I'm running into an issue with the stock brakes on my '50 B2B. When I bought the truck the brakes didn't work at all. I found the master cylinder was dry and after pulling the drums off I found that the rear adjusters weren't even attached to the backing plates. I repaired the obvious, bled the brakes and had an awesome pedal. But when I took the truck out the rear brakes would lock up. It would stop after I drove a bit, I chalked it up to humidity... I checked the adjustment and centered the shoes in the drums - it was still doing the same thing... Until yesterday. I drove the truck to get some goodies at 7-11 and the first stop I made the rears locked and wouldn't unlock... I hit the brakes again and there was a "popping" sensation and now the pedal almost goes to the floor and I can feel a pulsation like an out-of-round drum. And it's back to the intermittent rear lock-up... There still are no leaks and I can't see anything obvious. Is there anyone familiar with this style (non-servo) drum brakes that can offer any advise? I'd like to convert to disc and modern rear drums, but my accountant says we need to work on the house...
are the shoes on backwards? remember the smaller shoe goes forward, also the only time i have heard drums pop is when the shoes wear a groove into the raised pads that locate the shoes that come off the backing plate... should be something simple hardware or such.
The shoes are correct. Right now all the hardware looks okay, but I haven't got the rear drums back off yet. I had thought maybe I didn't get the rear axle nut seated when I pulled the drums, but everything loos okay from the outside. Thank you for the quick reply! - I was relocated from Kingman, AZ to Michigan 4 years ago... still trying to find a way back
this may sound counter-intuitive, but are the front brakes functioning/adjusted properly? I had a left front brake that locked up on occasion, and was told by an old-timer that the right front brake was not engaging properly...more effort was needed to brake because the right front was hanging up in the cylinder bore, so the left front would lock up because it took less effort to engage. These Pilot-House brakes have to be working 100% from the master cylinder to all four corners and adjusted properly or wheel lockup occurs.
Check the return port in the master cyl ( the smaller of the two holes in the reservoir, visible through the fill hole) for rust or debris. If the return port is blocked brake pressure builds up in the lines and cylinders and cant escape which locks up the wheels. Try to run a small stiff wire into the hole to clear it.
Working on it again tonight... Thank you for the input all! So far, I know the shoes are installed properly and all the hardware is intact. I fabbed a tool that works like the Dodge brake adjustment gauge that's shown in my manual so the brakes are adjusted evenly. I even re-bled just to be sure. I will check the master tonight. Thank you all again... This is my first real venture into Lockheed brakes. Trial by fire I guess. But if everything works right you never learn anything, right??
I'm not an expert but I kept two of these with huge (336 cubic inch) Dodge big truck flat heads running for a long time. Maybe I can be of help? P/M me at Normbc9@gmail.com Normbc9
Thank you! I bet I'll have some questions... I've been twisting wrenches for almost 30 years and all I've ever dealt with are normal duo-servo drum brakes and tractor-trailer stuff... It's funny to me how fiddly these are for being so simple. I had a '50 B2B in high school, but never touched the brakes... If it ain't broke, you know.
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