you can see it and its easy to get to.

 

I added a 18Oz bottle to my radiator tonight. I will see how it turns out. Just hoping someone else was going to tell me they have had good experience. I will be the guinea pig for the board

 

I wouldn't use it in anything I planned on keeping. it really clogs things up. I used it to get a few more months out of a headgasket a while back in my old beater. I had a temp gauge I wasn;t using so I was going to thread it in to a drain hole on the side of the block. when I finally got the plug out it was full of ****. no water even came out.

 

Get some Blue devil.....
http://www.usasealants.com/products/blue-devil-head-gasket-sealant/

 

good for you! But if you are serious about keeping it original then take the block out and have the crack welded. I have a 51 Chevy A.D. and mechanical wise, it's all O.G. Even the motor is thee O.G. motor. At one time it threw a rod and who ever owned it at that time, had the hole welded and rebuilt the motor.
Don't give up on it.

 

I have used to get by in a pinch....

 

curious to know how it works

 

I have had real good luck using K-Seal for block and head water leaks. Blue plastic bottle with yellow label...

 

Kiss your heater core good by if ya got one....................

 

No heater core. This engine is until I can get the one from California. Maybe a few months and I will replace it.

 

I used Barrs in a radiator once, NEVER AGAIN, plugged everything up.

 

Ive used it, it worked for me to buy a few months until I could fix it properly.

 

If you are going to keep the vehicle, you should look into "s***ching pins" to repair the crack. If it is easily accessible, that should be the quickest permanent repair. Machine shops have been using them for many years with good success.

In my opinion the radiator repair additives should be used for getting home, then a real repair made.

~Alden

 

I had the same problem, clogged up the radiator just enough to overheat when it needed more water flow like on the highway. I had to flush out that mess.
What ****s is that the radiator leak was not even really bad to begin with.

If you can't get it pinned and repaired i would try the jb weld deal after cleaning it up real good, and run a low or no pressure cap.

 

I would try both suggested temp fixes. Drain the block and JB Weld over the crack. Sand it clean before applying. Refill and follow the directions on the chosen coolant sealer product. I know some require you run the motor till up to temp right after adding. Good Luck.

 

I've used alum a seal for a few yrs in a aluminum headed motor. Worked good till
it stopped working

 

The active ingredient is sodium silicate [water gl***] just like good old time K-W Block seal . Works best when used as directed,but years ago with a badly cracked flaty I ran the K-W all the time without draining. Every few months had to back flush the radiator. Helped that one of my old man's buddy's owned a radiator shop.

 

I also would use a little bit of Sodium Silicate(egg preserver) it will not clog heater cores and only seals where it meets air. I have seen it used to repair a leaking head gasket and radiator. It is a great temporary fix but I know one person who drove an OT car with a leaking head gasket for over a year before it finally went out.

 

One of the things that most people don't do when using Barrs is they do not crush all the granules in the can up before adding it in. Not sure about using it for a block but it works for small radiator leaks. So don't dump in the big chunks.

 

Oh, so now you tell me. Years ago I had a leak in the radiator of my 27 and used Barrs Leaks. When I tore the motor down eventually the cooling p***ages in the block, heads, and intake were packed solid with stuff that was as tough as JB Weld. When I took the radiator to the shop for reconditioning he asked me what the hell I had put in there.

But it did stop my leaks.

Don

 

I had a 216 with a cracked block that some previous owner sealed with some unknown substance. It worked VERY well. I rarely had to add any water.

 

So does it seal up what you dont want sealed up?


By the way today I did not see it heat up over 180 except once until the thermostat opened. And I only added water this morning.

 

Some flathead guys like Pepper!

 

I have used moroso ceramic block seal.They are all similar in how they work. could clog up some tubes in the radiator.but not always.if the crack is easy enough to get to, you could braze it in the car.not expensive.save it.dont throw out a fixable block.

 

I've used the liguid aluminum stuff in my SBC engine.
It's been tanked and freshly overhauled but still leaks up thru a head stud on the L.H. side when shut down.
Poured in a can of powdered aluminum in some sort of liquid stuff I purcased at Auto Zone 2 years ago and WORKS LIKE A CHARM.